Problem with Vacuflush 2002 330

[jip40]

Recently developed 2 problems which are probably related.

1st problem - Vacuflush runs between flushes - it runs for about 4-5 seconds an then stops - duration between startups ranges from 1 1/2 minutes to 6 minutes with the majority in 3-4 minute range.

2nd problem - water is very slowly draining from the bowl, which I assume means a bad seal - the amount of water in the bowl doesn't eliminate the vacuflush running - when the bowl is empty the vacuflush runs about every 1 1/2 - 2 minutes still only runs for 4-5 seconds.

Even with head switch on 12 volt panel off the bowl runs dry, but that could be because of the residual vacuum in the system.

I know where the panel to get to the vacuflush vacuum and tank is but I am clueless about how to take the toilet apart to get to the ball valve seal. I can't tell what model Sealand toilet I have because I can't find the label with the info and the dimensions don't match any of the models in the 500 plus/1000/760 series but it looks like the one on the cover of owner's manual. The cover around the base does not have any bolts or screws holding it together, at least that I can see. I took some photos of toilet but I have not uploaded any before and have to figure out how to do it.

There is a Vacuflush Maintenance Kit mentioned in the manual that has the seals, duckbill valves, water valve and vacuum tester. Have any of you used this kit and how difficult was it to do the install?

 

[georgemjr]

I have been through every inch of that system. Luckily for you, i don't believe you will need to. It is probably just a very small piece of toilet paper or something like that on the seal in the toilet. This prevents the seal from sealing completely. Because of this, the suction slowly drains the bowl and the vacuum is slowly lost. As the vacuum is lost, the pump kicks on to bring it back to the correct vacuum pressure. Depress the flush paddle with your foot, opening up the toilet ball. then wipe the black seal very carefully. this should solve the problem. I have, on occasion, had to repeat that process a couple times until I cleared whatever was preventing the complete seal. It should be that simple. It has been for me, multiple times, in the past.

 

[jip40]

Georgmjr

That will be my first project in the am - I will let you know the results.

Thanks for the suggestion

 

[jip40]

Georgemjr

You the man. That was the solution to the problem. You sure saved me a lot of time and $ too.

The first time I did it, the vacuum pump didn't seem to come on but after an hour or so I noticed that the water level had gone down a little. To put it in prospective, it probable slowed the water loss by 90%.

I did it a second time - both times using my finger as I wasn't sure if I could use something a little more abrasive - and the water level seems to be holding after a couple of hours.

One down and many other little things to work on.

Thanks again

 

[jip40]

Just when I thought I was home free I used the toilet and everything functioned well except that the vacuum pump will not shut off unless I flip the Head Switch on the 12 Volt panel.

It seems like it is determined to have me perform maintenance on the entire system. I think I read that if the pump runs continually it may be an issue with the duckbill valves. I do think that over time it seems that the vacuum pump has gradually been taking longer to build up pressure.

Georgemjr where do you suggest I begin

 

[georgemjr]

when I got my boat, the head was not working correctly, much like yours. I took it apart and found the duck bill valves were okay (I understand that the can sometimes be flipped inside out). The problem with mine wasmthat one of the orings that seal some of the plumbing had slipped out of its groove and therefore, the pump could never reach the necessary vacuum to shut off. All these items are fairlymaccesable and above the actual tank, so it is pretty easy and not "messy." I eventually discovered what I believe to have been the cause. The vent line was clogged. i would recommend you checkmthat too. I assume the previous owner filled the head up too far and some of the waste got into the vent line. I believe that this wasmthe cause. The access is easy, 4 covered screws on the starboard side of the aft bunk. i think I have a schematic somewhere I could scan if you do not or caan't find one on the internet, but it will take me a day or two to dig up. BTW, i put the oring back in its groove, cleared the vent line and it has been perfect ever since. I bought spare orings which I keep on board, but have never needed them.

 

[jip40]

Georgemjr

Things went from bad to worse. Monday morning I took the starboard panel off in the mid berth and saw that everything was pretty accessible - I took photos of the whole unit and many of the components.

I flushed the head a couple of times and heard a low "pop" in the mid berth I looked and saw a fine spray coming from the top of the unit in a connector from the toilet to the tank. Immediately threw the head switch & it stopped. The tank gauge registered mid level full but I wondered if the tank actually was full could the pressure cause the problem. I moved the boat to the pump out station and it seemed to to pump out more fluid than I remember pumping out before. I ran fresh water into the tank & pumped it out until the water was quite clear.

I then went down to the head and proceeded to flush it a few times - each time the vacuum pump came on and shut off normally. Thinking everything was OK I went back up to find that I hadn't screwed in the pump out plug and each time I flushed, the water didn't go into the tank but came out onto the deck. I went back down and flushed about five times and then went back up top and when I removed the pump out plug the water came out under pressure causing the flow to reach about 2" above the deck. I pumped it out again and got virtually nothing.

Next I went back down (putting in the pump out plug first) and flushed normally 3 times - the first time the vacuum pump shut off after 30 seconds - the second time it took 50 seconds and the third time it was still running at 60 second when I threw the breaker switch. I went back up top and when I removed the waste plug the water came out but not under too much pressure.

I am back in Atlanta and the boat is is the marina barn six hours away. I brought all the manuals and photos back with me and plan to contact customer service - if you have experience with them I would appreciate your comments. If you don't mind sharing your email address with me it might make it easier to communicate as I get info and pick your brain. My name is Jeff Pollack and my email address is jip1940@yahoo.com


Regards

 

[georgemjr]

I would recommend starting with what I previously posted, making sure the vent line is clear. It sounds like the pressure has no where to go as it tries to create the vacuum in the tank. If the holding tank is filled too high, debris can get in and clog the vent line. It is what happened to mine. Because there was nowhere for the pressure to go, it ended up dislodging an oring seal. I put the oring back in its groove, cleared the vent line, and have been trouble free for 4 years. Feel free to respond to me here or if you prefer my personal email is georgemjr@ hotmail.com.

 

[REBThunderroad]

I had a major issue with my vacuflush or at least diagnosing my my vaccuflush due to having high water in my bilge (long story). Basically water came up over the holding tank and fried the computer and sensors. However I spent more hours than any one would want to taking apart the system and trying to figure it out get it work correctly. This led me to Bill Friedman at Dometic 800-321-9886. He has ben the company's trouble shoot guy for over 20 years. I bet he can dial you in real fast.

Rob

2005 Marlin 300

 

[jip40]

Thanks for the continued advice & suggestions. Having been through similar situations I think you can both appreciate my concern in solving this as quickly as possible.

Yesterday I contacted customer service at SeaLand. The rep listened patiently as I took her through the events listed above. She then told me that I needed to change out the bowl seals and the 4 duck bill valves, the boat is 12 years old (I have had it for 3 years) and I'm not aware of any work done on the system. She said that if those components are not functioning properly the whole system could be impaired.

I am not convinced that the issues are directly related to those components but I need a place to start so I ordered replacement parts and they will be delivered to my boat. I will have the mechanic that services the boat install the parts and see where we go from there.

REBThunderroad, I was a bit confused with you mentioning Dometic for support until I checked and saw that SeaLand is part of that organization. I appreciate the contact at Dometic, I'm sure that he will provide much better advice than the "generic" rep passed on to me.

I will let you know what Lee (my mechanic) finds.

Best regards,

 

[REBThunderroad]

Good luck - I understand you sense of urgency!

 

[jip40]

Problem fixed and it appears that the Cust Svc rep I spoke with was correct.

My mechanic called this morning and said everything is good to go. He said that he repaired the leak I caused, as well as replacing the 4 duck bill valves and the 2 toilet bowl ring seals.

He said once that was done everything functioned normally and waited for 25 minutes and the vacuum pump didn't run or water leak out of bowl.

All the advice was good and this would be a good thread to save for those of us with the Vacuflush system.

Regards,