Removing and Reinstalling floor panels

[jmoneilthe2]

I had to remove the rear floor panel on my GW Seafarer 22 to expose the well intake and lines. I noticed there was a clear silicone surrounding the edge of the panel. When reinstalling the floor panel, is it wise to apply a type of silicone around the edge to seal it and if so, what kind of silicone?
Thanks for any help. John

 

[49pan]

Use 3m 4200. If you have to remove the panel at a later date you will be able to.

 

[ElyseM]

strongly suggest against 4200. GE Silicone II almond is a match and what i was told to use by GW. Secure with the screws and a nice bead around it.

GE Advanced Silicone 2 Caulk 10.1 oz Window and Door Sealant Almond 2813667 - The Home Depot

Visit the Home Depot to buy GE Silicone II 9.8 oz. Almond Window and Door Caulk GE5096 12C

www.homedepot.com

make sure you use exterior grade if you go this route.

good luck ron.

 

[seasick]

I don't advise 4200. It's an adhesive and not a caulk sealant. It may also make the lid very difficult to remove if needed later.
The GE silicone in almond is the way to go. Seal the lid after it is screwed in.
You may want to use a bit of sealant in the screw holes before the screws are inserted. That is to eliminate water seepage into the bilge area.

 

[49pan]

3m 4200 is made to be disassembled. It is not a permanent bond. Just what read about the product.

 

[Fishtales]

I'd use GE Silicone in the tubes avail at HD. It is what GW uses. I use it on the aft hatch every year as that is where the access is to winterize things.

 

[Fishtales]

If an older boat with gelcoat that looks more white than almond, I'd use white colored GE caulk. If newer, the almond color matches well.

 

[Hookup1]

3M 5200/4200 is too much of an adhesive. I'm a big fan of 3M 4000 UV stable but it's still too strong. I use premium GE white silicone from Home Depot for hatch caulking. Does the job, easier to remove and matches "Faded Grady" gelcoat color on older boats.

 

[SkunkBoat]

4200 will be way too hard to remove. That hatch is access to pumps. It will need to be opened regularly.
4200 will get black spots and look like crap.
4200 costs a lot more than Silicone

Everybody uses silicone.

4000UV isn't any better than silicone in that situation.

 

[Ky Grady]

Agree with others. GE Silicone II in Almond is all you need for your floor panels. I use painters tape to make a clean edge when I reseal my floor panels.

 

[family affair]

Looks like KY uses alcohol to remove the silicone. How effective is that?
I had a hell of a time removing all the old silicone from one of my hatches using goo gone and mineral spirits. Probably had 2 hours worth of cleaning and still didn't have it all off.

 

[ElyseM]

Looks like KY uses alcohol to remove the silicone. How effective is that?
I had a hell of a time removing all the old silicone from one of my hatches using goo gone and mineral spirits. Probably had 2 hours worth of cleaning and still didn't have it all off.

i scrape off as much as possible with hard plastic tools. denatured alcohol to clean and then scotch-brite Non-abrasive pads and Flitz.

 

[Sardinia306Canyon]

For any sunlight exposed seals 4000 UV is the best i ever used as it resist much longer to sunlight.
GE Almond silicone may match the GW color best but i don't use any silicone on boats as it may unbond after a while and will leak what no one wants.
I pulled a lot of floor panels and hatches on my BW 23 Outrage and the key for a reasonable easy removal is to use only a little bit to seal the vertical slit and not use it on parts where no access is possible, under the panel for example.
To remove it i first cut the bead with a cutter and once the panel is off then i clean the old PU caulk first with a razor blade and then with thinner and s scotch pad to remove the thin layer after using the razor blade.
Thats how we do this task here in Italy.

Chris

 

[Ky Grady]

Looks like KY uses alcohol to remove the silicone. How effective is that?
I had a hell of a time removing all the old silicone from one of my hatches using goo gone and mineral spirits. Probably had 2 hours worth of cleaning and still didn't have it all off.

Not really sure why I have the alcohol sitting there? I just use a razor blade and clean the best I can. Alcohol doesn't really cut the silicone. Once I get done, there's not really much silicone left. I just set the panels in place, screw it down, tape off and put the silicone to it.

 

[family affair]

For any sunlight exposed seals 4000 UV is the best i ever used as it resist much longer to sunlight.
GE Almond silicone may match the GW color best but i don't use any silicone on boats as it may unbond after a while and will leak what no one wants.
I pulled a lot of floor panels and hatches on my BW 23 Outrage and the key for a reasonable easy removal is to use only a little bit to seal the vertical slit and not use it on parts where no access is possible, under the panel for example.
To remove it i first cut the bead with a cutter and once the panel is off then i clean the old PU caulk first with a razor blade and then with thinner and s scotch pad to remove the thin layer after using the razor blade.
Thats how we do this task here in Italy.

Chris

So you have less issues with PU caulk not debonding compared to silicone?
We have a custom tile shower that the builder used PU (I think) caulk on. It debonded after about 1 year. He came back out and reapplied 2 more times. Same result. Reading the label on the caulk showed that it should not be used where moisture was present for long periods of time. After 4 hours of cleaning to remove the old caulk, I went to silicone and it has not budged in 7 years. However, I fear the day it does because it is such a PIA to remove.

 

[Sardinia306Canyon]

In the almost 30 years i am in boat business and miles and miles of caulking using Sika PU caulk or adhesive i never ever had it debonding, but had a lot of debonding using silicone stuff, both materials with throughly degreasing with thinner.
But you are right, i have debonding also in my house shower on marble, probably was too humid or bad degreased by the plumber.
From the feeling i guess ex owner used 4000 UV to caulk the seam between the rod holder board and the gunnel at least a year ago and it still looks nice and shiny and no debonding at all, but i am not sure what was used, it looks and feels as 4000 UV.

As Ky Grady wrote as well:
use a cutter or razor blade to cut thru the PU caulk and then shave it off with a razor blade, they can be bent to the right curve if necessary. leave either the remaining thin but clean film or use thinner to rub it off. Yes, it need a bit of elbow grease but i prefer that than a leaking seam.
Insted of a cutter PU caulk can be cut with a braid or monel steel wire, thats what body work shops use to cut car windscreens from the frame to replace them.

Chris

 

[seasick]

A common reason for caulk failure is applying a bead that is too deep. In general the caulk should not be thicker than 1/4 or so ( depth not width). If the space is deeper, a foam filler material like foam backer rod should be pressed into the joint to limit the depth of the sealant.
Silicone is a love hate material and there are better albeit more expensive options like urethanes. The beauty of the silicone is that is is readily available , not too expensive, and the almond color is a pretty good option when used on a Grady White off white application

A key point to make is that the old edges and lips have to be cleaned of all old caulking and silicone and old silicone is a pain to get completely off. New silicone may not stick well to old silicone.

An interesting observation I have experienced is that for some mystical reason, clear silicone is a better adhesive than the colored versions.

 

[Ekea]

FWIW you can get the exact stuff GW uses through Taylor Marine store on Amazon

 

[Fishtales]

Yup. Most hatches are taken up periodically. You want something that is easy down and easy up. 23 years with a Sailfish and Marlin, GE Silicone Almond color is all I needed.

 

[Twist]

FWIW you can get the exact stuff GW uses through Taylor Marine store on Amazon

There's a lot of options on there. Do you have a link to the one that GW uses?