I just purchased a 2002 192 Tournament. The fresh water washdown was not working. I replaced the pump, which got it working, but teased out another problem. The nozzle is stuck in the spray position. This nozzle appears to be the original. Has anyone ever disassembled and repaired the oem nozzle, and if so, do you happen to have a link to any instructions. Alternatively, does anyone know whether the nozzles used in the early 2000s are still available? Thanks!
Repairing washdown nozzle
- Thread starter hardasset16
- Start date
I'm unfamiliar with your exact nozzle, but isn't it just a standard garden hose nozzle? That you can purchase for a few bucks just about anywhere?
journeyman
GreatGrady Captain
Probably made by Scandvik. It'll cost you if you want what was original or close to it. Should be easy enough to find on their site.
reelserious
Well-Known Member
They are pretty easy to take apart. I use a bottle opener to unscrew the spray head. Fits perfectly. When the spray head is off you will see a brass nut. Unscrew the nut and you will be able to remove the rest of the assembly. Pay attention to how the spring is seated. Once apart, just clean all surfaces. I use a teflon grease on the o-rings. Give the spring a good stretch and reassemble. You should be good to go. Takes about 5 minutes. You can buy a new assembly from Scandvik as stated above.
When I saw the word "washdown" and "nozzle", I envisioned the common hose and hose nozzle. Is this something more like a sink faucet?
journeyman is exactly right. I have a 2004 model year Tournament 205 and it has this sprayer in the transom. Only difference is I have the black color. Both are available. If I were you though, I would submerge that nozzle in CLR for awhile and see if it comes back to life before trashing it.
https://www.iboats.com/shop/scandvik-tr ... andle.html
https://www.iboats.com/shop/scandvik-tr ... andle.html
Thank you for all of your replies. I was able to find the Scandvik model, and they refer to this as a 'transom shower.' Looks like buying new would cost ar
I'll give disassembly and re-assembly a try and report back with pictures.
I'll give disassembly and re-assembly a try and report back with pictures.
Ah, "transom shower". That makes more sense. For the life of me, I couldn't figure out why you were wanting to rebuild a $5 hose nozzle!
Yes, take it apart and see if it's crudded up. As mentioned, CLR is good for this - soak it overnight.
Yes, take it apart and see if it's crudded up. As mentioned, CLR is good for this - soak it overnight.
Take it apart an clean up the small plunger and spray with CRC or WD40, Have to do that to mine about every other year.....
Well, I took it apart as suggested, removed o-rings, tumbled the internals and then soaked all internals in CRC overnight. It looks and works as news good as new. I took pictures of the disassembly. If anyone thinks worth uploading I will.
DennisG01 said:Good deal! But don't used to this kind of "fix"... they're not ALL this easy!
I am learning this. I replaced the washdown pump and it worked initially. HOwever, now that I have re-assembled the shower, the pump is not kicking on. Any ideas? I have tried bleeding the water lines without success.
I noticed that tinned wiring was not used in the wiring of this boat, which to me is pretty ludicrous for a boat built in 2002 by Grady. I'm wondering if I have a wiring issue which is causing the pump not to kick on.
journeyman
GreatGrady Captain
hardasset16 said:
Remove the sprayer from the hose, hold on to it and have someone turn on the pump. If it runs, your sprayer is not fixed.
hardasset16 said:
I doubt that the original wiring on that boat was not marine grade tinned wire. PO may have been taken shortcuts.
Pump not kicking on... Check the easy things, first: Battery switch, master water switch, fuse. When you disassembled it the pump was obviously turned off, or you would have been getting sprayed in the face.
It could be the pressure switch on the head of the pump. They stick sometimes in the open position because they sit for long periods holding pressure in the open position. The little return spring in them is not very strong. Do like Dennis said and remove the sprayer, turn on the switch to the pump, verify there is 12v at the pump, then whack the devil out of the pressure switch multiple times with the plastic handle of a screwdriver. If that doesn't wake it up, take the cover off the pressure switch and turn the pressure adjusting screw in and out till it starts. You can jump 12v around the pressure switch to the pump motor to verify if motor is working. If the motor doesn't spin with a direct jumper then most likely a stuck brush on the commutator. Fixable.
journeyman said:
It appears to be factory installed, wiring color (orange with blue stripe) matches what the manual says.
The pump itself is brand new. I don’t think it’s a pump issue. When I first installed the pump a week ago, I turned on the washdown switch and there was a several second delay for it kicking on. I haven’t touched the wiring since. I’ll tinker with it some and try to figure it out. I will probably rewire this winter.
There is "marine" wire, and then there is "tinned" wire. I'm not surprised that the wire you found is not tinned - many, good, manufacturer's do not use tinned.
"Couple second delay"... sounds like dirty/loose electrical connections (+ and/or -). Keep in mind that corrosion can wick it's way up, underneath the vinyl sheathing (something tinned wire helps to prevent).
"Couple second delay"... sounds like dirty/loose electrical connections (+ and/or -). Keep in mind that corrosion can wick it's way up, underneath the vinyl sheathing (something tinned wire helps to prevent).
hardasset16 said:
If there is really a several second delay from when the switch is activated until you hear the pump spin and the boat is at rest, I wouldn't think it is the wiring . I am more inclined to think that the pump has issues. It sounds to me that the pump armature or impeller is frozen and after being put under some torque for a while , it frees up.
seasick said:
Good thought. I wouldn't rule out "dirty power" or not enough juice, though. Dirty connections won't pass enough amps quick enough. You'll get 12V, but the actual "oomph" (amps) to start the pump may not be enough, initially. Either way, it shouldn't be too hard to figure out.
This is relatively easy to diagnose in person, but it's tough to do via a forum. DVM, jumper wires, feeling/listening to the pump, hitting it with a screwdriver handle, etc... all good for diagnosis.
DennisG01 said:
You it the nail on the head. Hard to diagnose on a forum but there are simple and logical steps to help isolate the problem. To be fair, as an electrical engineer, some things seem pretty straightforward to me but may be a foreign tongue to others