Pre Purchase Question

[Patrick M]

I am currently looking at a 2000 model 225 Tournament and the boat overall is in fair to good condition for its age. However, on the transom there is significant rusting from the flange area of the outboard rigging hose and the swim platform support bar. Not to mention up under the Grady Drive bracket there is what appears to be rusty water that has drained down the back of the transom from the area above the swim platform. I would assume this was generated from the bolts holding the platform to the transom combined with the run off from the rigging hose. I did make note of the fact that the sealant between the platform and transom was in terrible condition and would need to be immediately cleaned and redone.

Is this something to be concerned with as far as water penetration into the transom core? My initial impression of the boat was that the transom was solid as I had the ability to feel around both sides and visually inspect the inside as well. However, my inspection is about a week out and just trying to figure if the boat is even worth moving forward on.

 

[Bloodweiser]

20 year old boat. Probably normal. Look forward to replacing all the hardware. And enjoy.. I would be more concerned with motor condition and hull.

 

[Patrick M]

Yeah, I am planning on replacing all of the thru hulls and hardware on the boat. 20 years is a long time for that hardware. As far as the motor and hull go, everything appears to be in decent shape. We'll see after the inspection...

 

[Fishtales]

At 20 years, there are going to be maintenance things. You can remove the parts, clean well seal up with 4200 and splash it.

 

[Parthery]

That’s nothing more than cheap hardware. I’m doing the same on my ‘99 225.

There are several good rust stain removal products on the market that will take those marks right off.

If everything checks out go boating and do those projects as you go along.

 

[Sparkdog118]

It looks like the hardware to me also. Could be 302 stainless and not 316. Hull cleaner and a little compound will fix the stains after the hardware is replaced.

 

[drbatts]

Should clean up with a little hull cleaner. I'm always amazed that someone would sell a big money item like a boat without at least cleaning it up first.

 

[Patrick M]

I can attest that this is the norm throughout my search thus far. It was shocking to say the least to see the condition in which sellers present their boats and then expect to see top dollar. Being through the process before I just assumed that cleaning the boat to where it looks as new as possible was the expectation, guess I got that wrong!

 

[DennisG01]

That rusting (minor, as others have said) is typically due to crevice corrosion. SS will self-protect itself from corroding, but only if it has an adequate air supply. This is why SS is not allowed below the waterline, in favor of the more durable bronze. You can Google for crevice corrosion, but essentially, there is a tiny gap that has developed between the hardware and the hull that retains moisture. Clean, loosen, reseal, tighten, go boating.

 

[seasick]

It is not necessarily cheap hardware. Stainless steel in the presence of water but little air will 'rust'. Usually, all that is need is to remove the bolts or screws, clean the stains Something with oxalic acid works well, like Mary Kate On & Off), squeeze some 4200 into the hole, reinstall the bolts using 4200 to coat the threads and underside of the bolt heads or washers. For these apps, 5200 works fine also and you will be able to remove the screws or bolts in the future if needed. The goal is to prevent moisture from getting under the fittings

 

[Holokai]

That rusting (minor, as others have said) is typically due to crevice corrosion. SS will self-protect itself from corroding, but only if it has an adequate air supply. This is why SS is not allowed below the waterline, in favor of the more durable bronze. You can Google for crevice corrosion, but essentially, there is a tiny gap that has developed between the hardware and the hull that retains moisture. Clean, loosen, reseal, tighten, go boating.

This man knows what he is talking about.

The rust can also be from tools used to install the hardware or any impurities/contamination introduced during installation. My friend works on high end yachts on the West Coast and has some stainless tools he uses so the hardware doesn’t end up with surface rust.

I can attest that this is the norm throughout my search thus far. It was shocking to say the least to see the condition in which sellers present their boats and then expect to see top dollar. Being through the process before I just assumed that cleaning the boat to where it looks as new as possible was the expectation, guess I got that wrong!

I’d value the structural integrity of the transom and age/condition of the engine(s) over cosmetics. If you’re throwing down top dollar for a used boat less than 5 years old I can see cosmetics as a significant factor but for anything of the vintage (2000) I’d look for a solid transom and recent repower.

Hope the survey works out and you end up with a new boat soon!

 

[seasick]

I am not sure this was mentioned but if all you do is clean up the rust stains, the rust will come back. That may take a week or a few years but you know what they say; "Rust never sleeps"

The comment about stainless steel tools is a new one to me. Granted, I haven't worked on high end yachts but I also haven't see many(or any) stainless sockets, screwdrivers, hex wrenches etc. Stainless is not nearly as strong as good old steel. I don't think is would make a strong tool.

 

[SmokyMtnGrady]

They call it STAIN-LESS not stain proof for a reason.. lol. That is a good hull and you will enjoy that boat a great deal.

 

[Patrick M]

I imagine that I would have if the seller didn't pull it from the market.... the search continues!

 

[Holokai]

The comment about stainless steel tools is a new one to me. Granted, I haven't worked on high end yachts but I also haven't see many(or any) stainless sockets, screwdrivers, hex wrenches etc. Stainless is not nearly as strong as good old steel. I don't think is would make a strong tool.

Strength isn’t an issue as the tools can be heat treated to improve hardness as I’m assuming you’re referring to galling when using tools/fasteners of similar composition.

There’s a market of people who will pay the money for those tools (not your everyday boater or DIYer) though they are not cheap or commonly available due to their cost. These are also the people who put SeaKeepers into their yachts so you can imagine what measures are taken to minimize or eliminate rust...

Edit: I believe he uses some of the smaller Wera screwdrivers. Close to $10/ea

 

[Bloodweiser]

too bad this deal didnt work out for you.. still some nice boats on this site for sale.

 

[Fishtales]

just like women... plenty more out there. look till you find the right one.