Remote Oil Tank Holders....

S

SilverLining

GreatGrady Captain
Joined
Apr 23, 2008
Messages
99
Reaction score
1
Points
0
Location
Punta Gorda FL
Finally accessed the oil tanks on my 2000 272 Sailfish. Removed them and found that the holders(brackets) are completely rusted through, the S/B tank was sitting with no hold down bracket or damper in place.

Changed filters, cleaned tanks, tightened fittings, cleaned area and removed remanents of the holders.

New holders for the tanks are quoted on the web at approx. $140 each including all parts(holder, damper arm, rods, etc.). Seems rich for something that will corrode again since there is no way for cleaning/flushing/etc.

Am considering installing modified plastic battery trays with hold down straps at approx. $15 each. Since width is about the same, will cut off the ends so that the length of the plastic tray will be about the same as the metal holders. Any thoughts or suggestions concerning the down side to doing this?
 
shouldnt be a problem...I'd put some rubber or plastic between the metal and the tank to prevent rubbing.....mine is the same way...since its just bent metal, I may just bend a new set out of stainless as I have access to a machine shop....forget paying 140 for a hold down..thats a total rip off
 
I have been thru this same problem. They don't last long and certainly if you have one that is in reasonable shape it is good to use it as a template for a stainless custom made piece of bent steel.

The battery clamps sound like a great idea if you can modify them.
 
Mine were shot, bad. Wound up cutting off 3" from the bottom and welding in new sheetmetal. For $140 each, you can go to a sheetmetal shop and have them bend you new ones out of stainless. The only tricky part is the bulge that holds the tank from slipping out but they can weld a small "U" in that spot. The top holder should be in usable condition, just clean off the surface rust and prime/paint. When you put them back in have some sort of a spacer between the boat and the bracket so water doesn't sit there and rot them out.
 
What's the entire tank assembly cost instead ?

Nothing wrong with DIYer solution.

Make sure tanks doesn't move or bang around into other things, and oil ine remains not pinched.
Any plastics trays should be self draining.

I originally belived my tank frames werre stainless painted, but nticed around the bo;lts some rust, good paint job those.

My old Johnnies had a much simpler design, an inverted narrow U channel under middle pass of tank (tank had the notch) with two stainless rods one off each end, stainless cross bar on top. The metal U rusted, but it was heavy and small and cheaper to replace. Two screws only
 
IMO part of the problem with the Yamaha oil tank brackets is that they are a solid piece of steel that sits flush against the mounting surface. Once water gets under them, it's tough for it to get out. Add to that the fact that the paint probably gets scratched up over time from things flexing ever so slightly and you have a recipe for cancer of the metal.

The brackets that came with my new (to me) motors were in good shape aside from a little surface rust. Before installing them, I sanded down all the rusty spots, primed and painted them. Then I attached some nylon fender washers to the bottom using some 4200 to prevent metal to glass contact.

IMG_8012.jpg
 
After modifying a battery tray so that the tanks would be very stable fore and aft, could not satisfy myself concerning restraining the lateral movement possibilities. Abandoned this approach and found a local boat yard parting out various boats. They sold me two of the brackets for $12.50 each if I would remove them from the two boats. Cleaned them up, primed, and painted. Us retirees have a lot of time sometimes.

Installed using gw204's idea of the fender washers to keep the metal off the glass. Thanks to all for the suggestions.
 
Brian, nice work on the nylon.

I just got lazy and grabed the caulk gun and fully caulked the contcat surface perimeter and screw holes.


Yamaha could have provided a full face rubber pad, like the windlass manufs provide.
 
BobP said:
Brian, nice work on the nylon.

I just got lazy and grabed the caulk gun and fully caulked the contcat surface perimeter and screw holes.


Yamaha could have provided a full face rubber pad, like the windlass manufs provide.
Click to expand...

Then they couldn't get $140 more 6 years later.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.