Question on Gimbal Mounts

Pescadote

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Two questions really!

1. Which size tubing for a 1996 228: 1 and 1/2 inch or 1 and 3/4 inch tubing?

2. Anybody use a gimbal mount for Scotty downriggers? I like the idea of not drilling holes to mount the mounting plate, but I wonder about the torque and stress of a downrigger dragging 12 or 15 lb lead at 100' of water?
 

trapper

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As I mentioned in another thread, I drilled holes and mounted my Scotty down riggers with aluminium backing plates. I drag 20 lb. leads to 250 ft. Never a problem with gunnel movement. It seems in your case a gimbal mount would work although it does seem like a fair amount of stress over a small area. Like the idea of spreading out the torque. I also use my mounts for pulling prawn traps and the motor is rated for 100 lbs. Having blown the fuse a couple of times with traps caught on rocks, again no shudder in the gunnels. My 2 bits!
 

Pescadote

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As I mentioned in another thread, I drilled holes and mounted my Scotty down riggers with aluminium backing plates. I drag 20 lb. leads to 250 ft. Never a problem with gunnel movement. It seems in your case a gimbal mount would work although it does seem like a fair amount of stress over a small area. Like the idea of spreading out the torque. I also use my mounts for pulling prawn traps and the motor is rated for 100 lbs. Having blown the fuse a couple of times with traps caught on rocks, again no shudder in the gunnels. My 2 bits!
Yes, I am leaning toward just drilling the holes and permanently mounting the downrigger base. I was also thinking of using a backing plate would be necessary if I go that route.
 
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Fishtales

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The gimbal mount probably isn't the best as the GW rod holder isn't the strongest. If you check inside the center pin is held in with pop rivets as I recall.
I'd use the hard peestal mount with a backing plate (al or PT) and 4 bolts. When the rigger is removed it really isn't an high profile mount and you don't have to worry about storing the larger gimbal mounts.
 

Fishtales

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Even if they did, the rod holders have no backing plate. I think they could rip out pretty easily if you ever got snagged.
 

Pescadote

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Thanks, everybody. I am going to order some 1.5" rod holders and I am not going to try the gimbal mount downrigger base. I think it would be pretty catastrophic if an issued occurred and I don't want the rod holder mount exploding and losing an electric Scotty. I am going to make up a backing plate and mount the downrigger base on top of the gunwale.
 
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trapper

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Run your backing plate well past either side of the down rigger base. Spread out the torque. I use a little synthetic grease on the Scotty swivel part of the base as it makes it easier to turn (swing in or out ) under load.
 

Pescadote

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Do you prefer your downriggers off the side of the boat, where you can get to them easier, or off the back corner, where the lines are clear of the boat?
I run my downriggers off to the side of the boat and then run a couple of rods shallow straight out the back in the prop wash. Some days the back rods hardly get bit and sometimes they are MONEY! Fish mostly for salmon in Oregon and Vancouver Island.

I will sometimes stack on the downriggers, but rarely have I found it worth the hassle unless the fish are really deep and the shallow rods are not getting any action at all.
 
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Hookup1

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If you check inside the center pin is held in with pop rivets as I recall.
I bent and sheared several of my pop rivet pins in the GW rod holders. Grind them out and use a same size stainless bolt. Ideally a bolt with no threads inside the rod holder. You can use a backing plate or fender washers. The gunnels are cored and pretty sturdy.
 

Fishtales

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Pop rivets seems pretty cheap to me. I don't think GW thru bolts them either.
 

mkslug

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Mounted ours with a backing plate right in front of the rear rod holders. 14 years and no issues or signs of stress. Skip the gimbal mounts if you’re serious about heavy lead and going deep. We troll down 250 feet or more in Monterey Bay for salmon.
 

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luckydude

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Even if they did, the rod holders have no backing plate. I think they could rip out pretty easily if you ever got snagged.

They fit but I'm going to get bases and backing plates, I have the crab pot puller, it worked but it seems wiser to go stronger.
I learned here that Scotty's have a drag setting on the downriggers, gonna look into that too.

boat-228.jpg
 

leeccoll

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Your gonna want the security of drilling and permanent mounting in my humble opinion. And I use 10lb balls, your will add more stress to the gun whale. Make sure you back plate it. I was happy with my Cannon install.

20200229_132824.jpg20200229_134330.jpg
 
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luckydude

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So talk to me about backing plates, I'm guessing aluminum? How thick?
Or do you do stainless?
I'm also guessing you just buy stock and cut it to size?
 

leeccoll

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I bought 2 aluminum strips at my local Home Depot. As I recall they were 2" wide, and thick enough. I used a Dremel tool to cut the lengths I wanted, then drilled out the holes. I used a magic marker to mark the spots where to drill through bases by holding the aluminum up to the underside of my Cannon bases. Also used fender washers between the nut and the bracket to spread out the load. The space under the gun whale is limited in width, so that was my best option. Also had to chisel out some of the basic flotation Grady added in that area to allow the bracket strips to snug up to the fiberglass.
 

Meanwhile

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Your gonna want the security of drilling and permanent mounting in my humble opinion. And I use 10lb balls, your will add more stress to the gun whale. Make sure you back plate it. I was happy with my Cannon install.

View attachment 17467View attachment 17468
I like those stainless mounts. They will never crack like my plastic ones did. They are spendy, but lifetime.
 
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