Pulling the trigger on a pilot house on the 228

Anyone know any builders near seattle that could make this?

No personal experience, though a quick Google search shows a Northwest Marine Fiberglass in Seattle, as well as a Pacific Fiberglass. The former appears to do custom hardtops and pilothouses and has good reviews on Google/Yelp.

 
No personal experience, though a quick Google search shows a Northwest Marine Fiberglass in Seattle, as well as a Pacific Fiberglass. The former appears to do custom hardtops and pilothouses and has good reviews on Google/Yelp.


No personal experience, though a quick Google search shows a Northwest Marine Fiberglass in Seattle, as well as a Pacific Fiberglass. The former appears to do custom hardtops and pilothouses and has good reviews on Google/Yelp.

They quoted me $2k for ding repair on a client's swim step (red Mastercraft). ouch but I asked them about a pilothouse LOL
 
Amazing! Been wanting a pilothouse on my 228 since I got it 6 years ago. I started a few thread about it. Your build is the best documented, maybe only one! I need to find a local builder but I hope he would get the lines right like yours, it's not easy to do, easy to make them look like crap!

Getting the lines "right" was some work. There were a few mistakes made:

a) The radio box is too close to the windows, there is space there but not enough to get the screws in the top of the windows. I need to make some square head screws about 6 or 7mm to snug up the tops of the windows. Would be easier if we had left a 2 inch gap.

b) If you look at http://mcvoy.com/lm/228-pilot/12.html look at where the pilot house stops and the boat starts towards the rear, at the wall of the cabin. See how the cabin wall slopes back and then becomes vertical? I should have started the curve of the pilot house from the vertical on the cabin wall? Why? A little more shelter might be nice but the real reason is that I liked to turn the passenger chair sideways, facing the helm, sit in it, and put my feet on the helm seat. Lets me look forward and backwards while trolling. I can't do that because the structure of the wall is made from tubes, see here:
The tubes are flush with the outside wall but stick into the pilot house. This takes space away from the interior and makes it impossible to turn the seat. I think if the curve was moved back a bit, the seat thing may have worked. On the other hand, you'd have to extend the roof further back to make the curve work and that would start to make the rod holders on the roof be useless for most people because you can't stand on the fish boxes to get to them. Would have been barely ok for me, I'm 6'2" but not for some of the people I fish with.

c) I put 3 rod holders on the rear tubes, the top ones are useless, leave those off.

Other than that, it's great, very pleased with it. I'm happy I didn't go the powder coat path, would have saved me $10K but I'd be redoing it in 3 years, this paint is like what Grady uses, should last me my lifetime.
 
They quoted me $2k for ding repair on a client's swim step (red Mastercraft). ouch but I asked them about a pilothouse LOL
Oh I'm sure lol... I imagine any "custom" fiberglass work or project that they, or any other local shop builds, is going to be insanely priced, especially in the Seattle area and have to assume it'll likely cost at least $15k+, if not more to do something similar. You might be able to find a smaller shop or someone that moonlights projects on the side for less, that being said... you generally get what you pay for, and the quality of their work might not be up to what you're looking for.
 
Lookin' REALLY nice. I'm jealous!

A thought... are you guys doing anything to help deaden the sound on larger, flat aluminum spots? Do you think it's needed? Like maybe the stuff that is put on the inside of car door panels? It really does make a noticeable difference - and it doesn't have to go all the way to the edge. Car audio installers sometimes use this stuff, too. I've had cars with and without this (from the factory) and there is definitely a difference.
I'm reading through this thread and I don't think I answered this one. There is no need, I've been out on the ocean a bunch of times and I've never been like "jeeze, I wish this aluminum was more quiet". It's quiet. I think Charlie made things thicker than car doors, it's 1/8 most places and 3/16 on the roof, it's fine. Strong, quiet, fine.
 
I'm reading through this thread and I don't think I answered this one. There is no need, I've been out on the ocean a bunch of times and I've never been like "jeeze, I wish this aluminum was more quiet". It's quiet. I think Charlie made things thicker than car doors, it's 1/8 most places and 3/16 on the roof, it's fine. Strong, quiet, fine.
Excellent - I'm glad to hear that. Truthfully, I was just curious - you know, the kind of thing you put in your "mental toolbox" :)
 
This is an amazing undertaking. Good for you. I studied the pictures and one thing caught my eye, there are no grab handles.
I think I would want some vertical grab handles on the four corners. If someone is walking around the front and a wave tries to pitch him, it's far easier to stay in the boat by having something to pull on rather than push against the rail.
 
This is an amazing undertaking. Good for you. I studied the pictures and one thing caught my eye, there are no grab handles.
I think I would want some vertical grab handles on the four corners. If someone is walking around the front and a wave tries to pitch him, it's far easier to stay in the boat by having something to pull on rather than push against the rail.
There is a grab bar on the roof on either side. Works well for walking forward. I have taco outrigger bases installed, makes for a good grab high up. For the rest, I use the rod holders on the rear vertical tubes.
 
I’m assuming Lucky knows this guy?

I do not but strangely enough, the guy who found the picture with the curved rears, Peter, he knows that boat.
I know you guys give me credit for this build, and I'll take some, but Peter scoured the internet for pictures of pilot
houses on 228s. When he found that arch, yeah, that's the one we went with.

My contributions were: (A) the line of the roof relative to the rest of the boat. The fabricator likes a more wedge design with the front lower. I wanted the line to match the gunnel line. (B) the line I picked lifted the front of the roof a lot and that let me have a big ass radio box. It's huge, I love it. (C) big ass windows. Fabricator wanted to leave more metal for structural strength, I talked to the window people and they convinced me the windows would add that strength. So I believe I got the biggest windows he's ever done for a 228 pilot house (there are at least 2 others in the SF Bay Area that he did). (D) rooftop tuna chair. He didn't like the idea but I got him to do it and after it was done he said "I should have done this on every one of these".

I really liked the fabricator, Charlie Hicks in Sonoma. I pushed, he moved, but when he felt I pushed too much, he pushed back. At least from my side, it was a great collaboration.
 
Are the windows glass, or some form of plexi, that might be curved? A one piece windshield would really improve visibility.
 
Are the windows glass, or some form of plexi, that might be curved? A one piece windshield would really improve visibility.
They are 2 panes of glass bonded together, I believe similar to automotive glass. And they are flat, hence the divider in the middle - getting custom curved glass would have been really expensive and this is already pretty spendy. The windows were $1700 for the set of 4.