Removing cupholder

[quantase]

Hi all,
I want to remove one or two of my cup holders, particularly the one at the helm on my GW 235. Does anyone have a good method in doing so? I tried to cut around the perimeter with a utility knife (carefully not to cut the coating) to cut the silicone, but it is not getting underneath of the cupholder lip enough. I also tried some fishing line to cut around without any luck.

 

[glacierbaze]

Plastic, or SS?

 

[Coastboater]

Tap it out from underneath after running a razor knife around the top lip. It likely has a drain line under there too.

 

[quantase]

It is stainless steel cupholder.

 

[DennisG01]

Assuming you've cut through as much of the silicone/double sided tape/whatever as possible... Wedge your hand inside it and rock it back and forth while also wedging upwards.

or

Use some plastic prybars (dash trim removal tools).

 

[quantase]

Thanks for the ideas. I tried to rock it back and forth with a great deal of force from underneath (it didn't budge); used the plastic prybars (couldn't get any of those really underneath the cupholder lip to pry it lose). This is some secure silicone.

 

[Sardinia306Canyon]

As it is a SS cupholder you can apply heat to soften the 5xxx the probably used.
Most safe your be clogging the drain hole and use boiling water, if not then a small blow torch or a heat gun.
Except the boiling water, be careful with other strong heat emitting devices and go slow. and have a helper with a glove to pushing twist from below. If not reachable or no helper available use something like a big pipe wrench to open inside the cupholder to turn/wiggle it.
Chris

 

[DennisG01]

If you get your hand on it from underneath well enough, try twisting (if you didn't already).

When you tried the fishing line... were you able to fully get it underneath the rim?

Hmmmm.... maybe they used 3M5200.... you know, 'cause apparently that stuff is good to use anywhere....

 

[Captglasshole]

Take some fishing line and run it back and forth to get under the adhesive. Keep working it around until it cuts all the way through it

 

[Coastboater]

If it does have a drain hole, or enough room to drill a hole through the bottom, you could improvise similar to a gear puller with a 6” bolt, a few washers and a spanner. Spanner could be made of wood with a hole for the bolt. Bolt and big washer underneath,spanner above, tighten nut from up top, like pulling a bearing.
If it’s glued in with 5200, I don’t know the name of it, but there’s stuff that dissolves it.
Maybe it’s easier to just leave it as it is and put a beer in it

 

[Sardinia306Canyon]

If it’s glued in with 5200, I don’t know the name of it, but there’s stuff that dissolves it.

I wish I like that stuff, and I am sure a lot of others too.
May you figure out a way to remember the name. that would be very helpful for a lot of boaters.
The only way to remove PU caullk or adhesive (3M 4200/5200/Sika 291/295) is first cutting thru and then shave off remains off with a thin cutter blade and finally use thinner to soften and rub off the latest, thin layer.
Heat will soften PU adhesive or caulk
Chris

 

[Coastboater]

“Debond Comapny, Marine Formula”

DeBond Corporation

Marine Formula™ is a specially formulated patented mixture that cleans and removes adhesives and sealants.

marineformula.com

 

[Sardinia306Canyon]

Thanks man!
Now I have to see if that stuff is available in Europe!
Chris

 

[quantase]

Good ole' heat worked (for a prolong time) with a lot of pushing, pulling, cranking (I needed to call the Incredible HULK) and cutting. They did a good job in sealing that cupholder to make sure no water seep in (a little overkill...but it would do the job to not let water in)! Thanks all for the suggestions.