Replacing a bilge pump and switch

[ddjk1953]

I have a 2004 222 fisherman. Bilge pump not working automatically or manually at the helm. The hand hole cover for access is impossible to do this with one hand and it looks like the larger deck panel has to be removed. It is caulked in perfectly and I hate to remove it. Is this my only option to get at this pump? Appreciate any input. I did a continuity test on the switch and breaker and they both seem OK.

 

[Fishtales]

Most likely it is the switch or the pump. Regardless, you'll likely need access. You may be able to remove the entire access port to gain a bit more hole diameter, but from the sound of it, it likely won't do the job. If you do, you can get a replacement O-Ring and Deck plate assembly from Beckson Marine. You just seal in place and get a pop or screw in version.
If you need to take the panel out, you can simply cut the sealant (GE Almond at HD to re-seal later), remove the screws and pull it out. You trim all the edges on the deck and floor piece and can do a good inspection and cleaning of the underside and bilge area. I'd replace the switch and pump as the hassle is getting the access versus the cost in my book. Make sure they work via the float switch and helm switch, make sure all tubes that allow water to travel are cleaned out. Then screw back down and seal up. Use painters tape for a nice clean line on the floor side and deck piece. Use a plastic spoon (wet it) to make a nice smooth edge on the sealant. It really isn't that hard if you take your time.

 

[ddjk1953]

Most likely it is the switch or the pump. Regardless, you'll likely need access. You may be able to remove the entire access port to gain a bit more hole diameter, but from the sound of it, it likely won't do the job. If you do, you can get a replacement O-Ring and Deck plate assembly from Beckson Marine. You just seal in place and get a pop or screw in version.
If you need to take the panel out, you can simply cut the sealant (GE Almond at HD to re-seal later), remove the screws and pull it out. You trim all the edges on the deck and floor piece and can do a good inspection and cleaning of the underside and bilge area. I'd replace the switch and pump as the hassle is getting the access versus the cost in my book. Make sure they work via the float switch and helm switch, make sure all tubes that allow water to travel are cleaned out. Then screw back down and seal up. Use painters tape for a nice clean line on the floor side and deck piece. Use a plastic spoon (wet it) to make a nice smooth edge on the sealant. It really isn't that hard if you take your time.

Thanks. That is what I thought. Will have to cut sealant on two deck plates as they join together. The second plate is over the fuel tank. Want the sealant color to match. Thanks also for the tips about the spoon and painters tape.

 

[SkunkBoat]

Great opportunity to remove both deck lids and look around.
Don't be afraid. Its just silicone. It should be done every couple years.

 

[freddy063]

whats the pump look like? if it doesn't work at all the pump might have stuff stuck in it. have you try hitting it with a water hose to see if the water cleans out the stoppage? I have a older boat, but my pump just snaps out with two plastic clips, and then the hose and wire have to be removed. Do they still make them like that? post a picture of it.

 

[seasick]

I can't say that most likely it is the pump since I don't know if it has power AND a good ground. The first place to look is the connections to the pump itself. You may need to cut the old ones but you will have to do that to remove the pump. Do yourself a favor and remove the panel. I know that's a pain but not nearly as much as trying to work through that small access opening.

 

[Fishtales]

Great opportunity to remove both deck lids and look around.
Don't be afraid. Its just silicone. It should be done every couple years.

Agree. Get some Zep Mildew and Mold cleaner and you can spray everything down. If out of the water and positioned so everything drains aft thru the garboard plug, then just hose everything down and let it all go out the plug hole. Will look nice and clean and you can inspect everything.

 

[Fishtales]

Says a 1700 gal per hour pump. Going to guess either a Rule or an Attwood. You should be able to get an exact replacement (maybe even use the same mounting holes).

 

[ddjk1953]

Thanks for all great info. Removed deck plate and checked pump. It turned out to be a wiring issue. Decided to replace pump and switch anyway because of the age ( 16 years ) and the wiring also. Putting the same Atwood 1700 with a Water Witch switch with no moving parts.

 

[seasick]

Let us know how that switch works out for you. At first I though you got an electronic sensing bilge pump. I really don't like them, notorious for running down the battery. Your switch works differently but does use a small amount of current all the time. It also cycles when pumping based on what I read; 6 seconds to trigger and then 14 seconds of pumping. If needed the process repeats.
It does look like an interesting approach to bilge pump triggering.

 

[Fishtales]

I like the standard petal float switch. Been around forever - proven. Prob doesn't matter all that much especially if you are on a slip or batteries are monitored/charged.

 

[seasick]

Valid point but I don't know if his Fisherman 222 has a charger.

 

[ddjk1953]

Will let you know. It will be a month before I can get in the water. After i install it , if the water is on i will just fill the bilge and test it.

 

[seasick]

I like the standard petal float switch. Been around forever - proven. Prob doesn't matter all that much especially if you are on a slip or batteries are monitored/charged.

I don't want to say how the following happened but I had some gas got mixed in the bilge with non toxic anti-freeze. I don't know if that was all that got mixed because I had cleaned the bilge prior to winter layup. Over the winter, some chemical reaction occurred and a gel like substance formed. That gummed up everything including the bilge float switch and it got stuck in the up position so it never ran which I suppose was better than running continuously.

I had to take out the float switch to get all the gunk off as well as flush the bilge. All was well but the slime reminded me of a sci-fi movie.

 

[usmm1234]

If your original switch was one of the blue Surebail switches. I would keep using that if the wires are in good shape. Those are mercury switches which are fantastic. They outlawed them awhile back due to mercury. I took 2 of them out of my 2002 Grady to put Ultra Switch Jr’s and Shurflo 2000 bilge pumps in. But I sent the Sure Bails to my son for his boat. Since they did away with mercury. All the switches other then the Ultra Switch ($150) are prone to failure Within a couple years if not sooner.

 

[DoctorOctopus]

I will definitely be replacing my Float Switch with the water witch or similar product (Whale field detector). Float switches have been around , yes, as have the posts about stuck and failed floating switches. A continuity detector has no moving parts to fail. I guess it's possible for it to get so dirty as to be non-conductive but this is clearly more reliable and worth avoiding my boat sinking when I'm away. I doubt this has any current draw to speak of but will be happy to test that when I do for those who are curious.