Refurbishing Cockpit Bolster Pads
- Thread starter PFB1769
- Start date
Bob-
"Pink stains on cushions covers come from a micro-organism in the air that attaches itself to the cushion cover. This micro-organism eats away the plasticizer in the vinyl which leaves a pink looking stain. There is a procedure that will remove most pink stains from cushion covers. First, mix bleach and baking soda to form a paste and apply to the stain. Leave this paste on the stain overnight and wipe off the next day. It may be necessary to repeat this process 2-3 times to completely remove the stain. If you have any other questions, please let us know.
Customer Relations"
"Pink stains on cushions covers come from a micro-organism in the air that attaches itself to the cushion cover. This micro-organism eats away the plasticizer in the vinyl which leaves a pink looking stain. There is a procedure that will remove most pink stains from cushion covers. First, mix bleach and baking soda to form a paste and apply to the stain. Leave this paste on the stain overnight and wipe off the next day. It may be necessary to repeat this process 2-3 times to completely remove the stain. If you have any other questions, please let us know.
Customer Relations"
Go easy on the bleach. It will deteriorate the stitching and the seat / bolster will fall apart.
To Amigo and BobP
Thanks for the additional info. I plan to eliminate the sewed in welting on the sides and fold them as you mentioned. I'll include the welting on the top and side edges as is presently configured.
I also noted that the oriiginal vinyl has a plastic type of mesh in the bottom portion. (Obviously for venting the foam / moisture) I dont plan to try this approach due to the difficulity in sewing the mesh to the vinyl. Instead I'll use a hole punch and place some holes across the bottom. I believe if the covering is properely done, no water should seep into the foam. When I pulled off the covering on my original bolsters, the foam was bone dry with no indication of seepage anywhere.
I'll try to take some pictures as I go through this and post them.
Regards;
Mickey
1997 GW Sailfish 272 / Finn Crossing
Thanks for the additional info. I plan to eliminate the sewed in welting on the sides and fold them as you mentioned. I'll include the welting on the top and side edges as is presently configured.
I also noted that the oriiginal vinyl has a plastic type of mesh in the bottom portion. (Obviously for venting the foam / moisture) I dont plan to try this approach due to the difficulity in sewing the mesh to the vinyl. Instead I'll use a hole punch and place some holes across the bottom. I believe if the covering is properely done, no water should seep into the foam. When I pulled off the covering on my original bolsters, the foam was bone dry with no indication of seepage anywhere.
I'll try to take some pictures as I go through this and post them.
Regards;
Mickey
1997 GW Sailfish 272 / Finn Crossing
Seaquest "Chalk" vinyl
I'm getting ready to recover the bolsters for my 1997 272 Sailfish this weekend. I've received 3 yards of the Seaquest roll n pleat / "chalk" color as mentioned earlier in this article.
Though not 'white" it appears the "Chalk" color is lighter than the original bolsters. Granted, over the last 10 years, my Grady is also lighter from the sun.
I have not gone down to the boat yet, but will tomorrow to check the color match. I'm thinking that the original bolsters might actually be darker than the boat finish at this point, though one would have expected the bolsters to fade at about the same rate.
Anyone else out ther with color matching experience with SeaQuest and their Grady?
Thanks
I'm getting ready to recover the bolsters for my 1997 272 Sailfish this weekend. I've received 3 yards of the Seaquest roll n pleat / "chalk" color as mentioned earlier in this article.
Though not 'white" it appears the "Chalk" color is lighter than the original bolsters. Granted, over the last 10 years, my Grady is also lighter from the sun.
I have not gone down to the boat yet, but will tomorrow to check the color match. I'm thinking that the original bolsters might actually be darker than the boat finish at this point, though one would have expected the bolsters to fade at about the same rate.
Anyone else out ther with color matching experience with SeaQuest and their Grady?
Thanks
I am also reworking the bolsters on our 96 sailfish 272 – How did those who have the rounded rear bench seat deal with the curvature? Did you do it in one piece or cut and seam the back? Any photos?
Thanks
SBLGFD
Thanks
SBLGFD
sblgfd
I just picked up the coaming pads this afternoon from a local shop after being re-covered.I went with the "sea white" color.I looked at a sample of the chalk color and i also thought it was too white.I did ask about the curved seat and they said they were going to piece that in with regular material cut at the angles.I must say i was a little sceptical but the finished product is outstanding.They put the mesh back on the bottom and crimped in ringlets where the screws go in.They came out just like the originals.
Tom
Fyi They were able to re-use the original foam which was wrapped in plastic and moisture free.This helped keep the price down.
I just picked up the coaming pads this afternoon from a local shop after being re-covered.I went with the "sea white" color.I looked at a sample of the chalk color and i also thought it was too white.I did ask about the curved seat and they said they were going to piece that in with regular material cut at the angles.I must say i was a little sceptical but the finished product is outstanding.They put the mesh back on the bottom and crimped in ringlets where the screws go in.They came out just like the originals.
Tom
Fyi They were able to re-use the original foam which was wrapped in plastic and moisture free.This helped keep the price down.
I completed recovering the bolsters last month with the Seaquest chalk. Though they are a little "whiter" than the boat color, after 9 years, the boat has also lightened a lot, and after installing them, they matched up ok. (Still, I would suggest anyone planning to do this to check the color with a swatch of the fabric first). I also noticed while looking at a new GW at Tristate marine, that Grady uses a fabric that exactly matched the boat color. So as I said, the chalk may be a closer match than a more almond shade.
I took a lot of picture during the process and will try to post them. A few points for other planning this course:
1. After trying my first small bolster (the one on the aft gate) using a hand stapler I found I was not satisfied with the results
. Since I have several pneumatic tools and a compressor, I purchased a Porter Cable 22 gage upholstery stapler for around $75.00, and a box of 22 gage staples ($39.00 for 10,000) . Let me tell you, it’s a pleasure using this tool for the job. And I plan to use it for other jobs around the house as well as helping other friends on their boats.
2. The original GW bolsters have a mesh sewn into the bottom for ventilation and moisture control. Not having the ability to sew, I bought a brass punch kit with spare grommets and installed a grommet in the bottom edge every 12” or so. I also lined up grommets where the original were that had the mounting screw that locked the bolster to the vessel wall. (Do the grommets first by placing the fabric on the bolster backing and tacking it together with a few staples. Then use a marker to indicate the center of each grommet to be punched. After you’re satisfied with the placement, remove the fabric and install the grommets, then go back and start the actual recovering process.
3. Kept the original foam. For the 1997 272 GW used a plastic type of backboard with hanging clips on the vessel wall and 2” holes drilled through the plastic backing. In short, not water damage to the backing and the new 22 gage staples held tight.
4. I used matching Seaquest chalk welting that was staples over the new fabric just like the original. Gives it a very professional touch.
5. As for the corners…. :roll: It takes a little practice to get them tight. Need to trim the fabric a few times to get the fold the way you want. Be sure that the folds on bolster top side has the opening pointing fore or aft, and the bottom pointing to towards the deck. This will help keep rain water out. I also masked and sealed the slight opening in the fold with clear silicone. (Use blue masking tape to prevent the silicone from getting on the fabric outside the fold)
6. Also…when you start the covering process, begin in the middle of the bolster and work towards the end…, saving the folds for last. You need to keep a fair amount of tension on the fabric (top to bottom) to get a nice curve. If you don’t stretch the fabric enough, you’ll notice the fabric does not “bend” nicely at the top and bottom, and sometimes there are little crimps or tiny points in the fabric. Also keep tension on the fabric fore and aft as you work toward the end. Go slow and check your progress.
7. I also sealed over the staples and rear seams with two coats of clear silicone sealent, then upper and lower seams with a strip or two of duct tape. Maybe overkill, but I want to keep as much rain moisture out of the foam as possible.
As final note regarding the aft curved bench and matching cushion. Because the new bolsters looked so good, I now had to do something with the aft bench seat assy. One look at the curve of the fabric and the custom sewing of the seat, and it was off to a local Annapolis canvas shop that has a very good reputation and good prices. (Almo is the name of the shop) . I asked them to do the bench seat and L-shaped back cushion in seaquest pleated chalk to match the bolsters. Though I have not picked up the two reconditioned products, the total for the seat and backrest came to about $550. That was a bit of a shock, I figured more like the $300 range, but I know this shop does great work at a fair price, and this job is complicated, considering the sewing and other complexities of the L backing. (Oh well, it’s only a fuel fillup… )
I’ll get the pictures on this tread in the next week or so.
Mickey Finn
Finn Crossing
1997 GW 272 w/ twin Yamaha 225’s
I took a lot of picture during the process and will try to post them. A few points for other planning this course:
1. After trying my first small bolster (the one on the aft gate) using a hand stapler I found I was not satisfied with the results
. Since I have several pneumatic tools and a compressor, I purchased a Porter Cable 22 gage upholstery stapler for around $75.00, and a box of 22 gage staples ($39.00 for 10,000) . Let me tell you, it’s a pleasure using this tool for the job. And I plan to use it for other jobs around the house as well as helping other friends on their boats.2. The original GW bolsters have a mesh sewn into the bottom for ventilation and moisture control. Not having the ability to sew, I bought a brass punch kit with spare grommets and installed a grommet in the bottom edge every 12” or so. I also lined up grommets where the original were that had the mounting screw that locked the bolster to the vessel wall. (Do the grommets first by placing the fabric on the bolster backing and tacking it together with a few staples. Then use a marker to indicate the center of each grommet to be punched. After you’re satisfied with the placement, remove the fabric and install the grommets, then go back and start the actual recovering process.
3. Kept the original foam. For the 1997 272 GW used a plastic type of backboard with hanging clips on the vessel wall and 2” holes drilled through the plastic backing. In short, not water damage to the backing and the new 22 gage staples held tight.
4. I used matching Seaquest chalk welting that was staples over the new fabric just like the original. Gives it a very professional touch.
5. As for the corners…. :roll: It takes a little practice to get them tight. Need to trim the fabric a few times to get the fold the way you want. Be sure that the folds on bolster top side has the opening pointing fore or aft, and the bottom pointing to towards the deck. This will help keep rain water out. I also masked and sealed the slight opening in the fold with clear silicone. (Use blue masking tape to prevent the silicone from getting on the fabric outside the fold)
6. Also…when you start the covering process, begin in the middle of the bolster and work towards the end…, saving the folds for last. You need to keep a fair amount of tension on the fabric (top to bottom) to get a nice curve. If you don’t stretch the fabric enough, you’ll notice the fabric does not “bend” nicely at the top and bottom, and sometimes there are little crimps or tiny points in the fabric. Also keep tension on the fabric fore and aft as you work toward the end. Go slow and check your progress.
7. I also sealed over the staples and rear seams with two coats of clear silicone sealent, then upper and lower seams with a strip or two of duct tape. Maybe overkill, but I want to keep as much rain moisture out of the foam as possible.
As final note regarding the aft curved bench and matching cushion. Because the new bolsters looked so good, I now had to do something with the aft bench seat assy. One look at the curve of the fabric and the custom sewing of the seat, and it was off to a local Annapolis canvas shop that has a very good reputation and good prices. (Almo is the name of the shop) . I asked them to do the bench seat and L-shaped back cushion in seaquest pleated chalk to match the bolsters. Though I have not picked up the two reconditioned products, the total for the seat and backrest came to about $550. That was a bit of a shock, I figured more like the $300 range, but I know this shop does great work at a fair price, and this job is complicated, considering the sewing and other complexities of the L backing. (Oh well, it’s only a fuel fillup…
)I’ll get the pictures on this tread in the next week or so.
Mickey Finn
Finn Crossing
1997 GW 272 w/ twin Yamaha 225’s
Well I did ours yesterday about 7 hour’s total time. Used the Fabric warehouse materials, as in previous posts. Then put a blue Welting around the top and sides, I think it turned out well. We will take the bolsters to the Boat on Friday of next week. One thing I would offer – don’t bother with the electric stapler – On our Sailfish 272 with the plastic backed bolsters the electric stapler has about a 50% success rate. Just buy the air stapler and be done with it. I did take our curved seat back to a local sewing professional who does work for us here at the Fire Department. She quoted me +- $50.00 to recover – I provided the materials and cleaned the old one up so it was just a matter of using the old material as a pattern and putting it together.
SBLGFD
SBLGFD
I know this is an old thread, but my bolsters were already gone when I bought my boat eight years ago. I read through this to see if I could make them from scratch. While searching for materials, I ran across ready-made bolsters at Boater's World http://www.boatersworld.com/product/161660022.htm. Two 36" fit perfectly across the back of my 228G, then a 36" and 48" on each gunnel. I don't know how long they'll last, but they were cheap and installed VERY quickly and easily.
coming pads
I just finished my coming pads last week. I had to replace all the wood it was all rotted. I used 1/2' presure treated wood and used satinless steel staples. The electric stapler is a must. I did not put the backingon the wood for 2 reasons.1. I beleive the original wood fell apart because it never had a chance to dry. 2. The fact I used preasure treated wood should increase the life of the pads.
It came out great and was easy to do. The boat looks a lot better.
I just finished my coming pads last week. I had to replace all the wood it was all rotted. I used 1/2' presure treated wood and used satinless steel staples. The electric stapler is a must. I did not put the backingon the wood for 2 reasons.1. I beleive the original wood fell apart because it never had a chance to dry. 2. The fact I used preasure treated wood should increase the life of the pads.
It came out great and was easy to do. The boat looks a lot better.
Ok the Boater's World link took me to their web site. I then searched for bolsters and didn't geet anything. What does Boaters World call them?
sorry misspelled coaming pads
If you Googled coaming pads you will find what you are looking for. I had a local shop quote me $575.00 for 3 that I needed replaced. Mine had to be done from scratch because the wood to completley rotted.
I ended up doing it myself. I followed the directions from this post and it turned out to be a very easy job a little time consuming (around 7-8 hours). They came out great and my out of pocket expense was under $100.00.
Hope it helps.
If you Googled coaming pads you will find what you are looking for. I had a local shop quote me $575.00 for 3 that I needed replaced. Mine had to be done from scratch because the wood to completley rotted.
I ended up doing it myself. I followed the directions from this post and it turned out to be a very easy job a little time consuming (around 7-8 hours). They came out great and my out of pocket expense was under $100.00.
Hope it helps.
I have 25' Sailfish and the previous owner removed the bolsters and replaced with PVC trim board. I'm looking at making the coaming pads myself and have a few questions:
- It appears many use the Seaquest Pleated Chalk Vinyl which comes in 54" widths. The starboard and port side pads will be a little over 60". How you handle a joint?
- What thickness of foam should I use
- It appears many use the Seaquest Pleated Chalk Vinyl which comes in 54" widths. The starboard and port side pads will be a little over 60". How you handle a joint?
- What thickness of foam should I use
I don't remeber the exact dimensions of roll. I bought from a local guy on cape cod that does sails, cushions, etc.. I kept the original foam batting and just replaced the wood. By keeping the same batting and the same wood dimension it came out exactly as the original. I do not have rounded edges on my boat. It was just 3 seperate pieces so I don't know about the problem you have with the corner. I expect it would be easier to figure out once you break everything down and see how it was originally done.
Good Luck!
Good Luck!
1998sailfish
Well-Known Member
Re: bolster end welting
This may be of some help to you:
viewtopic.php?f=3&t=17460
finncrossing said:
This may be of some help to you:
viewtopic.php?f=3&t=17460