Question on how to troubleshoot

[agoltz]

Hi Folks

I had a quick question for the braintrust here on how to troubleshoot this. This is for a 2012 Freedom 335.

The spreader lights do not come on. The switch on the console when pressed does not have the little red light at the bottom come on (like it does for the bilge pumps for example).

Is this the switch? The wiring, or are the spreader lights burned out (i have changed them 5 years ago from halogen to LED)

Thanks

Alex

 

[SkunkBoat]

There is either a circiut breaker on the panel or a fuse under the console.
If that doesn't do it, remove the wire from the switch to the lights and touch it to 12V. if lights work then its the switch.
If not then could be wiring,...1/4" connectors on switch...whatever connections were made when you changed to LED.

Make sure you check the -12V return (ground) wire from the lights too

 

[agoltz]

OK - thank you for that. The switch does have a circuit breaker next to it (black rubber cap) - and its fine (ie not popped) - will bypass the switch to see if that works

 

[PointedRose]

It could be as simple as a loose connection. I’d get a cheap voltmeter and follow the wire as best you can. Test at the light like skunk said, test at the switch, and you should be able to narrow into the problem in the wire chain. Led bulbs shouldn’t burn out. If you trailer regularly might have jolted something loose

 

[TopsulTime]

You need to get a voltmeter and be able to get to the wires that connect to the switch and circuit breaker. I'd start at the switch and see if you have voltage there 1st since the switch lite doesn't light up. I suspect you don't have voltage getting to the switch. From the ground the light uses (black lead here), touch the red lead to each side of the circuit breaker (you should have 12 vdc). If you do have 12v there then start moving towards the light starting with the switch. If you don't have 12v on the breaker start moving towards the battery (source voltage).

 

[agoltz]

So to update this - today I put the voltmeter on the switch - there are 13V coming out when turned on and 0 when off. So its not the switch. I think they burned out because the little red light on the switch is also burned out. Im going to check voltage at the spreader lights next (and order a new switch so the red light works)

 

[glacierbaze]

It would be pretty unusual for 2 LED fixtures to burn out at once. Once you complete the circuit, you may get your red light back, without buying a new switch.

 

[SkunkBoat]

My spreaders are not on a panel switch it is part of the overhead light so I'm going by what you have described.

The red light requires a ground wire on the switch for illumination. Usually there is a daisy chain of black wires from switch to switch
Its a 2012 so I would assume the illumiation is an LED not an incandescent.

The spreader LEDs require a ground wire back to the negative bus. It usually does NOT come back to the switches but to a negative bus at or near a fuse panel under the dash or in the overhead box.
Find the wire to the LEDs (probably blue/white) and the return (black) wire from them and apply power.

Find the connections (splices?) from the changeover to LED from halogen. That would be my first action.

At any rate, disconnect them and test them on a battery.
Forget the meter...It has a ground connection and your problem might be that your lights do not and then you will be confused when you read 12 v and they don't work.

 

[Capt Bill]

Agree with what SkunkBoat said; on my 2012 Freedom (255), there are two switches on the dome under the hardtop. One is for the dome light and the other for the spreader lights.

 

[agoltz]

So the 335 Freedom has a panel switch. Interestingly - after I played with the switch yesterday to confirm it was working (the voltage part), I had to go back to the boat today and check on a radio wire, the lights (and the switch) now work. Huh?
Im guessing by taking the connectors off and on something must have happened because now it works. (corrosion rears its ugly head again). In any event the problem solved itself.

 

[Sailfish]

Sounds like corrosion. Give all of the connections a good cleaning.

 

[seasick]

So the 335 Freedom has a panel switch. Interestingly - after I played with the switch yesterday to confirm it was working (the voltage part), I had to go back to the boat today and check on a radio wire, the lights (and the switch) now work. Huh?
Im guessing by taking the connectors off and on something must have happened because now it works. (corrosion rears its ugly head again). In any event the problem solved itself.

Maybe.
Sometimes a loose spade connector is the issue when combined with the normal oxidation that happens over time. More often, that spade connector has gotten loose due to age, expansion/contraction etc. Pulling it off and putting it back on may help for a while but often a problem will develop again. The higher the current draw of the load, the faster that will happen. If a spade connector slides off easily it is in need of replacement. Yes you can pinch it tighter a bit with a pliers but it will spread again.
So if the problem pops up again look for connections that are common to the devices that don't power up and check those connectors. If you find loose ones, crimp on new, good quality terminals

 

[agoltz]

That is great advice - thank you!

 

[agoltz]

Update - I replaced the switch as it happened again. All good now (except I ordered the wrong color light - now it looks yellow not red - oh well)