Repairing Teak Cabin door and Glueing teak?

ddog

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Need to repair the teak cabin door. It came apart at the joints, slats fell out. I have all the pieces. What is proper glue to use for teak? Should I repair then refinish or clean sand and glue all the pieces and apply finish last? One of the short pieces at the bottom that connects the long uprights is warped a little, can I straighten it by wetting it and using a weight? Any other tips if you have done this would be great.

Thanks!
ddog
 

gradyfish22

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Persoanlly if the teak needs to be cleaned up I'd do it while it is apart, 100% easier, doing the work on the door put togeather is a huge pain, I've done it before and it turns out ok, but never the way I want, only way to do it right is to do it apart then assemble. I use silkens on my teak, the matte finish looks great and is a lot less maintenance then teak oil. My door was done 6 years ago and still looks great, but there is always a soft top or helm cover on the boat so it is not in the elements much, my regular teak trim in the cockpit lasts 2-3 seasons with the silkens and no maintenance, then resand and reapply 2-3 coats and your done for a few seasons again. Teak oil needs to be applied a lot, depending on how hot maybe a few times a month to do it right, silkens is the low maintenance way to go. Since your dealing with wood, a good wood glue would work, I'd try and find one that is not water soluable since it might get wet over time, this would ensure the glue won't break down quick.
 

ddog

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Thanks. I had seen another post of yours about the silkens. My teak needs help, Starboard is convenient but very stark. I'm leaning towards it for the bulk head, but I'm not sure I'm ready to abandon all the teak just yet. Where do you buy the silkens?

Can anyone recommend a good brand of glue for teak?

Thanks

ddog
 

journeyman

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Teak has a lot of natural oil in the wood. That is why it's such a great wood for outdoors. When dealing with new teak wood always wipe the area to be glued with acetone right before gluing. It will remove any surface oil on the wood and help make the glue bond better.

That being said though, your wood is not new lumber and probably does not have the oil content that new wood does so acetone may not be needed but wouldn't hurt a bit.

Gorilla glue is good stuff but any carpenter's wood glue will work. They even make glue that is tinted dark in case you have some squeeze out that can't be sanded off.
 

journeyman

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Oh, and about the warped piece... Depending on how bad and the nature of the warp (cupped, bowed, twisted etc.), you could try soaking the peace overnight and then put a weight on it for a few days but it may be easier to replace. Steaming it would work better but that setup gets complicated and not worth it for one piece.
 

gradyfish22

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I would highly advise against starboard for a bulkhead, it is not structural material, will warp and does not bond well to...well just about everything, it is also hard to cut and expensive. Nothing wrong with wood and glass as long as it is done right, I agree grady cut corners in older models and did this wrong and did not seal it well, but this is the perfered method. If starboard was so great builders would use it, but none do for structure. Using it might seem appealing with all that the brand claims it can do but it really is not ment for that use and would not only look cheap, but would not provide any structure for your cabin putting more force and load on the other parts of your cabin only deteriorating the condition of your boat in the end.

As far as starboard for the trim, it is less maintenance, but very very hard to cut well and look good, and it warps and will change size a lot with temperature making it look wavy and cheap. Formica is a better option, a buddy of mine has white formica and it looks a lot better was easier to work with and does not get wavy, but it might be harder to obtain in sizes you need. I would stick with teak over starboard any day of the week, but the formica would be tempting. Glad the new boat does not have either, coaming bolsters are the way to go, eliminates these problems and is practical and makes fighting a fish more comfortable.
 

cdwood

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Did'nt have much luck with Gorilla glue on teak. West Systems epoxy will bond the teak and give you a bond that is stronger than the wood itself. Also, second the motion on Silkens. Lastly, marine ply is my preference for bulkhead replacement and use West to seal it, get as much to soak in as possible on the edges. That is were all water intrusion will take place.