Pulling Prop Shaft Housings

Very welcome. I am happy to help. I have found that Grady White owners are a different breed of people and I am proud to be part of the Grady White community. I bought my offshore in 2006 and would not trade it for anything but another Grady.
 
Sparkdog118 said:
Wow. She is tight. How hot did you get it? Gotta use oxygen n acetylene on the outside of the housing 1 inch and 6 inches below the level of the prop shaft seal to loosen up the salt. If it is that tight, and you don’t heat it, you will crack the bearing carrier in half then you are really in trouble. Especially with the correct tool.
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I guess I didn't get it hot enough? I'm ticked, and hitting the bottle before I try the other one...

How do I get the rest out now?20200530_171405.jpg20200530_171429.jpg
 
Oh no. Definitely not hot enough. Did you use oxygen n acetylene? Needs to be around 800 to 1000 deg evenly around the housing. Just a few hundred deg under melting point. This will not hurt the housing. Heat it on the outside of the housing only where the carrier is touching inside. Remove all plastic water screens first etc. don’t leave torch on 1 place. Move around a lot staying on the circle ⭕️ area. To get the pull, you may have to rig a prop nut and a slide hammer. Remove the shift shaft. That will release the prop shaft and allow you to use it as a puller. Remove the water pump and slide hammer the prop shaft after it is cooking. You can tell when the aluminum is just before melting. Will slightly change color. Hammer a few times and if no go heat more n hammer again.
 
Shift shaft is removed by removing the 3 bolts wit 10mm heads. Then pry out the round plastic Shaft housing evenly with 2 flat screwdrivers carefully. With the unit in neutral, the shaft will lift out.
 
Did you apply heat to housing on the lu or on the prop shaft cover?
 
Water pump off, which looks good... Thinking about using for another season. Going for the shift shaft next. That is all I have to free up and then what, hammer on the prop nut to pull shaft and housing together?20200530_202118.jpg?
 
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We only get 12 months out of the rubber impeller here in fla. The rubber dries out and the spring pressure in the cup goes down. If you take the impeller out of the cup and the blades are still bent, replace it.
Got to also remove the shift shaft. Install the prop nut and the washer on the shaft. Heat the unit to about 800 deg. Then with a slide hammer, grab the prop nut and give it a few raps. If it doesn’t budge heat more and repeat. If no luck heat more.increasing the temp between each hammering episode.
 
I’m not sure where my special tool is for this but I used to have a monster nut that was threaded for a prop shaft on one end and threaded for the slide hammer on the other. Like 2 different nuts welded together.
 
It's out... Clamped slide hammer on with a pipe clamp. Re-heated, and it came right out. Diagnosis? I found out you can't pull a counter rotating unit this way, you have to hammer out the carrier and prop shaft together! I watched at least 4 videos, none of them mentioned counter rotating units being different. Expensive mistake!20200530_214441.jpg
 
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Oh man. Didn’t know you were working on a counter. That is a whole different animal. You can get a good price on a good used carrier from superior marine salvage in Bonita springs, Fla. Ask for jack. He has everything.
 
Sparkdog118 said:
Oh man. Didn’t know you were working on a counter. That is a whole different animal. You can get a good price on a good used carrier from superior marine salvage in Bonita springs, Fla. Ask for jack. He has everything.
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I may be doing this soon. For a counter rotation LU, what do you have to remove to pull the entire assembly, just the shift shaft or the entire drive shaft? Learning a lot here!
 
wspitler said:
I may be doing this soon. For a counter rotation LU, what do you have to remove to pull the entire assembly, just the shift shaft or the entire drive shaft? Learning a lot here!
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Pulled the shift shaft then slide hammer on prop shaft...
 
Sparkdog118 said:
Oh man. Didn’t know you were working on a counter. That is a whole different animal. You can get a good price on a good used carrier from superior marine salvage in Bonita springs, Fla. Ask for jack. He has everything.
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Any idea how to get this one apart? My service manual is on order, hasn't even shipped yet...
 
Left and right rotation shift shafts release the prop shaft. Slide hammer method works on both. Puller method only on standard rotation. Puller is a little more aggressive. I usually have to heat 95% of the carriers I pull. Some more than others. I try to not heat as much if the paint job is nice. In that case I pull more than heat, but still heat as required.
 
Sparkdog118 said:
Left and right rotation shift shafts release the prop shaft. Slide hammer method works on both. Puller method only on standard rotation. Puller is a little more aggressive. I usually have to heat 95% of the carriers I pull. Some more than others. I try to not heat as much if the paint job is nice. In that case I pull more than heat, but still heat as required.
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I mean this shaft, how do I get it out of this broken carrier so I can replace the carrier...
 
1 good tip you won’t find on the service manual is to apply a generous amount of 3m 847 under and on top of the carrier o ring before Assembly. Also apply on the outside of each oil seal between the seal and the aluminum housing. Be sure the aluminum is cleaned with emery cloth and wiped out with brake cleaner. Prep everything before applying 847 since it dries quick. It is the best insurance you will find for a rubber seal or an o ring. It is like a brown liquid rubber adhesive. I even use it on gas tank sending unit gaskets. It is a great product. 08747273-D732-44E8-B805-4FB4B846F15E.jpeg327A629A-6892-4BC5-8F76-DA44ACB37565.jpeg
also don’tforget to grease the spring cavity of the seals.
 
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