Replaced Tansom Bang Cap as Preventive Maintenance - Just In Time.

wahoo33417

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I noticed that the creeping corrosion of the aluminum transom bang cap cap on my 2007 Sailfish seemed to have accelerated over the past year. I had this same piece replaced with Grady's polyelythlene replacement on my 2005 Journey and I liked the look. In this case, the work needed to be done before I risked a wet transom.

When I got the call from the Service Manager, she said it was the dryest, most solid transom that they had done bang cap replacement on. There was a tiny bit of seepage where the port side vinyl rub-rail end cap terminates, visible in the fourth picture. That was easy to address.

Other than that, the engine compressions were all between 200 and 190 and these 16-year-old engines and the AGM batteries look like they might get us through another summer. So we're ready to travel another section of the Great Loop.

But lest I lose my main point, and not to preach, but had I put this bang cap replacement off another year I'd likely be looking at a fair bit more expensive repair.


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Rob













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wahoo33417

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I am pretty sure the dealer just caulked in the new cap.There was no glass work on the bill.

Also, had the dealer replace a Bennett trim tab actuator which the marina's fork lift bent. For those who may not know, Bennett made these parts specifically for Grady and they cannot be bought 'off the shelf' or from any of the on-line stores. Even when I got the necessary "set number" from Grady, which got me the correct part number from Bennett, they still wouldn't sell me the part. Would only sell to a Grady or Yamaha dealer.
 

Rfazilat

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I noticed that the creeping corrosion of the aluminum transom bang cap cap on my 2007 Sailfish seemed to have accelerated over the past year. I had this same piece replaced with Grady's polyelythlene replacement on my 2005 Journey and I liked the look. In this case, the work needed to be done before I risked a wet transom.

When I got the call from the Service Manager, she said it was the dryest, most solid transom that they had done bang cap replacement on. There was a tiny bit of seepage where the port side vinyl rub-rail end cap terminates, visible in the fourth picture. That was easy to address.

Other than that, the engine compressions were all between 200 and 190 and these 16-year-old engines and the AGM batteries look like they might get us through another summer. So we're ready to travel another section of the Great Loop.

But lest I lose my main point, and not to preach, but had I put this bang cap replacement off another year I'd likely be looking at a fair bit more expensive repair.


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Rob













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Wahoo

I have a small diagonal 2" crack at the bang cap and I sent the picture to Grady who stated "the wood in that location will not rot". Replace the aluminum bang cap at a Grady dealer with a vinyl (?) cap and caulk. Can you tell me what the cost for this repair is approximately?
 

wahoo33417

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Wahoo

I have a small diagonal 2" crack at the bang cap and I sent the picture to Grady who stated "the wood in that location will not rot". Replace the aluminum bang cap at a Grady dealer with a vinyl (?) cap and caulk. Can you tell me what the cost for this repair is approximately?
Rfazilat: The total bill was $1,475.30. But my 'Palm Beach' dealer is probably more expensive than most. They charge $155 per labor hour. The parts, including the caulk and Sikaflex beneath the new cap, only came to $117. It was taking the engines on and off and then labor to actually replace the cap that drove the price.

I had this same work done on my 2005 Journey. I was a little late getting it done, because there was some soft spots beneath the cap. Fortunately they didn't go very deep. The dealer was able to remove the soft wood and replace with - i believe - some sort of epoxy.

The 2005 Journey had that Greenwood XL transom. It didn't necessarily rot, but it got soft. Hard to imagine that it would not once water seeps in and its held there, never allowed to dry out. But now I'm getting far ahead of my knowledge of Greenwould XL. But I did see the soft spots before I authorized the work.
 

wahoo33417

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Yamaha bought Bennett Marine in 2017.
I still don't get why they won't sell to a Grady owner. My marina was willing to do the repair. They even tried three different off-the-shelf actuators, all at an uninformed Bennett rep's advice. But once I took the boat to my my pricey Grady dealer, the marina's offer to pick up the tab was off the table. The marina manager who made that hand-shake offer was long gone and the new manager never really bought into it this deal.
 

Rfazilat

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Rfazilat: The total bill was $1,475.30. But my 'Palm Beach' dealer is probably more expensive than most. They charge $155 per labor hour. The parts, including the caulk and Sikaflex beneath the new cap, only came to $117. It was taking the engines on and off and then labor to actually replace the cap that drove the price.

I had this same work done on my 2005 Journey. I was a little late getting it done, because there was some soft spots beneath the cap. Fortunately they didn't go very deep. The dealer was able to remove the soft wood and replace with - i believe - some sort of epoxy.

The 2005 Journey had that Greenwood XL transom. It didn't necessarily rot, but it got soft. Hard to imagine that it would not once water seeps in and its held there, never allowed to dry out. But now I'm getting far ahead of my knowledge of Greenwould XL. But I did see the soft spots before I authorized the work.
Thanks Wahoo for the info. I emailed Grady about the crack and they said the Greenwood XL will not rot and it has aluminum sandwiched between the ply. "Replace the bang cap and caulk and your fine" was basically the information I received...The bang cap has very minor separation. I saw the transom epoxy filler on youtube and was curious about it.
 

Ekea

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Thanks Wahoo for the info. I emailed Grady about the crack and they said the Greenwood XL will not rot and it has aluminum sandwiched between the ply. "Replace the bang cap and caulk and your fine" was basically the information I received...The bang cap has very minor separation. I saw the transom epoxy filler on youtube and was curious about it.
wow

is any of the wood soft?
 

Rfazilat

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Well, he did say to contact a surveyor, but that was basically his position. I have not pulled the engines or the bang plate. I did tap with a hammer, but i'm not an authority.
 

wahoo33417

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I've not encountered aluminum sandwiched between the ply. What I have seen is aluminum bracing, visible from inside the bilge, to reinforce the transom.
 

Ekea

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I've not encountered aluminum sandwiched between the ply. What I have seen is aluminum bracing, visible from inside the bilge, to reinforce the transom.
this thread is the first i have heard of the AL layer
 

Saltyone

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There is an aluminum brace that goes across the transom, I believe it also ties into the stringers. Not sure what models if not all of them have it. I know at least the 265 and Marlin have them. See this thread for some decent pictures of it, and some of the repairs they had to do around it.

 

wahoo33417

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I believe that aluminum bracing tieing the transom to the stringers has been standard issue for most, if not all Gradys for many years. I recall that my 1995 208 had some version of it.