Re-wiring a boat?

[RussGW270]

This is SO beyond what I plan to do atm.. but.. someone on THT said to do this, so throwing it out here and see what you all would do...

Now, understand, doing all this... no way in hell would I take it upon myself...I would pay someone to handle it..there just is way too much that could get messed up....but...

The Garmin at the helm, works fine, but every so often, it gives me a low voltage alarm. I am not sure why... works good, everything appears to be in order, but, I will re-check all the cables and make sure it is not the switch I added it to or the fuse or.. whatever. Could just be something loose.

Anyway, was debating how hard and what it would be like to "re-wire the boat". I mean, you bet.. if could be in need since it is a 15yr old boat.. but lord.. what an undertaking. So, figured to look at the major components and start ordering a few at a time.. i.e. breakers, switch panels etc.. and then, be ready to do it.. and order a lifetime supply of wires and connectors.. lol

Seriously, would not know where to begin on something like that and not sure if it needs all that.. but.. the alarm going off worries me. Only started it after I updated the software on the Garmin...

It has an alarm setting at 11.2v

R

 

[DennisG01]

When the alarm goes off, use a voltmeter and physically check voltage at the Garmin's power point. If you've got good V there, the issue is either the Garmin connection, the cord, the connection on the back of the Garmin or the Garmin, itself. If you've got low V there, then start backtracking.

It would be very rare to need to do a full re-wire. I'd throw that suggestion out. However, contact points do get loose and corroded over time, especially if not protected. Start the fuse panels and the groud bus bars. Remove each connector (label/take pics ahead of time, if needed), inspect the wire where it goes into the connector, inspect the post, clean the post/nut/connector with a brass brush and tighten it up. Apply a protectant. Tef-Gel is fantastic - probably the best stuff out there. Dielectric grease is cheap - always apply after the connection is made as dielectric is an insulator. Tef-Gel is somewhat, too - but a thin layer of Tef-Gel can be applied before tightening down. You could also spray the entire thing with something like BoeShield T9.

FYI... do all of this with the negative battery cables removed. Also... clean the battery connections and the check the engine side of the connections.

 

[Halfhitch]

I agree with Dennis 100%. Connectors are the first suspects to investigate. Just like if you have teenagers at home and the donuts come up missing. You pretty well know where the problem happened. I had a Seaswirl Striper a few years ago and I had the "low voltage" shutdown on my Garmin stuff every time it was rough out. I thought it was the unit itself but it turned out to be a "push-on" connector at the fuse panel. Seaswirl had used a panel that had spade connectors for all the out-going wires from the fuse panel. I learned to hate them for critical circuits. If your boat has them at least pull each female spade connector and pinch them a little tighter. I switched my Striper panel out for a Blue Seas, screw terminal, panel. Never another blink on any screens.

 

[SirGrady226]

I own a 1987 226 that has spent its whole life in saltwater, most of the wiring in the bilge such as the bilge pump wiring and such I replaced simply because the wires were corroded from the end to pretty far up stream. The main thing I paid close attention to is the ground and connection buss under the helm. I replaced the terminal ends on the wires, and used a wire brush along with contact cleaner on the buss connection points. Everything on my boat works except the windshield wiper motor and the horn, horn is missing in action, and wiper motor blows the fuse and must be dead. I have a portable horn and don't have much used for the wiper.

 

[Bfrench7]

I just rewired a 2003 257 Advance. It is a time consuming task and it takes a good working knowledge of 12 volt in addition to the layout and applications in your boat. I would concur with the aforementioned - likely culprit is a bad ground. Whether is corroded, loose or just a poor connection.

One thing I did notice is that the original wiring appeared to be CCA or OFC copper wire. Tinned Copper wire is a much better option for marine wire because it definitely slows the corrosion process in the wire. Properly connecting with heat shrink connectors and dielectric will slow it down, but won’t stop it. I elected to replace my wiring after seeing how far back into the wires the corrosion had reached. In addition to using the Tinned Copper wire, I heat shrink sealed everything with ancor adhesive lined connectors and heat shrink tubes. Every connection to a bus bar also received a generous coat of dielectric grease.

 

[Bfrench7]

OFC vs CCA Wire

This is a great video to show the difference in a quality wire.

The concept is all the same if there is corrosion or poor connections. It doesn’t take much to result in a 20% or more voltage drop.

ABYC standards are 10% Voltage drop for non-essential components.

 

[glacierbaze]

I would try to get the brakes working before I started ordering electrical parts.

 

[dogdoc]

While I would love to rewire my old girl and start fresh I know that is a pipe dream. I do second the connection remarks as that is what i have done and am doing. No inline fuses, fuse boxes only and negative buss and new connectors have already made a huge difference for me.

 

[ocnslr]

All good comments above. Just do some good cleanup, cutting ends and crimping on new connectors where needed.

Loved our Grady, but the wiring materials and workmanship were a tier or two below other things. e.g. the SS on the boat was truly high quality, while the untinned wire was not.

 

[UCPA111]

I completely rewired my 1984 Seafarer. It was a pain, but 30+ years of splices, crap half corroded off, blah, blah, blah....I didn't want to fight it.
I mapped out what the boat had (each circuit) and what I wanted to add....and I went for it. Rather than running everything back to a bar or the batteries, I purchased a marine circuit panel and installed in the cabin and ran the correct AWG from battery switches forward. I sized the breakers for each specific circuit and load (i.e. wipers, down riggers, planer boards, horn, radio, fishfind, etc.). I then sized wiring based on the amps and distances. And then, I attempted (was 70% successful) in buying color coded wiring based on marine wiring guidelines. It was not cheap...because in some cases I was buying 30-40 feet of a certain size and color wire (all tinned for marine use). Then came the connectors and shrink tubing.

OK...it was a pain...but my Dad and I probably had 8-10 hours in rewiring the boat and making it look good (used wire loom and cable ties and such). I think I purchased an 18 circuit breaker panel and have a couple open slots.

 

[seasick]

Regarding the low voltage alarm on the Garmin; There is a low voltage alarm and there is a really low condition where the unit powers off (and usually restarts)The second condition is a real problem but the first condition where only an alarm is logged is no big deal. I have an older Garmin that was my primary unit but is now a second screen and no mater what I did to connections, etc, it would log a low voltage alarm whenever I started the engine. After a while looking for the cause, I gave up trying to 'fix' whatever was wrong and just disabled the alarm in the alarm menu. It has been like that for almost 10 years and works just fine as does everything else electrical

 

[hardasset16]

What size boat is it? I am more of the buy once cry once type of person. If it isn't too complicated a scheme, I would rewire it once using tinned wiring, quality butt connectors, and new fuse panels/bus bars/etc. I have a 192 Tournament, 2002 model, and am planning on doing a rewire this winter. I've replaced the fresh water pump, and when I did, noted that the original wiring was very corroded. One important thing that often gets overlooked is to get the correct tools for the job. A small heat gun is like $20 from Amazon, but much better for heat shrink than using a torch. Additionally, invest in a quality crimping tool like the one made by Ancor. This will ensure that you aren't penetrating the heat shrink on your butt connectors. Finally, make sure you label everything on both ends so that the next time you have a problem, it is easy to diagnose.

 

[Lucky Kali]

Considering rewireing my 2005 208 adventure!. Any suggestions appreciated!

 

[DennisG01]

Considering rewireing my 2005 208 adventure!. Any suggestions appreciated!

Why?

 

[Hookup1]

Considering rewireing my 2005 208 adventure!. Any suggestions appreciated!

Lucky Kali - You really should start a new thread. It's confusing that it is attached to an old one.

To DennisG01's question why? What year is the boat?

 

[seasick]

As several have alluded to, if it ain't broken, don't fix it

You may not realize what a big job a total rewire will be. Remember, all the original wiring is installed and attached to the hull and deck before those two parts are joined together.

 

[Ky Grady]

To DennisG01's question why? What year is the boat?

My guess would be a 2005!!

Sorry, couldn't resist.

 

[Sdfish]

Hi all - I agree with seasick, my dad was a mechanic for 40 years and he always told me, "if it aint broke, don't fix it".

That said, it did replace all fuse panels, bus bars etc when I freshened up my dash this year. All connectors etc were replaced, but I did not replace any wire runs.

 

[seasick]

Hi all - I agree with seasick, my dad was a mechanic for 40 years and he always told me, "if it aint broke, don't fix it".

That said, it did replace all fuse panels, bus bars etc when I freshened up my dash this year. All connectors etc were replaced, but I did not replace any wire runs.

Good point about fuse blocks and panels. They will wear out but even those can be a job to replace.
My advice if you are going to do rewiring is to but good marine wire, buy name brand connectors and crimp fittings, and but good quality wiring tools ( crimp and pinning ) .

 

[Hookup1]

My guess would be a 2005!!

Sorry, couldn't resist.

View attachment 27337

OK so we got that out of the way. All these solutions flying around. What is it that you are trying to fix that you need to rewire the boat?