Replacing Battery Charger

[grady33]

I have a 2000 Sailfish 272 and need to replace the Battery Charger. The current one is a dytek and just hums but doesn't seem to charge the batteries. Given it's age, I'm just going to replace it and wanted to know if anyone had any suggestions. I'd like to find something that would fit where the old one is (near oil tanks) and also want to try to avoid running all new wiring etc. Anyone have any suggestions. Thanks, David

 

[BobP]

What's the voltage at the battery terminals with the charger off, vs charger on? All other loads on boat turned off.

 

[Banana River View]

How old are your batteries? I also agree with BobP to check the voltage at the battery terminals with the unit on and off. The voltage should be higher if the unit is supplying a charge. Ditto the other loads being off.

Hate to see you buy a new charger when you may need new batteries.. BRV

 

[grady33]

Thanks for the replies. I have not tested this yet but will do so this weekend. I did have the batteries tested and replaced one two months ago. The other two tested were good. When I turn on the charger ... it just hums but the voltage meter is at 0. I will definitely check this and get back to you. Thanks for the help. David

 

[fishingFINattic]

I just had my ProTech 1230i die on my 2000 Express (not stock)
Remove the positive leads going to the batteries and check for voltage - I have none so it is going back to the factory.
This charger also has a polarity fuse that would kill output if blown - I would call the manufactur from the boat - multimeter in hand and have technical support go over testing with you.
Tim

 

[grady33]

Thanks again for the replies. I tested the battery charger and it is not putting out a charge so I plan on taking it off and checking it out and replacing it. Called Grady-White and they suggested replacing it with a 3 bank, 12 volt 30 amp charger. I've decided to replace it with one that is waterproof since it is located above the bilge area and I know will get wet at some point. The one I found that seems to work is the GUEST 2631A and have found it priced around $260-$275. Seems like it would be an easy process. GUEST says it comes with a AC cord which they said you can simply cut and connect it to the previous connection. Sounds like it should work fine. When I called my local dealer to get a price (was thinking of having them order it), they quoted me $675 or something. HIGHWAY ROBBERY! Anyone else have a better suggestion, please let me know. Thanks, David

 

[CKJR]

I have the charles 15 amp charger and found out that water was leaking on the unit from either the cup holder or from around the live well. My unit was mounted toward the port side of the batteries. The new one i made a plastic cover to prevent water from dripping on the unit.

 

[grady33]

That's where mine is mounted. We do a lot of fishing offshore and the reason I was thinking of going waterproof was because of water splashing up from the bilge area -- easy to do when your in 4-5 chop. Why is yours only 15 amp? Grady said I needed 30 amp. Thanks for the reply.

 

[seabob4]

For everybody's info,
If you disconnect the leads from a charger and check the output voltage, you won't see any. A charger relies on the return voltage from the battery to determine output. Doesn't matter who makes the charger. If there is no return voltage sense, there will be no output.

Turn on your charger and check the voltage at the battery terminals. It should be in the 13+ range. If not, then it most likely is the charger. Also check your in-line fuses in the positive leads from the charger.

The reason that chargers don't put out any amperage if they are not hooked up to a battery is for safety. A pair of charger leads left dangling in a bilge could do some wonderful arcing if they were allowed to touch.

For those of you interested, ProMariner ProSport 20+, 3-bank 20A, $220 shipped. Totally waterproof. seabob4@earthlink.net.

 

[BobP]

Had trouble with my Guest charger, dumped it, went with promariner 10A x 2, this season, ditto, working fine. I was getting lots of flickering at the lights with the Guest, and getting bright and dim. Think it wrecked one or more batteries in the process.

I have new one screwed into the transom, will never put anything back there not waterproof, promariner is.

 

[Gary M]

My original Charles 20A charger died and my marine electrican talked me into a Charles 40A unit to keep the 4 battery, 3-banks alive and in good shape. Luckily, he saved me $250 by ordering it through his company! We just did a 4 day, 3-night, sleep aboard trip to West End, Grand Bahama Island and had the fridge running the whole time and were on shorepower at night. Everything worked great.........

The nice thing about keeping with the same brand was that the mounting holes were the same which made the install a snap even though it was not easily accessible......

Don't know about your boats but my aft bilge rarely has more than an inch of water in it and I can't remember the last time that the bilge pump kicked on! We run 125-150 hours a year, mostly offshore.....

 

[grady33]

Really appreciate everyone getting back to me. Based on feedback, I think I'll get the ProTournament 300 by ProMariner for my Grady 272 Sailfish. Need 30 AMP, 12 volt, 3 bank so this should work. When I contacted Charles a few weeks back, they told me their chargers were not waterproof and they did not recommend them for wet areas. Since it will be mounted in the bilge area, I think a waterproof one would be a better choice anyhow. Any additional comments are welcome. Hoping to order this week. Thanks, David

 

[fishingFINattic]

For everybody's info,
If you disconnect the leads from a charger and check the output voltage, you won't see any. A charger relies on the return voltage from the battery to determine output. Doesn't matter who makes the charger. If there is no return voltage sense, there will be no output.

.net.

I am not so sure this is true.....

It is my understanding that some of the chargers act as a power supply also (you will always measure specified voltage on a power supply) - when talking with ProMariner technical support, the smoking gun was the test listed above. It may be that when the charger is first turned on, it puts out about 13.6 volts for the first few minutes, then goes into a float mode.

Tim

 

[BobP]

It's not going into float mode if you have load on batt, unless it has a switch setting for "power supply", even if it doesn't, if the voltage at the battery terminals of a fully charged battery with charger on stays between 13 and 14 volts most of time, no harm will come to the batteries (nor charger), at least wet cell type, they will also not discharge during.

Watch out for excessive water consumption.

Some chargers have an equalization state which is even higher in voltage than absorption mode to clean the plates but is very limited in time period.

I like the Charles products myself, can't use them in the bilge of my boat.

I've been satisfied with Promariner, even no interference on stereo radio where Guest charger did buzz it.

 

[bhemi]

how many amps do you really need?

I have 4 batteries in 3 banks. Two starters and two "house" batteries. I was thinking of switching out my charger as it is now 15 years old. I was thinking a Charles 30amp would be fine. Is there a better product and is 30amps enough?

 

[BobP]

1. What is existing charger rated for?

2. Any problems now with keeping batteries charged?

3. Is your ship's DC load expected to increase ?

4. Where is existing charger mounted?

 

[bhemi]

battery charger

The charger is original to the boat. (1992 Marlin) Mounted in stock location in behind transom inspection door. I had one "house" battery with one cell "cooked" dry. I replaced it and everything was fine but the whole system does not seem to be getting fully charged. I was out for about 3 hours on the hook and only had a stereo, refrigerator and the GPS on and the batteries went dead. The run out was only 40 minutes so the alternators wouldn't have charged them enough.

 

[BobP]

I'm seeing members report a lot of unexpected problems with the performance of the battery systems on their boats lately.

For those who are not DIYers, I can understand, marina mechanics and the like can't be bothered or don't know how to evaluate a battery's state of charge and capacity. Just another piece of throw away equipment to replace.

Members are believing thier battery systems should act like car battery systems, fine all by themselves for many years. That's only because the car battery is used to start the motor only, that's it. A few seconds and that's it - back to sleep.

Unless you use the boat battery for starting only, there is nothing likely to be found on any boat's instrument panel to indicate state of charge. You have to measure it or have someone do it for you, so that when you leave the boat until next trip, each battery is fully charged upon arriving for next trip, and you never take down a battery too far.

Blemi - your battery should have handled the load several days, not just a few hours. It was partially discharged when you thought otherwise to begin with. Not good.

Extended periods of keeping a battery not fully charged, also ruins it, and allowing the fluid level to drop too low is another.

The 30A charger may be good enough, it depends how long you intend to keep it energized to figure how long it takes to bring back the battery, and how far a battery is being taken down.
As simple specific gravity test taken periodically during the cahrger on duration will answer for you everything you need to know.

If I walked into a marine servce mechanic's shop and threw down a 100 dollar bill, for anyone to produce a specific gravity tool and chart, I'd bet the shop would be diggin in draws and cabinets and come up empty or with something busted and useless.

I had to figure out myself the cause of premature battery failure. any DIYer can do it, if they want to spend the time.

 

[jehines3]

My 4D missing a half a gallon of water (literally) still ran overnight fridge, anchor light, and 2 DC fans, and GPS on the hook for 10 hours. I NEVER leave my charger on while I'm away from the boat. I charge when I get back to the dock and thats it. I put the water in this week and charged for 6 hours to get the battery back to top shape. Specific gravity, I have to admit, I've never checked. I do leave a small solar panel on my house battery when away from the boat. jh

 

[downtown]

Just had my Dytek charger on my 92 Marlin changed out by my mechanic. My batteries were getting cooked. He put in a Guest 30 5/5/20 3 bank charger. It's quiet and it is working great.