Long range forecast says temps will be apporaching the mid 70's by the weekend. I want to purchase a quality orbit polisher that will eliminate those pesky swirl marks when applying wax and polish. Any suggestions on specific polishers? Not looking to break the bank or upset the wife. Also, bumped into a 20 yr marine detailer today in town. He swore Yacht Brites(buff magic) is superior to Collintie cleaner for older hulls. Worth a look. Thanks
Random Orbit Polishers
- Thread starter CT19Tournament
- Start date
I got one at Harbor Freight, variable speed. like $29.00. Used three seasons and even used to grind out rusted metal, degraded fiberglass and polish and wax the boat three times and still running. The accessories are expensive like the 3M hookIt pads ($30), the buffing wool pads ($23.00), Finesse IT II polish ($28/qt). Makes the buffer cost insignicant.
If you want to polish, the R.O. buffers will not works as well as an angle sander/buffer.
If you want to polish, the R.O. buffers will not works as well as an angle sander/buffer.
I got a Porter Cable from AutoGeek.net. Great price and it came with a polishing pad kit.
http://www.AutoGeek.net/po.html
http://www.AutoGeek.net/po.html
The Porter Cable 7424 is a very good unit. It is relatively expensive. The Harbor friight orbital is lesser quality and many folks have had issues with it lasting.
The PC 7424 is good for novices since it is harder to burn the finish than with a regular buffer. (By the way, the 7424 works really well on cars too, the secret is to buy the correct pads for application type).
That said, the regular buffers ( slow speed,not polishers) are best for heavy oxidation removal and do a good job at polishing when used correctly.
The low cost auto style random buffers ( usually have two side handles) are OK to lightly polish and buff of wax but are not good for more agressive buffing.
As I said earlier, in many cases the choice of pads is more important than the choice of buffers. Good pads are also not cheap.
The PC 7424 is good for novices since it is harder to burn the finish than with a regular buffer. (By the way, the 7424 works really well on cars too, the secret is to buy the correct pads for application type).
That said, the regular buffers ( slow speed,not polishers) are best for heavy oxidation removal and do a good job at polishing when used correctly.
The low cost auto style random buffers ( usually have two side handles) are OK to lightly polish and buff of wax but are not good for more agressive buffing.
As I said earlier, in many cases the choice of pads is more important than the choice of buffers. Good pads are also not cheap.
I have a milwakee that i will be using real soon, a bit heavy though, but i didnt pay for it so it is great. My question is do i apply the wax first with the buffer and then remove with another pad or with the same pad apply and remove a small section at a time. Do i do the same with the same with the cleaner? Using all coolinite products. Thanks guys. 8)
I have run my HF buffer at least 100 hours so far. I can not complain except that it is heavy after a few hours. I have had some issues with other HF tools I have purchased but the VS sander/buffer is a deal.
1st Grady, do you have a link to their website page for the HF unit?
I may order one, even though I already did the hull by hand this year.
I don't need a professional grade one, just need it for the boat to avoid the temporarily annual spring carpel tunnel !
I may order one, even though I already did the hull by hand this year.
I don't need a professional grade one, just need it for the boat to avoid the temporarily annual spring carpel tunnel !
It depends on a few things. Some waxes don't like to be applied with a buffer, some do. Read the label. Generally speaking you need different physical pads for application and then final buffing. In additional, you may need to use several pads or bonnets (depending on the area waxed) for polishing since the wax can build up and burn.NDORADO said:
Not exactly like mine, 3 years old, but similar specs. Slightly more expensive as well. I have store about 5 miles away. They have a 2 or 3 year replacement warranty, which I have used for other items, for like $5. They gave me a brand new machine (scroll saw) 2 years later.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=92623
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=92623
Not sure how much info you want or need but here is a good article on polishers and pads. http://www.automotivedetailing.com/assets/articles_htm/hgh_spd_buffing.htm
thats the thing a high speed spinning wool pad is to fast and to easy to mess up a finish. The slower 7 speed doesn't spin it works the wax in with a white pad on speed 2. And cleans it off on 4 with a orange pad then shines it up on 7 with a black pad or a soft cloth over the pad. It works so mucher better than any thing I tryed. It beats hand waxing.
Just posted here for Jake on polishers:
http://www.greatgrady.com/forum/viewtop ... 6683#66683
I've had a WEN polisher for about 14 years and it just keeps going and going....energizer bunny...
What's important is that it turns 2500-3000rpm, not 10K like a sander or grinder. But you do have to learn how to use one as you can burn paint off the edges on a car. My brother in law did that, burnt the crap out of their little Ford trying to learn how to use one.
The little orbital/oscillating polisher units are worthless. It's easier to just buff with a towel. A proper polisher will cut, polish, and buff, with the right wheels, compounds, and proper use.
As I mentioned in the other thread, I've always been a fan of 3M products - widely used commercially, but not cheap.
http://www.greatgrady.com/forum/viewtop ... 6683#66683
I've had a WEN polisher for about 14 years and it just keeps going and going....energizer bunny...
What's important is that it turns 2500-3000rpm, not 10K like a sander or grinder. But you do have to learn how to use one as you can burn paint off the edges on a car. My brother in law did that, burnt the crap out of their little Ford trying to learn how to use one.
The little orbital/oscillating polisher units are worthless. It's easier to just buff with a towel. A proper polisher will cut, polish, and buff, with the right wheels, compounds, and proper use.
As I mentioned in the other thread, I've always been a fan of 3M products - widely used commercially, but not cheap.