Realistic Hull Value

Endorfinn

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Hi Guys,

New to the Forum.

Was wondering what you all felt the value of a late 80's Sailfish hull would be?

I know the floor has "soft spots", have not checked the transom yet.
No motors, no hardtop. Real project boat.

Thanks, Kevin
 

Fish Tank

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If you are planning on buying it, fine a good marine surveyor and have it checked out. Will turn out to be the best money you spent before buying a money pit.
B.O.A.T.- Break Out Another Thousand
Boat- noun. hole in the water into which one throws money
 

striped bass

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FINN:
Seems like a pass to me. Soft floor means that the wood core underneath has rotted and the floor/and or panels need replacement - many $$$$. Beyond that are very probable issues with the stringers and gas tank - more $$$$. I am assuming that the boat has no motor. The majority of the cost will be a new motor and you need to think threw the value proposition of investing in a new motor $$$$$ on an old hull with many suspect problems some of which may be structural. You will probably have wiring, hoses and clamps to replace as well. My suggestion is to move on.
 

Endorfinn

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Guys,
Thanks for the replys.
I guess I should have stated in my earlier post.
I am going into this with the assumption that the transom needs rebuild, the deck sections need replacement, along with the fuel tanks, etc..
I know the etc... list will be long.
This will be a true long term project.
But when i'm done, she will be solid and ready for new power.
So, with that being said, an 80's sailfish hull, in need of transom, floor rebuild, etc..

Whats she worth??

Thanks, Kevin
 

gw204

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NOTHING ELSE MATTERS said:
From Free to 500 bucks maximum.

Agreed. That's a good starting point. You can always go higher if you initial inspection reveals it to be in better shape than expected.

Is this the one in Annapolis?
 

BobP

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Are you going to inspect it ?
What are you allowed to do?
Is the gas tank compartment deck up or down?

Take a 3 lb steel mallet, bang on lower part of rear bulkhead, probably get thru bilge deck plate. Reach down to your arm pit.

And I mean bang not tap, do same for forward bulkhead ahead of gas tank, assessible from cabin perhaps?

You will know what is good as in not rotted, may still be wet.

Not rotted may mean stringers are still good too. If so I'd pay a a lot more than 500 bucks.

May have access from the inside to swing at transom too.

The mallet should not bounce and sound hard, should not make indent.

If you were in my neck of woods can come to my boat and do it to see what it supposed to sound like.

The bilge cover and gas tank cover are meaningless cost to redo and can be shot. The fixed floor areas to either side are more impritant to be solid, repair cost wise.

If they stop you from swinging the mallet, they should pay you to take it away, at least split shipping cost to you location. Need a heavy trailer and rig to tow this guy.
 

Endorfinn

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Once again,

Thanks for the input guys.,

Bob,
I plan to completely go through it, short of drilling the transom, stringers and bulkheads.
I will pull the two removable deck sections for sure, and inspect best I can.
I dont think I am limited in what I am allowed to do.



Bob and Fish Tank, I grew up in Greenport, fishing Gardiners Bay and Plum Gut, with occasional canyon trips out of Montauk.
I'm living in South Jersey for the last 15 yrs, really miss it up there.

Kevin