Replacing Beckson Hatches

[Blaugrana]

I’m looking to replace the deck hatches on my tanks as they have seen better days. I’ve already tried resealing them but the screws don’t quite grab anymore and I can’t get the lid snug. So I decided to replace and was thinking about filling the current holes with marine Tex and drilling new holes.

Has anybody ran into this issue? Should I just get thicker screws?

Also, when replacing the deck hatches I was looking at Beckson DP64-N. How do these look on an older boat? Did anyone replace just a few or replaced all of them? The other hatches look fine but I’m not sure if the two different designs make an eye sore (screw in vs pop up).

 

[Fishtales]

You can fill, rotate the pattern and drill new ones if desired. I think this would be better than bigger screws. You want to ensure the screws are as flush as possible to mitigate trip hazard.
I changed some in the past. I went with the screw in version for the eurotransom area as I wanted a secure cover and was more worried about function than fit. GW uses them and as I recall you have the right number for the pop in version, which for me is fine in the cockpit and helm areas as fit (low profile) is desired. Easy project, just seal well with the GE silicone or other sealant that can be removed if you have to. They will be darker likely as they are colored to match the new GW gelcoat, but will fade over time.

 

[Blaugrana]

I’ll double check the part number as I wanted to use the screw in. However, I thought the profile design was the same except one is screw in while the other is pop out. Are the screw ins thicker and not recessed like the pop ins???

 

[Hookup1]

I did two in the cockpit this year. Use a better caulk like 3M 4000. I would use same size but longer machine screws and thru bolted.

 

[Blaugrana]

I did two in the cockpit this year. Use a better caulk like 3M 4000. I would use same size but longer machine screws and thru bolted.

thanks any chance you can take a pic of how they look? I was thinking thru bolting as welll or at least those screws that are no longer catching.

 

[Hookup1]

I'll send a picture over to you later today. I'm just finishing up replacing both sets of throttle/shift cables and the deck is a mess.

I was replacing the deck coring (wet) and the holes were filled in. The hole pattern was slightly off the original so I re-drilled and used the same screws. Since I had the deck up I was able to caulk around the edges of the deck port. You can probably get some caulk around there with deck in place. I bought white ones. They seem a little bright but the off-white ones I looked at were too dark.

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[HMBJack]

You are performing an excellent improvement to your Grady. And, Fishtales advice is spot on...

Those pop out lids leak over time. The screw in type is simply a better design on all levels.

While it doesn't apply to you (Seafarer), replacing the hatches in the Euro-transom area is key.
This is a weak link in all Gradys in my opinion.
If one of those pop out lids comes out in a rough sea, you'll quickly fill your boat with seawater and roll your boat (it has happened).

When I replaced mine (all of them BTW), I used 3M 4200 Quick Cure. When that stuff sets, you won't even need screws, but put them in for appearance sake...

I'm a fan of 4200 as it's rated for below waterline use and remains non-permanent (unlike 5200).

 

[Hookup1]

3M 4200/5200 is great stuff but not UV stable. 3M 4000 has similar properties but is UV stable.

 

[Blaugrana]

Would I need it to be UV stable if not exposed to the sun?

 

[HMBJack]

Would I need it to be UV stable if not exposed to the sun? <<< Nope.

 

[Blaugrana]

Thanks...Thinking of using the 4200 underneath and then debating whether to use a product like 4000 on the outside perimeter to prevent water from entering. Maybe overkill???

 

[Fishtales]

I wouldn't put anything on the outside perimeter. If the gasket is new and well adhered to the deck and the plate, you will be fine.

 

[Hookup1]

There is no gasket between the deck port and the deck. You are really creating a gasket with the caulk. Interesting thing I found is that over time nothing sticks to the deck ports. Undo your screws and pry the outer ring up and they are clean. When you bed it crank the screws down but not super tight - squish most of the caulk out and cleanup. Leave enough caulk to form a gasket.

I've switched to 4000 for caulking the deck hatches. I previously used a high quality GE white silicone. I switched because the GE silicone never stayed looking good. 4000 is a good alternative that is uv stable, good adhesive properties yet easy to remove.

Since I had a tube of 4000 open I used it for the deck ports. You don't need uv protection for this job. 4200 is fine. Perimeter is almost invisible - I wouldn't worry about it.

My deck ports are pop-in's over the fuel tanks. Since I don't really don't go in there often I'm planning to clean them up and use a clear GE silicone to seal the edges.

 

[drbatts]

In the past I have filled these small holes with 5 minute epoxy and re-drilled. Then just seal the hatch with 3m 4000. I do like the idea of filling the holes then rotating and redrilling. But the 5 minute epoxy has worked well for me.

 

[HMBJack]

The top of my fuel tanks were always black and dirty with the pop out hatches. When I switched everything over to the screw in types, they stay dry dry dry and clean as a whistle! The pops outs look better (probably why Grady still uses them), but the screw in types are functionally waaaay better. Just sayin.

 

[Blaugrana]

I’m sold on the screw in ones. I put new gaskets on all of them and it still doesn’t stop the water from coming through as you don’t know if the gaskets creases or gets unaligned when you snap it back into the hatch.

My tanks seem to be dirty right where the hatches are and gets cleaner as you move away from it. I’ll take pictures once I remove the tops and share to see if my assumption is accurate in the hidden spots.

 

[Fishtales]

There is no gasket between the deck port and the deck. You are really creating a gasket with the caulk. Interesting thing I found is that over time nothing sticks to the deck ports. Undo your screws and pry the outer ring up and they are clean. When you bed it crank the screws down but not super tight - squish most of the caulk out and cleanup. Leave enough caulk to form a gasket.

I've switched to 4000 for caulking the deck hatches. I previously used a high quality GE white silicone. I switched because the GE silicone never stayed looking good. 4000 is a good alternative that is uv stable, good adhesive properties yet easy to remove.

Since I had a tube of 4000 open I used it for the deck ports. You don't need uv protection for this job. 4200 is fine. Perimeter is almost invisible - I wouldn't worry about it.

My deck ports are pop-in's over the fuel tanks. Since I don't really don't go in there often I'm planning to clean them up and use a clear GE silicone to seal the edges.

The Beckson deck plates come with a black rubber gasket that goes between the hard mounted piece of the deck piece and the deck. I would still add a sealant on both sides of the rubber.

 

[Hookup1]

The Beckson deck plates come with a black rubber gasket that goes between the hard mounted piece of the deck piece and the deck. I would still add a sealant on both sides of the rubber.

I just bought 3 Beckson deck plate kits - no gaskets. 1997 ones has no gaskets either. Just caulk them in which is ok.

 

[Blaugrana]

I just ordered 5 new hatches today directly from Beckson to get the Grady color. I’ll let you know if they have the gaskets. The old ones on my 2000 228 didn’t have any other than the sealant that acted as a gasket.

 

[Ky Grady]

I bought 3 new Beckson inspection plates from Grady to go in my fuel tank deck panels and they had no gasket, neither did the ones I removed on my 2004 228.