Hello, I’m new, first post … just got a 2007 Tournament 225 with a Yamaha 250. When I go to flush the engine, even when it’s only been in idle warming up, the water that comes out the pee hole burns my hand. The boat stays in salt water full time as I live on a bridgeless barrier island. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Pee hole water very hot Yamaha 250
- Thread starter BellaLoco
- Start date
What do gauges read for temp? If this is a new to you boat with questionable maintenance then first thing at least replace the thermostats. That'll also give you a peek inside the engine. A good flush with salt-away wouldn't hurt.
How are you flushing the engine? re you using the flush port?
Is the motor running?
If the motor is not running does the telltake spit out a decent flow of water?
Is the motor running?
If the motor is not running does the telltake spit out a decent flow of water?
Be aware that 140 degrees will burn your hand. The Yamaha thermostats should begin to open at 145-148 degrees, if I remember correctly. Might be worth pulling out the stats and testing them to make sure they are not corroded and frozen closed.
The motor has had very good maintenance and had just received the 500 hour maintenance just before I bought her and I have those records. I flush with salt away every couple weeks but flush with water after almost every use. Since the boat stays in the water I have to flush it in the water with the motor tilted up and the engine not running but I make sure the engine is warmed up. I asked the last maintenance guy about it and he says the heat is OK … but my last boat did not get nearly as hot so I’m leery. My last motor was a Yamaha 150 so not nearly as big of an engine. My last boat was a tournament 192 that I loved dearly but hurricane Ian put an end to her unfortunately.
Thank you one and all by the way! I will check the thermostat the next time I run her. I am not engine savvy as I’m just a girl who happens to live on an island but I do my best to maintain my boat but if it gets too technical I have to spend money to pay someone but I try to learn as much as I can and do as much as I can myself.
Don't sell yourself short - you are NOT "just a girl" 
If a guy can do it I'm sure a gal can!
It does sound like it's too hot. But it may not mean that the ENGINE is too hot. The pee hole is a slightly different circuit and it's possible that the circuit is slightly clogged which could, in theory, cause the water to be hotter as it spends more time "inside". The rectifier, for example.
But, yes, a t-stat that isn't opening enough could certainly also be a problem. Use an IR gun or temp probe with a multi-meter and see what temps you have at the t-stats... although I think for this issue, you would focus on the port side since I think that's the side the engine pees from? If the physical temp at the t-stat is too hot, then pull them out and check and or replace. If the temp is good, I'd leave that alone for now.
If you don't have a service manual (which would be a good idea) google for something like Yamaha F225 cooling system diagram. You should be able to find a water flow diagram. Check for flow at various spots.
FYI, you can flush the motor with it still tilted down. I don't know if it flushes "not as good" with the engine tilted up, though, so maybe it doesn't matter.
So... "crazy beautiful" or "pretty crazy"?
If a guy can do it I'm sure a gal can!It does sound like it's too hot. But it may not mean that the ENGINE is too hot. The pee hole is a slightly different circuit and it's possible that the circuit is slightly clogged which could, in theory, cause the water to be hotter as it spends more time "inside". The rectifier, for example.
But, yes, a t-stat that isn't opening enough could certainly also be a problem. Use an IR gun or temp probe with a multi-meter and see what temps you have at the t-stats... although I think for this issue, you would focus on the port side since I think that's the side the engine pees from? If the physical temp at the t-stat is too hot, then pull them out and check and or replace. If the temp is good, I'd leave that alone for now.
If you don't have a service manual (which would be a good idea) google for something like Yamaha F225 cooling system diagram. You should be able to find a water flow diagram. Check for flow at various spots.
FYI, you can flush the motor with it still tilted down. I don't know if it flushes "not as good" with the engine tilted up, though, so maybe it doesn't matter.
So... "crazy beautiful" or "pretty crazy"?
100% agree - and it would definitely help to clarify things for the rest of us. However, I believe she has some prior experience to compare against. BUT... you're saying that 150* is OK for this? Meaning, doesn't that seem way too hot for something that doesn't go through the engine? Unless I'm mistaken about that part?
I don’t have an IR gun or temp probe but I DO have a meat thermometer. I will try to run that test and get a temperature reading when I can and will let you know. I also have the outboard manual and will see what I can learn. It will be several days before I head back to the mainland so stay tuned. Right now she is clean, flushed and covered. I’m also still working around the clock trying to repair my home so very little spare time but I’m much more fortunate than many others on the island.
The name means both … it’s “pretty crazy“ living on a “crazy beautiful“ island. Thank you again everyone!
The name means both … it’s “pretty crazy“ living on a “crazy beautiful“ island. Thank you again everyone!
A non contact ( IR) thermometer can be had for $30 or so and is a very handy tool for those who do some of their own maintenance. You can get one at the box stores or Harbor freight. The more expensive models have some hand features and can be more accurate but really are necessary for basic boat work.
Using one of these tools allows you to measure the head temperatures on boat banks so that a comparison can be made. A stuck open or closed t-stat is pretty easy to identify. A bad water pump may show up as higher than normal temps on both banks. A stuck open poppet valve can also be identified by checking temps at idle and and speed.
If you point an IR thermometer at a thermostat housing, it's should read less than or equal to the t-stat spec. You can do that test at the dock with the motor down, the cowling off and the motor running.