Proper sealants?

A&J Outdoors

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I've owned a couple boats before the current Grady White and I did a lot of work on them myself. I often used 5200 or 4200 depending on the application. Since joining this forum I see a lot of comments that seem to suggest not to use these, and there are better sealants out there. My questions, what is wrong with using 5200 or 4200, and if there are better sealants out there, what are they and why are they better?
I'm not posting this for an argument, but rather to learn more. Thanks!
 

Hookup1

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I'm using 3M 4000. UV stable. Can be used below the waterline. Not as strong an adhesive - easier to remove. Excellent caulk. About the same price as 4200/5200.
 
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DennisG01

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The problem is the internet. When someone reads, over and over, on various forums... "I use 5200 and it's great", then one tends to believe what is written without doing their own research. BUT... those people that spout off about "5200 being so great"... what are THEIR credentials? Or are they just copying and pasting what they've read by someone else. YOU'RE asking the RIGHT question, John!

5200 actually has VERY few uses around a boat. It's an extremely strong ADHESIVE. The bond it creates is stronger than the bond between your fiberglass and gelcoat and can pull the gelcoat off the glass when removing an item. Most things we need to "seal" are held in place with mechanical fasteners. For that, you only need a SEALANT, not an adhesive. There are zero reasons to use an adhesive in most places. The deck to hull joint... THAT is a good place for 5200. But for other things - why would you want to make removal, down the road, SO much harder than it has to be... and, besides, it doesn't "seal" any better.

4200 is less of an adhesive but is still an adhesive, not a SEALANT. As noted above, both 5200 and 4200 are not UV stable, either.

For flat items (cleats, etc), the best thing to use is butyl rubber tape. Liquid (caulk) sealants are better for gaps. 3M4000 is good stuff. Personally, I've been using the Boat Life products for so long (including at the shop) that that's pretty much all I use (if I'm not using butyl rubber, that is). Life Seal for most things - Life Caulk if I want some strength, as well. A lot of people like using GE Silcone II from Home Depot for places where you would want to get into it again in a few years (gas tank hatch, for example)... plus their almond (I think?) color closely matches the newer Grady color. It's not as long lasting as the better stuff but it's less expensive and if you only need a few years out of it, then it's a good choice.
 
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A&J Outdoors

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Thank you for the information, I really do appreciate it! So Life Seal and Life Caulk can pretty much handle most uses on the boat. I will be checking them out for sure. I'm getting to be an old dog, but not too old to learn. :)
 

DennisG01

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Don't discount the 3M stuff, though. They have excellent products.

One of things I specifically like about the Boat Life stuff is they actually cure perfectly well in the presence of water. In fact, misting them with water will cause them to cure faster! :)
 
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Toomac

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The problem is the internet. When someone reads, over and over, on various forums... "I use 5200 and it's great", then one tends to believe what is written without doing their own research. BUT... those people that spout off about "5200 being so great"... what are THEIR credentials? Or are they just copying and pasting what they've read by someone else. YOU'RE asking the RIGHT question, John!

5200 actually has VERY few uses around a boat. It's an extremely strong ADHESIVE. The bond it creates is stronger than the bond between your fiberglass and gelcoat and can pull the gelcoat off the glass when removing an item. Most things we need to "seal" are held in place with mechanical fasteners. For that, you only need a SEALANT, not an adhesive. There is zero reasons to use an adhesive in most places. The deck to hull joint... THAT is a good place for 5200. But for other things - why would you want to make removal, down the road, SO much harder than it has to be... and, besides, it doesn't "seal" any better.

4200 is less of an adhesive but is still an adhesive, not a SEALANT. As noted above, both 5200 and 4200 are not UV stable, either.

For flat items (cleats, etc), the best thing to use is butyl rubber tape. Liquid (caulk) sealants are better for gaps. 3M4000 is good stuff. Personally, I've been using the Boat Life products for so long (including at the shop) that that's pretty much all I use (if I'm not using butyl rubber, that is). Life Seal for most things - Life Caulk if I want some strength, as well. A lot of people like using GE Silcone II from Home Depot for places where you would want to get into it again in a few years (gas tank hatch, for example)... plus their almond (I think?) color closely matches the newer Grady color. It's not as long lasting as the better stuff but it's less expensive and if you only need a few years out of it, then it's a good choice.
The most intelligent reply to the "5200" question ever. You need to post this on the grady-white forums on fb.
 
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SkunkBoat

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I was just out today removing my deck hatches. I open them EVERY year. IMO everyone should do that.

I have been using GE silicone II (Roof & gutter) with much success. Last spring I sealed the fuel tank hatch with 3M 4000UV to see how it works. I used GE silicone on the smaller hatch over the bilge.

BOTH stayed sealed all season.

The 4000uv is definitley tougher to pull a razor knife through but pulls out in one long piece if you make two cuts against the edges of the hatch.
The 4000uv is denser.
The GE silicone was easier to cut and pull out of the gap.
The silicone had more black mold in the stern most spot that is always wet...so not a fair comparison.

I will probably go back to GE silicone next spring.
 

Saltyone

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Do you use the GE Silicone or the Life Seal for the Thru Hulls?
 

Fishtales

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42/5200 for adhesive work (former if you want to separate in the future, latter if you don't). Life caulk for sealing things that you don' plan to take apart and GE Silicone Almond color for things you likely take apart.
 
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Recoil Rob

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I put a T-Top on a 180 this year and since there was no way to use backing plates the manufacturer recommends "screw and glue", putting 5200 under the floor pads before screwing down. I'm amazed how solid it is.

Screen Shot 2022-11-10 at 10.57.54 AM.jpg
 

seasick

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What does the "fill with 2 part epoxy' instruction mean?
 

Recoil Rob

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The arrow should be pointing to the drilled pilot hole in the deck. you fill with epoxy and drive the screw while wet so it cures molded to the screw and is forced into deck substrate.
 
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seasick

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I got it. I thought that might be the case but the arrow was so far off, it confused me ( a more frequent event these days)'