Permanent A/C installation....anyone tackled this?

Grady678

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 23, 2008
Messages
101
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Location
Atlanta / Hilton Head, SC
Have no choice but to install this before summer on a Marlin that came without the most needed component for my needs. Any thoughts if anyone has completed this installation on 'any' boat. Here are my biggest questions that scare the bejesus out of me:

1. Do I need a saltwater 'intake' line for a SMALL system?
2. For the discharge line...can I tap into any existing overboard drain and can it be physically above the unit?
3. Would this install in the cabin or is it too loud?
4. Would you dare run 2 separate vents to the cockpit for those ridiculously hot days?

Thanks for any and all Feedback! 8)
 

BobP

GreatGrady Captain
Joined
Apr 27, 2005
Messages
4,744
Reaction score
6
Points
38
Location
Long Island, NY
Model
Sailfish
It's a straight forward DIYer job, perhaps $2K for materials.

If you are a DIYer, I'd start with going to Grady dealer and asking if you can take a look into the A/C compartment and why, bring a camera and take measurements with ruler, make a sketch, see where outlets are, where return grill is, thermostat, etc. Will need a breaker position on 120VAC panel, and you also need a SW pump special for AC, and a filter in intake water line, see where Grady located it.

You already have a thru hull at the keel for the head, do another one on other side, and you have thru hull drains out the side, so another one not too high.

Good DIY installation manual can be found on internet for MARINE AIR M6, just google it.

Decide if you need reverse cycle for heat or not, and direction of outlet air fitting. Drain condensate into bilge.
Good thing about the Marlin it has plenty of space for unit.
Pick right BTU rating.

If are not a DIYer, add $1K plus to price.
 

Grady678

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 23, 2008
Messages
101
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Location
Atlanta / Hilton Head, SC
Thanks Bob!!!

Understood everything except for the thru hull "on the other side of the keel". Are you saying I have to drill another hole in the Hull for saltwater intake? Couldn't I just tap into the Head intake?
 

ahill

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 13, 2006
Messages
806
Reaction score
2
Points
0
Location
Manatee Pocket, FL
My ac was instaleed by dealer. An additionalthru hull is required. If you trailer be careful where you put the pickup so it doesn't interfere with crossmember.
My condensate drains into the shower sump and is pumped out thru the sump system.
 

Grady678

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 23, 2008
Messages
101
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Location
Atlanta / Hilton Head, SC
ahill said:
My ac was instaleed by dealer. An additionalthru hull is required. If you trailer be careful where you put the pickup so it doesn't interfere with crossmember.
My condensate drains into the shower sump and is pumped out thru the sump system.

Why another tap into the hull? I already have 3 and feel this is way too many for going 100 miles offshore with over night.
 

ocnslr

GreatGrady Captain
Joined
Jan 31, 2005
Messages
1,907
Reaction score
43
Points
48
Location
Fort Myers Beach, FL
Model
Islander
I installed a Mermaid Marine Air 6,500-BTU Reverse-Cycle A/C unit on our 2002 Islander.

No factory option for A/C on an Islander, so I had to figure it out for myself.

My responses to your questions:
1. Do I need a saltwater 'intake' line for a SMALL system?
I installed a separate thruhull, with seacock and strainer.
2. For the discharge line...can I tap into any existing overboard drain and can it be physically above the unit?
Mine is just a bit above the unit, and I did install a separate discharge fitting.
3. Would this install in the cabin or is it too loud?
Installed under the galley furniture. No problem with noise.
4. Would you dare run 2 separate vents to the cockpit for those ridiculously hot days?
In my opinion, NO. The unit capacity would have to be significantly larger for this heat load, and still might be marginal up there.

PM me if you want to chat about any details.

Brian
 

Grady678

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 23, 2008
Messages
101
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Location
Atlanta / Hilton Head, SC
ahill said:
Tapping into an existing thr hull may cause the ac pump to draw air and damage the system.



Ah ha......now that makes sense and explains why everyone is suggesting the tap. I can now stop smashing my head. Thx!
 

Offshore24NJ

Active Member
Joined
Sep 15, 2009
Messages
37
Reaction score
0
Points
6
Location
NJ
ahill said:
My ac was instaleed by dealer. An additionalthru hull is required. If you trailer be careful where you put the pickup so it doesn't interfere with crossmember.
My condensate drains into the shower sump and is pumped out thru the sump system.

Everything everyone is talking about seems like a huge headache. I love doing stuff myself and know how to do stuff Im a general contractor but may I ask what you paid the dealer to do it? I have a 94' Marlin and am looking at putting A/C in it before it goes in the water for the summer. Then after its in getting a generator cause it has neither of those options.
 

BobP

GreatGrady Captain
Joined
Apr 27, 2005
Messages
4,744
Reaction score
6
Points
38
Location
Long Island, NY
Model
Sailfish
A LI dealer I talked to at the NY boat show quoted installation costs at 1000 to 1500 bucks depending on boat, plus materials/kits.

Depending on where you buy the A/C and kits, may be as much as $3K for A/C plus kits plus SW pump.
Labor above is in addition.

- in case you don't get a reply
------------------------------------------------------------

For the DIYer only, these are the pre-season jobs we like doing (some of us live for doing - like me! )

Just make sure on the smaller boats there is adequate room for unit before you buy it, unless you don't want it hidden.
Units are very compact but looks can be deceiving once inside boat. They do make a 5K and 3.5K BTU unit also.

And get the outlet duct orientation correct (L, R, UP). On the dometics -have built in adjustibility, to some degree. Dometic is buying out everybody, like CruseAir and Marine Airr, all the same now, doing the same with refrigs and heads.
Cornering the market kills competition and development while raising the profit margin at our expense.
Watch out for these guys.

Took me several hours to make the determination the 6.5K Mermaid or 6K dometic would fit in my Sailfish, in a boat not designed for it to fit. The 8K Dometic is same size as their 6K unit. I would build and glass in a floor for mine and perhaps box it in to lessen noise, no problem for me. Plenty of 1/2 ply at home and glass and resin!

And plenty of latex gloves!

OCNSLR Brian was very helpful as I called on him, greatfull !
 

BobP

GreatGrady Captain
Joined
Apr 27, 2005
Messages
4,744
Reaction score
6
Points
38
Location
Long Island, NY
Model
Sailfish
By the way, if one doesn't want to install thru hulls or think that's the hard part, don't bother tackling job.

I doubt the A/C unit will be returnable for a refund.
 

Offshore24NJ

Active Member
Joined
Sep 15, 2009
Messages
37
Reaction score
0
Points
6
Location
NJ
BobP said:
By the way, if one doesn't want to install thru hulls or think that's the hard part, don't bother tackling job.

I doubt the A/C unit will be returnable for a refund.

Im deff. all out for getting it. Its just a matter of putting the through hull fittings in that makes me nervous. Would you recommend a unit for my 280 Marlin? Also eventually I was looking at doing a Generator I saw the manual for it and it has the possibility for both would you know if the unit that they use is available for purchase anywhere?
 

BobP

GreatGrady Captain
Joined
Apr 27, 2005
Messages
4,744
Reaction score
6
Points
38
Location
Long Island, NY
Model
Sailfish
Then it's best to contract out the two thru-hulls, and watch the work being done to learn. I can do a step by step of the thruhull if you want, the way I would do it.

I recommend you find some installers and ask what they recommend for the Marlin, they may have done a few and can offer photos too. The Marlin has plenty of room for an A/C. The installer can recommend where to spot the two thru hulls and vents.

I also recommend you get the Mermaid Marine install manual off the website and study it, it has very good general instructions so you can see the install process - useful for any brand.

If I do it this season, going to be reverse cycle 6 or 6.5 kBTU with electronic control module to provide variable speed fan.
 

BobP

GreatGrady Captain
Joined
Apr 27, 2005
Messages
4,744
Reaction score
6
Points
38
Location
Long Island, NY
Model
Sailfish
I figure if I keep this going, will not feel the cold up here!

Come on Spring! Days are getting longer !

I may go with the 8K dometic unit since it's the same size as the 6K, and not much different in price, depending if I can get a hose / vent up to the bridge.
 

wahoo33417

GreatGrady Captain
Joined
Feb 28, 2005
Messages
1,233
Reaction score
240
Points
63
Location
West Palm Beach, FL
Model
Sailfish
Just to add a thought to this old thread. Seemed to be much concern about adding through hulls. An option for us was to use the holding tank's overboard discharge. We never once used it and had no intention of using it. So it became the cooling water intake source for our Mermaid 6500 btu unit. (We use a marina pump out station instead.)

Same is true if you never use your raw water wash down or live well through hulls.

The second through hull is actually just a simple discharge point above the water line. Plenty of You Tube videos on how to do these well. And even if you do chip a bit of gel coat, the lip of the tube covers at least 1/4” more than the hole and you’re going to lather it up with 3M 4200 anyway.