Removing Deck Panel

mattttt25

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Location
MD
Model
Freedom 335
Bow deck panel.jpg

I need to access the bow thruster on my 2013 Grady 335 Freedom. To do so, I need to remove the deck panel at the bow. I've cut through and removed most of the caulk. But in several locations (about two per side), there seems to be a very hard adhesive. Razor knife won't cut through it. Any idea what Grady uses? I was going to try Marine Formula by DeBond Corp to loosen whatever it is.
 
I reached out to Grady CS, who responded very quickly. Panel is set with Plexus MA320, a two-part methacrylate adhesive. They suggested cutting through it. Not looking forward to that. Hopefully I can find something that will soften it.
 
Let us know what you find that works. I guess the newer boat panels are attached like yours, mine still uses screws and silicone to seal.
 
Debond should work. It contains a couple of polar solvents. You need to let it soak of course. Once it softens up you should be able to cut the sealant with a razor knife. If the stuff is thick, soak with debond again after cutting the surface with the razor knife.
 
A couple thoughts that might help...

-- Use a trim removal tool to start to pry up the hatch in areas, giving better access to those areas that need cutting, still. A trim removal tool is basically a plastic pry bar. Some are stiffer/stonger than others.
-- A metal pry could be used - a thin piece of metal like a flexible putty knife can help protect.
-- If you haven't, obviously a SHARP razor knife will work. You can get plastic razor blades, if you want.
-- Depending on how steady/confident you are, you could use a rotary or oscillating cutoff tool. An osc will likely be the easiest to control. These will heat up the caulk so do it in spurts or take turns at different spots.
-- A heat gun may help soften the material, making it easier to cut. Too much, though, and it will likely just melt back together.
-- When you re-seal, you really don't need a super-strong adhesive caulk. Any medium-strength is MORE than enough.
-- Bury a thin, strong twine (or heavy fishing line) in the perimeter before adding the new caulk. Don't overdue it with the caulk. We you remove it again, dig out one corner and then simply pull out the twine.
 
Thank you for the responses. DeBond responded to my questions and said their product probably would NOT work. I may still give it a shot, but not very hopeful.

This adhesive is very strong. Razor knife will not cut it. Most suggestions I'm receiving are to use an oscillating multi-tool or a rotary one like a Dremel. I will probably have both handy when I tackle this.
 
-- Bury a thin, strong twine (or heavy fishing line) in the perimeter before adding the new caulk. Don't overdue it with the caulk. We you remove it again, dig out one corner and then simply pull out the twine.

Learned this years ago. Used in on the cockpit hatch and the bridge hatch.
 
I would try an oscillating multi-tool. I would also call a local Grady dealer too as I'm sure they have had to cut through a few and could probably give some good advise. For these type of questions I have found the service departments of the local dealers more helpful then Grady customer service. Although Grady has been very helpful for most things.
 
IMG_9273.jpg

Success. Used the multi-tool with a standard wood/metal blade. The Plexus crap was like steel and didn't want to cut at all. I kept at it and slowly worked through it. I hit all four sides several times, but the panel wouldn't budge. 30 minutes in and the tool dies. Dead battery. As I'm about to throw it overboard, I get pissed and stomp on the panel several times. My son and I try to lift it and I see a slight amount of movement at one corner. I proceed to stomp around the edges again and pull. A little more movement. Several more times of stomping and pulling and it breaks free.

IMG_9274.jpg

I then sent my Bilge Monkey in to remove the bow thruster. Life is good.
 
Congratulations. Excellent work. Nothing is more satisfying than knocking a brick out of the wall every once in a while.