OX66 Winky Blinky Expertise Needed

[mwlake]

3000 RPM's isn't the magic number, it'll alarm higher and lower, I used that as a reference to being at a reasonable speed for a short period. Only one of the motors has the issue, the other one will stay at whatever RPM I was running at the time of the alarm until I throttle down.

I'll ohm test the sensors as you suggested earlier. I'll check the kill switch too. Like you, I don't think they are the issue but I'll keep at it until the service call in two weeks,

 

[DennisG01]

I think you might have missed my earlier post, Winky didn't display an error code for the alarm ( it was hooked up when the alarm went off but read normal. I'm all about not guessing which is why I bought the tool. Only codes it picked up were "normal" and #33 " ignition timing being corrected when starting a cod engine" Thanks.

Nowhere in your previous posts did you mention you monitored the Winky in real time when the alarm sounds. But it seems you mentioned it in a latter post.

Just to be clear... DID YOU monitor in real time and find that there was no code?

IF the computer is putting the engine into limp mode there WILL be a code. If not,

-- The Winky is defective
-- You hooked it up wrong
-- It is not going into a commanded limp mode

It has to be one of those.

Based on some latter posts it sounds like your definition of "limp mode" is when the engine SHUTS OFF. As Seasick pointed out, that is NOT "limp mode". And that would explain why you aren't getting a code.

Disconnect a kill switch lead to deactivate it from functioning. See what happens.

FYI... if you get a service manual, it has the proper way to test all of your sensors. But that's for a later time as based on what you've been writing (and assuming you did the real time monitoring and got no codes) it seems your problem is elsewhere.

 

[mwlake]

Yes, Alarm was monitored in real time. Indicated 'normal' and did not change when alarm went off. Will give the kill switch suggestion a try and also ohm test sensors. Thanks again for for the reply.

 

[DennisG01]

OK, thanks for clarification.

Clarification on what you mean by "limp mode"? Or a better description of what happens to the engine?

 

[seasick]

I wouldn't spend time on ohming the sensors. f they were bad, an alarm would be posted. The info is a tad different now. The even is not limited to a specific rpm and the event is not in limp mode.

Confirm that when the motor shuts down, the alarm horn is blarring. I have to research but I think there is alarm horn for each motor. If so, that would imply that the motor with the issue still had power, eliminating a battery wiring issue. I need to see if I have a wiring diagram for the ignition controlls and alarm unit/kill switch

 

[mwlake]

Nowhere in your previous posts did you mention you monitored the Winky in real time when the alarm sounds. But it seems you mentioned it in a latter post.

Just to be clear... DID YOU monitor in real time and find that there was no code?

IF the computer is putting the engine into limp mode there WILL be a code. If not,

-- The Winky is defective
-- You hooked it up wrong
-- It is not going into a commanded limp mode

It has to be one of those.

Based on some latter posts it sounds like your definition of "limp mode" is when the engine SHUTS OFF. As Seasick pointed out, that is NOT "limp mode". And that would explain why you aren't getting a code.

Disconnect a kill switch lead to deactivate it from functioning. See what happens.

FYI... if you get a service manual, it has the proper way to test all of your sensors. But that's for a later time as based on what you've been writing (and assuming you did the real time monitoring and got no codes) it seems your problem is elsewhere.

Dennis, sorry for doubling up on my replies. I think I may have already eliminated the kill switch as the source when I bypassed the engine harness. Someone lent me a control box that I plugged directly to the engine ( I wanted to confirm there were no shorts in the wiring between the gauges/ignition and motor. Do you agree or would you still do disconnect a kill switch lead? Thanks.

 

[mwlake]

I wouldn't spend time on ohming the sensors. f they were bad, an alarm would be posted. The info is a tad different now. The even is not limited to a specific rpm and the event is not in limp mode.

Confirm that when the motor shuts down, the alarm horn is blarring. I have to research but I think there is alarm horn for each motor. If so, that would imply that the motor with the issue still had power, eliminating a battery wiring issue. I need to see if I have a wiring diagram for the ignition controls and alarm unit/kill switch

Thanks Seasick, yes the alarm was definitely sounding, key was on but motor had shut off. It isn't limp mode like I've had in other, separatrate situations when oil happened to be low because the motor was still running then.

I just asked Dennis if he would agree that I've eliminated the kill switch as the issue when I bypassed the engine harness. Someone lent me a control box that I plugged directly to the engine ( I wanted to confirm there were no shorts in the wiring between the gauges/ignition and motor). Do you agree? Thanks!

 

[seasick]

What is the 'control box' supposed to replace or bypass?

Let's take a different approach.
If the engine dies instantly, fuel starvation may not be the issue. Starvation usually leads to stuttering first. An exception would be a failure of the ECU to command spark In that case loss of spark could explain your failure but you would have to loose all spark.
Loss of a power feed to the ECU could cause it to shut down of course but I still don't understand how the problem only occurs at speed and also why you can get going again after a few seconds.

If you run the boat on one motor only, the one with the issue, can you replicate the problem? If you can and that motor dies, how do you reset it and clear the alarm? If it dies and you shift into neutral quickly and try to start does it crank and start, crank and no start, nothing?

I think I am running out of ideas

 

[enfish]

I still don't understand how the problem only occurs at speed and also why you can get going again after a few seconds.

When I was in college, I had a car with a motor that would randomly shut off while driving at 60+ mph, but would start right back up after about 10 seconds. I got good at putting the clutch to the floor, coasting for those 10 seconds, then popping the clutch while still in 5th gear to start it back up again. The issue ended up being the fuel pump relay would get hot and break contact occasionally. I'm guessing there could be something similar going on here. Some electronic component overheats when the engine is under load at higher RPMs (thus working harder and hotter) and stops working, but begins working again once it cools off. I completely agree with you that it's an electronic issue since it happens instantly and fixes itself very quickly.

 

[mwlake]

What is the 'control box' supposed to replace or bypass?

Let's take a different approach.
If the engine dies instantly, fuel starvation may not be the issue. Starvation usually leads to stuttering first. An exception would be a failure of the ECU to command spark In that case loss of spark could explain your failure but you would have to loose all spark.
Loss of a power feed to the ECU could cause it to shut down of course but I still don't understand how the problem only occurs at speed and also why you can get going again after a few seconds.

If you run the boat on one motor only, the one with the issue, can you replicate the problem? If you can and that motor dies, how do you reset it and clear the alarm? If it dies and you shift into neutral quickly and try to start does it crank and start, crank and no start, nothing?

I think I am running out of ideas

Appreciate all the time you've taken to help me troubleshoot. I switched gears and started on fuel as the cause. Changed the VST filter and the cup filter today but when I turned the key to the on position I couldn't hear the pump kick on. It does for the motor so I think the culprit may be the high pressure fuel pump. Checking the manual to see if it has a in-line fuse as well checking any and all connections.

 

[DennisG01]

I didn't realize when you said earlier that you bypassed a harness that you meant the MAIN engine harness. Yes, I agree with you that that would have eliminated the kill switch as a variable.

The engine is fuel injected. It won't start at all if the hi-pressure pump is not working.

 

[hooked on Grady]

so I have a thought based on an experience I had. Did you try taking temp readings of all the cylinders of the problem engine? see if the uppermost cylinders are warmer. I found my cut out to limp mode ended up being because one of the screws holding down the impeller plate was stripped and letting some water pressure escape therefore the upper cylinders were not being cooled properly. once I figured that out and heli coiled that bolt the problem was solved. I had 2 different marine mechanics look at it and neither one identified the problem. I do not know jack _ about engines but I will figure things out given enough time!!!

 

[mwlake]

Problem solved, special thanks to DennisGo1 and Seasick for their multiple responses and to others that took the time to respond. Turned out to be a low pressure fuel pump and the VST electric fuel pump. I feel a little bit stupid for assuming it was limp mode when the alarm went off. I confused the buzzer sounding when the motor stalled with limp mode but it was stalling due to fuel starvation.

Onward!

 

[DennisG01]

First and foremost - excellent - you're back on the water having fun!

If I understand correctly, the engine was not dropping RPM or shutting off light a light switch... instead it was stumbling or bogging down? Yup, that's fuel starvation. I'm curious if you replaced the LP pumps first and still had the problem and THEN replaced the HP pump? Reason I ask is that if a HP pump is bad, it wouldn't start at all. However, failing (usually the diaphragms) LP pumps would cause this EXACT problem as they would struggle to fill the VST tank and as the tank got low the engine would exhibit symptoms of running out of gas (which, technically, it is).