recoring deck hatch

[jim f 232]

Hi all,
I'm recoring the deck hatch on my 90 Gulfstream and looking for some advise, so far hatch has been removed, plywood blocks removed and skin sanded to eliminate any high spots.I purchased 1/2" marine grade ply and plan to make a one piece solid core rather than multipal blocks. Question is, because plywood is almost the same height (<1/16") as the flange of the skin should I leave a gap of 1/2" around the perimeter so glass cloth can be rolled up the sides of the flange to get a good watertight seal or run the plywood out to the edges for increased support when resting on deck flange and also help protect screws from being pulled through skin when installing.
Thanks

 

[gw204]

Check out my post at the end of this thread:

viewtopic.php?f=3&t=17393

It shows how I size and cut the core. The glass I put down over the core, goes down into the valleys shown and then wraps up the sides. Same with the extra strips I lay down in the valleys as well.

 

[jim f 232]

Thanks for the info gw204. Have a great Christmas!

 

[cgmiller]

JIm,

I am not near the craftsman that Brian is..his stuff is damn near perfect. I recored part of the hatch of my 90 Gulfstream over the summer. I used a piece of 1/2" or 3/4" plywood. I epoxied it to the hatch cover and put 4 screws to hold the corners while the epoxy set. The mount of the fighting chair secured the middle of the board. I did not use any fiberglass as I did not have enough epoxy to wet everything out so I just painted epoxy on the wood and poured it around the edges. Made a big difference. You can see pictures under my transom project thread. ugly compared to Brians work, but it made the hatch 100 percent better and my fighting chair is no longer like a hobby horse.