pulling the trigger on used grady

tbyrne

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OK

I made my offer on a 1985 tournament 190 with a 1999 130 HP suzuki.

The boat is in decent shape, needs some cleaning but not too bad. The motor runs strong with no issues.

So, $4000 is that a good deal ?

I have not seen many for less.

It has a bimini top but will need to be replaced. The trailer is in good shape. No noticeable hull or transom issues.

Should hear back tomorrow but think it`s a go.

Anything I should be concerned about with a 23 year old boat and a 9 year old motor ?
 

fishie1

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Hire a surveyor and let him tell you if there are gremlins hiding in the hull. After the purchase, Sea Tow or the like is cheap insurance. Buy yourself some good rubbing compound and wax, maybe a buffer too, and she'll look good as new!
 

gw204

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Yep, a surveyor will tell you all you need to know. But if your offer was not contingent on a survey, you won't have any recourse if issues are found.

tbyrne said:
OK

1999 130 HP suzuki

Is that a typo? Suzuki didn't make a 130...
 

hotajax

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Hire A Surveyor

Do a search on this board for "Surveyor" in the title. I mentioned a guy named Bill Reynolds and he is top-shelf. Truly an independent guy with no ties to any marina or other commercial interests other than his surveying company. He gets $20 (twenty) per running foot of boat.
 

Grog

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Re: Hire A Surveyor

hotajax said:
Do a search on this board for "Surveyor" in the title. I mentioned a guy named Bill Reynolds and he is top-shelf. Truly an independent guy with no ties to any marina or other commercial interests other than his surveying company. He gets $20 per running foot of boat.

The updated price makes it more palatable.
 

plymouthgrady

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you should be paying somewhere b/t $300-$500 for a quality survey. On a 19' boat it may be a little less-$200 range. Be there when the survey is done- DON'T BE AFRAID TO ASK QUESTIONS. look for a thorough, in depth survey and report. You're spending hard earned money-get your $$'s worth- it could be the best few hundred bucks you spend.
 

tbyrne

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Survey

What exactly does a boat surveyor do ? Is it all visual or is there equipment involved ? How much can you do on your own ?


I am actually looking at the boat one more time tomorrow after the survey topic popped up. I personally looked it over and thought it was fine, now I am going to look deeper and ask about the survey.

Any info regarding what a surveyor actually does is appreciated.

Thanks
 

plymouthgrady

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a surveyors best tool is the end of a screwdriver. He'll go over the hull tapping looking for soft or dead spots. He'll check for moisture check electrical, steering, etc. He should go over all the systems to confirm they are operational. He's basically signing off on the overall integrity of the boat.
 

hotajax

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Surveyor's Job......

is to give you the facts, the cold hard truth about your boat. He shouldn't be telling you it's price. He shouldn't be telling you whether or not to buy it. He should be digging to find out things about its material condition and let you decide whether or not you want to buy it. Beware of a surveyor who prints up a big fancy write up telling you what he thinks it's worth - that's not his job.

I ended up buying a 20 footer. The survey was $400 in Central New Jersey, his fee at $20 per foot. (Sorry I mistakenly quoted him at $100 per foot initially). The survey took 3 hours including the sea trial.

His two best tools are a screwdriver, to remove access plates and look for cracks, mildew, water, and soft spots, and a plastic hammer. The hammer is used to tap the hull. Changes in pitch from the hammer taps can indicate cracks or the presence of water. This is not something for an untrained person to do.

They also use a tool that can verify the presence of UNFROZEN water inside the hull. If it is too cold outside, and the water is ice, the instrument is rendered useless because the ice appear as solid fiberglass.

The surveyor should also do a compression check of the engine.

Obviously they use other things as well. I had my guy go out on the sea trial (since I was buying from a broker, and buying from a broker just sucked more than anything you can imagine). During the sea trial, the surveyor discovered that the expensive installed fishfinder didn't operate correctly, and that the boat is propped excessively. I couldn't hit the rpm recommended by Yamaha.

Hope this helps - call me if you have questions, I'll try and answer them. It was probably the best $400 I have ever spent
 

dlevitt

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I purchased an '81 Grady last fall with a '93 Evinrude 200 (GW Bimini 220). I had never owned a boat before, so this was a new experience. Due to insurance/registration issues and no tow vehicle, we didn't do a sea trial. If we had, I would have known that the engine was bogging down in the mid RPM range and needed carb work. Fortunately, someone gave me the advice to have the engine serviced by a qualified mechanic before launching.

Otherwise, the surveyer confirmed good compression and overall good condition of the boat (for its age). He noticed some transom delamination issues/moisture (which I used to my advantage for price negotiation). He also noticed that the plastic thru hull fittings were cracking and needed to be replaced as well as some wiring issues.

His job wasn't to tell me if I should buy the boat or not. His job was to give me the good, the bad and the ugly... With his information, I was able to negotiate a fair price for both myself and the seller in light of the issues (remember, it was a 27 year old boat). I still had to put about $1,000 into repairs prior to launching, but this was to be expected and factored into the selling price. I had the carbs rebuilt, new water pump, changed lower gear oil, installed a racor water separator, replaced all thru hulls, and some additional things that I don't remember. The fuel tank was replaced in 1999, so that didn't need to be changed. It is my understanding that the tanks have about a 20 year life span. I also spent a lot of time compounding and waxing the hull and refinishing the teak trim. While this is only cosmetic, it still needed to be done.

Make sure that you always have some $$$ in reserve as things will sneak up on you and break. I just had to replace the oil/fuel pump, which was fine last fall. This was $400 for the part plus a couple of hours labor (which including diagnosing the problem, replacing the pump among a few other things that the mechanic noticed).

Good luck and let us know how you make out.

David
 

Grog

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Banana River View said:
Grog.. I must have missed something. Hotajax wrote "$20 per foot" but your post said he wrote "$100 per foot". How did that happen? .. BRV

At first he had $100 in his post and my quote of his post didn't update when he edited it. $400 isn't that bad for a survey, if done properly it can save you thousands later.
 

CJBROWN

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BOAT = break out another thousand :mrgreen:

Insurer will require a survey to bind a policy. Most lenders will require one if they're saavy at all on boats. If you're buying cash you will still need one for insurance.
A good surveyor (a lot aren't worth a crap, a good referal here is highly recommended) will find things the average boat owner would not. They know what to look for, and they have an extensive checklist they go thru, something most of us aren't organized or preplanned enough to have. I find things a surveyor doesn't because I've owned so many boats, old, new, sail, power, and I've built and repaired them, so I know what to look for. The average boat owner just maintains their vessel and uses it. And unless you've dealth with the 'bad and ugly', you're not aware of what you should be looking for. They may also be aware of common issues with certain styles or brands, and will know to pay special attention to what those may be. Of late, user forums are invaluble for common issues with a certain brand or model. Ah, the advent of the internet!!!

My expertise is greater on wooden boats, so I would be hiring a surveyor for any glass boat, they would know what to be looking for in that medium. Blisters, moisture, delamination, poor layup, flexing, etc.

It's not unusual to use a different guy for the motor, or maybe even a surveyor will exclude it, and defer you to a qualified outboard technician. Here's another area that I would defer to, especially if it has a computer control, and so they can check for hours, maintenance, trouble-codes, etc.

If you're buying anything more than a couple of years old you need a surveyor for your own protection. Otherwise you assume all responsibility for any shortcomings. Plus, as mentioned, if there are descrepancies or recommendations noted, they are a bargaining tool on the final selling price. All offers should be 'subject to' a satisfactory survey and sea trials. That way if it turns out to be not what you expected you can back out of the deal and get your money back. Its a shame to hear the buying is expeirence was poor with a broker, they are supposed to assist in the process much like a real estate agent would on real property. And they act as a buffer between buyer and seller.

Unfortunately, I have paid for surveys, and read surveys, where it was obvious the surveyor was not that familiar with what's common for a certain type of vessel. For a modern outboard boat, that should not be an issue.
 

BobP

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My insurance company didn't ask for a survey, just where the boat was moored, I don't even think they came to inspect it or even take a photo.
It was 8 yrs old when bought.

The surveyor will tell you what is wrong with the boat that is invisible to most eyes. Unless you don't care, don't you want to know everything that is wrong with it now and not later ? Some of the structural work is very expensive, way more than you are paying for the boat. The surveyor will be able to tell you also what the costs will be for any repairs needed, and shown in written report.

The surveyor has nothing to do with the motor. You contact a Suzuke dealer and ask for a pre-purchase evaluation.

Interview more than one surveyor, ask what his/her experience is in Gradys, how many have they done, what have they found, etc. Avoid anyone who hasn't done Grady's, ask to see a written report he has done for a Grady, read it, he can blank out the owner's name before he shows you if concerned with privacy - if he says so.

You can do interview over phone, don't be specifc about the exact boat otherwise you may see him at the boat already thinking he is hired.
If any surveyor called, is annoyed by these questions, say thanks and you will let him know - never call back.

Good luck.
 

Hookup1

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Surveyor

All insurance companies will require a survey if the hull is 10 years old or older. You can do a lot of the survey work yourself (bilge pumps, topside, etc.) but the hull survey particurlaly the transome has to be done by a pro. Prepare ahead of time for the ten year survey on the day you purchase the boat. A few years after the purchase you are going to have to deal with the insurance company one-on-one.

These boats are plywood cored in certain areas. If water intrudes the core the plywood turns into peat moss. Transome, decks and stringers are affected. Look for non-factory holes drilled or owner fasteners installed. Most are improperly caulked and water intrusion can occur. The more original the boat (less new holes) the better.

Outboard engines are the second most expensive part of the boat. Unfortunatly they are a expendable wear item. The owner and surveyor may agree that they are running fine but they will need to be replaced at some point in time. Factor that into your purchase.

In your case a survey is going to cost you $400 plus or minus for a $4000 boat and trailer. If the hull is sound and kept up it can last forever. If the motor has some life left in it you have probably got a good deal. Keep in mind that that motor will eventually get tossed and replaced.