Did this project on my 265 and wanted to share on my new to me 330, thought might help others at tackling on there own.
Pulled engines with automotive engine hoist and mounted them on automotive engine stands which worked well. 2 person job for sure.
The original bang cap was aluminum and rather corroded. Removal revealed a fairly well sealed transom, some scrapping and cleaning with acetone. Had cap custom made out of polished 304 stainless .074 thick 1 3/16“ x 1 3/16” wide, I fitted the cap and end caps prior to attaching. I used 3m 4200 liberally on all surface and clamped in place with spring clamps, the only screws are a single vertical screw at each end that is covered by the plastic end caps. No other screw hold cap just 4200 adhesive.
I made custom spacers to space engine of transom, to avoid the crushing of the bang cap as it had done on the aluminum. I used 1/4” king starboard material, made pattern off the engine mount. I drilled the mounting holes then put a 45* chamfer on both sides of hole, this would allow the sealer to be forced into the bolt area when engine was hung and torqued up. T to 38 lb ft.
Transom drains where replace by 2 piece plastic with a serrated interlock made by T-H marine supplies sealed with 4200 again liked the lip better than brass tubes and figured they would give more if needed, replace the screw in scupper flaps with a nice product made by seaworthtyinnovations. Made of 316 stainless fit right over the lip of the transom tube and attach with a special 3m tape, I sealed holes with 3m 5200 although they clamp the 3m tape will seal existing holes, better safe than sorry. They look great and really stuck well.
Sanded and painted transom will engines were off, as well as sand clean and paint engine brackets, used interlux 33 on the aluminum engine parts.
Here is link to photos,
https://photos.app.goo.gl/s6gRoCE4VMVgvNs2A
Pulled engines with automotive engine hoist and mounted them on automotive engine stands which worked well. 2 person job for sure.
The original bang cap was aluminum and rather corroded. Removal revealed a fairly well sealed transom, some scrapping and cleaning with acetone. Had cap custom made out of polished 304 stainless .074 thick 1 3/16“ x 1 3/16” wide, I fitted the cap and end caps prior to attaching. I used 3m 4200 liberally on all surface and clamped in place with spring clamps, the only screws are a single vertical screw at each end that is covered by the plastic end caps. No other screw hold cap just 4200 adhesive.
I made custom spacers to space engine of transom, to avoid the crushing of the bang cap as it had done on the aluminum. I used 1/4” king starboard material, made pattern off the engine mount. I drilled the mounting holes then put a 45* chamfer on both sides of hole, this would allow the sealer to be forced into the bolt area when engine was hung and torqued up. T to 38 lb ft.
Transom drains where replace by 2 piece plastic with a serrated interlock made by T-H marine supplies sealed with 4200 again liked the lip better than brass tubes and figured they would give more if needed, replace the screw in scupper flaps with a nice product made by seaworthtyinnovations. Made of 316 stainless fit right over the lip of the transom tube and attach with a special 3m tape, I sealed holes with 3m 5200 although they clamp the 3m tape will seal existing holes, better safe than sorry. They look great and really stuck well.
Sanded and painted transom will engines were off, as well as sand clean and paint engine brackets, used interlux 33 on the aluminum engine parts.
Here is link to photos,
https://photos.app.goo.gl/s6gRoCE4VMVgvNs2A
