Quick Question Bilge Pump Voyager 248 Help

[gradywhite248]

I have a quick question. Last time I was at the coast my aft Bilge pump quit. I know its a Rule 1500 an will order another one but is the strainer basket mounted to the floor and you unsnap the old an snap in the new & wire?
Sorry I hate not being able to look myself. any help or photos would be great....

Thanks

 

[DennisG01]

I guess you could look on Rule's website (Xylem). But if it's not a snap-in, there will just be a couple screws. Either way, simple enough. Bring proper tools/extensions. Even if it is snap-in, there's always the possibility that a previous owner screwed it down.

 

[seasick]

I would assume it is hard wired, no connector. You will have to cut and splice.

 

[hooked on Grady]

Yes it should be a snap in fit provided it is replaced with same. Before replacing you could check the leads for corrosion, check to see the float is operating properly and make sure the strainer for bilge pump is not clogged. You will find a lot of stuff comes loose over the years down in there and eventually it clogs up the strainer. The pump is mounted to a mounting block in the bilge if you change units be sure to epoxy both old and new holes as the block will rot out quickly down there

 

[seasick]

Assuming your boat has a manual bilge pump switch in addition to the automatic switch, it is important to know that those two functions are powered from two different sources: Direct from the battery compartment for the auto function and powered from the switched accessory buss for the manual function. I mention this because knowing that the manual function works but the auto doesn't means that the bilge pump is good. ( as long as it has 2 wires and not 3). If neither function works, that can mean that 1. the pump is bad, 2. both power feeds are bad, 3. the ground is bad. Using a test lamp can be very helpful. Before you cut out the old pump, you want to know that the problem is not corroded wiring.

 

[Blaugrana]

When I replaced my pumps, I had to replace the strainer as well. I bought the same GPH and all from Rule but the snap-ins were different. So plan for that when you go to replace it.

It is a simple job. One thing I was not expecting was that the same screws used for the strainer/ base were used to secure the platform to the hull. I really thought the platform would be secured and then the strainer with small screws.

 

[Don Davis]

I’m just in the process of replacing my forward bilge pump which I believe is the original pump in my Seafarer. My wires were rotten between the float switch and the pump so decided to replace with an automatic pump this time to match the newer aft pump. I just need to complete the soldering and shrink wrap and all done.

 

[gradywhite248]

Thanks Guys

 

[seasick]

I’m just in the process of replacing my forward bilge pump which I believe is the original pump in my Seafarer. My wires were rotten between the float switch and the pump so decided to replace with an automatic pump this time to match the newer aft pump. I just need to complete the soldering and shrink wrap and all done.

Soldering?

Not ABYC approved. The best solution is adhesive lined crimp butt connectors.

 

[Don Davis]

Soldering?

Not ABYC approved. The best solution is adhesive lined crimp butt connectors.

Hmmm interesting I would have thought that soldering was the gold standard for all electrical connections, especially in marine environment. Could some elaborate on this topic for me, thanks, we may need a new thread for this.

 

[hooked on Grady]

definitely not! It actually weakens the connection and I believe promotes corrosion(I may be wrong here, but I think I read that somewhere in what not to do in boat wiring, boat wiring 101). adhesive lined shrink tube connections properly crimped with quality crimpers( I prefer the company with all the blue handles) Ancor or Pace tinned wire with properly sized heat shrink terminal connections. Label everything at both ends and you should be good to go.

 

[Don Davis]

Wow I just learned something valuable again from this site and the members thank you. I just read the ABYC standards for wire connections so will follow those from now on.