Red push button fuses in power box?

[grady33]

Does anyone know where I can order these red push button fuses? One is 4 amp and the other is 10 and they are located in the rear switch box in my 2006 Grady 330 Express.

I was replacing my CO2 detector down in the cabin and noticed I wasn’t getting power. The label in the box says these are for the float switches and I’m thinking they may also power the CO2 detector. They needed replacing.

 

[Smoothsailing]

Looks like one just popped up on ebay...

GRADY WHITE *OEM* 6amp KLIXON CDM PUSH / RESET BUTTON CIRCUIT BREAKER

GRADY WHITE *OEM* 6amp KLIXON CDM PUSH / RESET BUTTON CURCUIT BREAKER | eBay

CURCUIT BREAKER. GRADY WHITE. PUSH RESET. RUSTY RON'S MARINE SURPLUS. Hardware and instruction / installation manual not included. Item sold as seen in picture. MOREHEAD CITY NORTH CAROLINA.

www.ebay.com

Upon searching "6 amp KLIXON" it appears that the non-oem version is available on Amazon.

Hope the replacement project goes smoothly!

 

[Smoothsailing]

... forgot to mention that it appears the 4 and 10 versions are cheaper on ebay than on Amazon.

 

[Blaugrana]

Any reason you want to stay with the push button versions???? If those are for your CO2, shouldn’t they go to your fuse panel? If for your float, you typically have an in line fuse. Curious when Grady used those push button for floats

Do those breakers face outward through a panel???

 

[grady33]

Any reason you want to stay with the push button versions???? If those are for your CO2, shouldn’t they go to your fuse panel? If for your float, you typically have an in line fuse. Curious when Grady used those push button for floats

Do those breakers face outward through a panel???

Yes. They are visible from the switch box to turn power on to the boat. I’m not sure why Grady put them there but I like to replace with the same parts since the holes are already there. I may contact Grady tomorrow to see if they do it differently now.

 

[SkunkBoat]

not a fan of the red push buttons on Gradys. They are rust prone crap. Don't like the screw connection either. Had a bad experience with the House 40A button while 90 miles out in the dark.
Had to Macgyver it by flashlight.
I understand your desire to fit the same hole and be done with it but I would use blade type fuseholders with rubber boots for the Auto-Bilge pumps.


Are you sure that they have anything to do with CO2 detector?

 

[grady33]

not a fan of the red push buttons on Gradys. They are rust prone crap. Don't like the screw connection either. Had a bad experience with the House 40A button while 90 miles out in the dark.
Had to Macgyver it by flashlight.
I understand your desire to fit the same hole and be done with it but I would use blade type fuseholders with rubber boots for the Auto-Bilge pumps.


Are you sure that they have anything to do with CO2 detector?

Do you have a photo of the fuse type you are suggesting? Also, I’m not sure these have anything to do with the CO detector so may need to call Grady tomorrow and see what they say. I’m wondering if there is a fuse somewhere for the detector. Couldn’t find it on the manual though.

 

[Blaugrana]

Waterproof In-Line ATO/ATC Fuse holder - Blue Sea Systems

Engineering high quality marine electrical components for safety, reliability and performance

www.bluesea.com

 

[HMBJack]

I too have a 2006 330 Express.

Owned the boat for 11 years and I still don't know what those red re-set buttons actually "do".

As the name implies - what "circuit breaker" is this protecting?
And like - why not put it on the DC panel with all the other 12V circuit breakers? Why in a damp area?

4 amp and 10 amp. Hmmmm...

I'd love to know more about these two red re-set buttons. Someone please educate me.
Like the Original Poster - mine look ready for replacement.

Thanks!

 

[SkunkBoat]

they are back there because the have direct connection to batteries so that your auto bilge pumps (float switches) are powered even when your battery switches are OFF
Most smaller gradys have the fuse holders shown in above post. I think they wanted to make them easily accessible on the 330. Thing is, if they ever actually pop, you probably have a bilge pump jam and have to access THAT anyways.

 

[seasick]

In addition to the bilge pump direct feed, you may find breakers or inline fuses for things like CO detector (if 12v DC powered), stereo pre-sets memory , battery charger, etc.
The fuses or breakers are near the battery per ABYC . Should a circuit short out somewhere, you want a fuse to pop near the battery as opposed to a long length of wire overheating and burning.

 

[grady33]

In addition to the bilge pump direct feed, you may find breakers or inline fuses for things like CO detector (if 12v DC powered), stereo pre-sets memory , battery charger, etc.
The fuses or breakers are near the battery per ABYC . Should a circuit short out somewhere, you want a fuse to pop near the battery as opposed to a long length of wire overheating and burning.

The Klixon red push buttons are expensive and I would have to order from FL supplier and pay overnight shipping. Wondering if I could switch to this style circuit breaker?
There are 3 in box and the two on right are they ones I’m replacing. They are 10A and 4A. They 4A is apparently to the bilge pump but I had replaced them with Johnson Pumps and they require 12A so I’m guessing I should replace with 12 or 10A instead of 4. They existing 10A is for the radio or something.

 

[SkunkBoat]

they would work. You have 2 extra mounting holes to fill. I would get the ones with rubber boot or add a boot

 

[grady33]

they would work. You have 2 extra mounting holes to fill. I would get the ones with rubber boot or add a boot

Went ahead and picked these up. They say waterproof and thermal trip so I’m guessing they are good???

 

[loubeer]

In addition to the bilge pump direct feed, you may find breakers or inline fuses for things like CO detector (if 12v DC powered), stereo pre-sets memory , battery charger, etc.
The fuses or breakers are near the battery per ABYC . Should a circuit short out somewhere, you want a fuse to pop near the battery as opposed to a long length of wire overheating and burning.

Funny you posted this. Just last night, I noticed some rust debris under one red fuse button - the third one nearest the center. I have a 2003 330 Express. The amperage has worn off the face of the button, so I'm not sure of the amp rating. Any help/info would be appreciated. Why the difference in amp ratings if two of the breakers are wired to bilge pumps?

 

[grady33]

They are different because the original bilge pumps were different. I (as most with boats that old) have changed out bilge pumps and I went with Johnson 2300 GPH pumps which require 12A. According to Grady, you need to change those circuits to match what the bilge pump/float switch requires. I went ahead and replaced the two right ones that were 10A and 4A to 10A both. Here’s the photos. Need to plug the screw holes.
Hope I didn’t screw something up!

 

[loubeer]

I got the answer - it's 10 amp. I don't know what circuit it's on.

 

[loubeer]

I got the answer - it's 10 amp. I don't know what circuit it's on.

Thanks, Great Grady Captain for explaining the difference in bilge pump amp ratings. Also, it looks like the middle 10 amp circuit breaker is for "memory" - the verbiage was worn off on my panel.

 

[grady33]

Thanks, Great Grady Captain for explaining the difference in bilge pump amp ratings. Also, it looks like the middle 10 amp circuit breaker is for "memory" - the verbiage was worn off on my panel.

The original bilge pumps were rated for 10amp(aft pump) and 4amp(fwd pump) as shown below in the owner’s manual.

Didn't realize I needed to change them based on the requirements of the new pumps but make sense! Many of us probably overlook that.

 

[loubeer]

It's hard to believe, but my 2003 330 Express still has original bilge pumps, float switches, washdown pump and fresh water pump - and they work great! I have spares - I know I'll need them someday?!?!