Re-glassing Fuel-tank Hatch

a lot of real boats have hatches that don't screw down. they have drain channels formed in the deck that go to scuppers overboard. The core of the hatch is nowhere near the edge.

The pink foam works (with epoxy NOT polyester)as long as the bond is good. So does end grain balsa and vinyl honeycomb.
Having a strong core is a backup for bond failure.
 
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I want more shear strength in the core. I’m not taking any chances! Don’t want to have to do over.

Same logic I use with polyester vs epoxy. My time is worth more than the cost difference.
 
Hookup1 said:
I want more shear strength in the core. I’m not taking any chances! Don’t want to have to do over.

Same logic I use with polyester vs epoxy. My time is worth more than the cost difference.
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I hear 'ya. I posted my experience for information/reference/ and the "hmmmm" factor. I'm in no way "recommending" using foamboard to anyone else - I relaize it's not the norm. But it is quite interesting how well it's working. As I eluded to - on this hatch, I could rebuild it in just a couple hours so I wasn't worried about the time factor. But again - that's just me! :)
 
I have a 1997 Islander. My factory bow pulpit is filled with some hard fill material. Feels like resin mixed with sand! In the photo ignore the repair and look at the block sitting on top with the other stuff that was removed. The soap bar sized chunk is a fill material the GW used. Heavy and feels like Corian or some other fake rock. Its actually the corner under the bang cap that broke off.

Star corner 1.jpeg
 
GW probably outsources parts like pulpits, hatches and hardtops to different builders.
 
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