First off I'd like to say that after fishing in my good buddys old 20' Grady, I decided I had to have one. These boat hulls are awesome! Our last outing we were fishing in 6-8 footers out in Lake Michigan and we comfortable. So after some long drives looking at about any Grady for sale in my area, I ended up buying an 88 Sailfish with twin yami 200's and a 15hp kicker. I bought it knowing that the fuel tank covers were soft and desperately needed a re-core job, pretty common from what I understand, and I didn't think it was a big deal. After removing the deck, I have discovered that there was a ton of sludge and fuel residue on the tanks, fuel lines are all shot, and there seemed to be some post factory 2"x4" lumber installed over the tanks as a support for the rotting deck panels. I read on here in a few places that a good tank supplier is Florida Marine Tanks (I think) and seen that on both the main and auxilary tanks, it has their label on them. Are these possibly factory tanks? I plan on removing both tanks and checking them for corrosion, leaks, and points of wear. If all is good with the tanks, I will clean and re-install. Should I coat the tanks with anything to retard any further possibility of corrosion, or should I just put them back the way they were? Does anyone ever foam these tanks in? If so, what do you use? And now for my really hard task, After removing the fuel fill hoses from the tanks and looking inside of them, I noticed blister-like bubbles on the inside of the hoses. I know this isn't good and need to replace them but how?!? They are buried under and behind it seems everything. I'm not opposed to put in a new inspection port to help feed them through stringers and bulkheads but I don't want to litter my deck with numerous inspection plates. This seems to be a next to impossible task. Has anyone ever attempted this on their own and can anyone help with tips? Thanks a ton in advance!
replacing fuel fill hoses on my 25 sailfish
- Thread starter leafybug
- Start date
bug congratulations on the Grady.
I don't know how the fill hose on your sailfish run but on my voyager I just replaced the gas vent hoses and it was a real pita.
On my voyager I think replacing the main tank filler hose would not be that bad but the aux. tank would be.
I had to cut an access hole in front of the captain chair to get to a stringer in order to enlarge the hole for the hose to fit through.
Your sailfish may be completely different but good luck in advance on the task.
I don't know how the fill hose on your sailfish run but on my voyager I just replaced the gas vent hoses and it was a real pita.
On my voyager I think replacing the main tank filler hose would not be that bad but the aux. tank would be.
I had to cut an access hole in front of the captain chair to get to a stringer in order to enlarge the hole for the hose to fit through.
Your sailfish may be completely different but good luck in advance on the task.
Here are two old threads that may help you.
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=8357&p=53331#p53331
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=13032&p=86635#p86635
The Florida tanks are, indeed, the original tanks. DO NOT "foam-in" the tanks whether you replace them or not.
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=8357&p=53331#p53331
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=13032&p=86635#p86635
The Florida tanks are, indeed, the original tanks. DO NOT "foam-in" the tanks whether you replace them or not.
Leafy - I replaced the fill and vent hoses on my boat a couple of winters ago. I think our boats are similar but mine being an I/O does not have aux. tank. Does your boat have the storage area aft of the head and below the helm area? Access to that area being under the sink in the head? The fills are located on the rail to stb. of the helm area? If so may be able to give you some clues to access the hoses. The wood you speak of is probably factory, mine had the same thing and I replaced it.
The hoses can be a major pain. I make dowels to fit inside the hose then screwed the new and old hose to the dowel and pulled the new hose with the old hose. It's going to fight you most of the way, I think they caulked where the hose goes through the bulkheads. Get a friend to help so one can push while the other pulls. You may need to cut an access plate to get to the hoses at the fills. No matter what pull the tanks. Clean them up and if there isn't any pitting coat them with coal tar epoxy and put'm back in, otherwise get new tanks from your best supplier (Florida Marine is factory). While the tanks are out also inspect the stringers hopefully they're in good shape. Drill the hatch screw holes in the stringers oversize and fill them with epoxy then drill a new hole when it's time to put the hatches back in. It'll ensure no water gets in the stringers from a leaky screw.
Put it back in the same way Grady did it, worked for 20+ years (just seal the screw holes). You can foam it back in but I wouldn't fill the whole compartment with foam. If you have a coffin then definitely use foam because there isn't anything to screw into.
If you have any questions or problems, post'm up.
Put it back in the same way Grady did it, worked for 20+ years (just seal the screw holes). You can foam it back in but I wouldn't fill the whole compartment with foam. If you have a coffin then definitely use foam because there isn't anything to screw into.
If you have any questions or problems, post'm up.
ok well after underestimating how much fuel was really in the main tank because of a non-functioning or malfunctioning gas gauge I managed to siphon out about 35 gallons of gas and removed the tank. Other than being really filthy, the bilge area didnt look too bad but it was getting pretty dark outside. Where do I find new fuel level sending units? Are those a generic part or is it ussually from the tank manufacturer? Are the rubber looking straps just strips or rubber meant to pad the tanks to prevent chaffing?
Jeff- yes I have an access through the head into a storage area under the helm but I think my fish box is partially in the way. I will for sure check it out in further depth, thanks
Grog- thats what I was thinking too, just attach the new and the old without any hose clamps and pull them thru as one long piece. Which way did you go, from fill to tank or tank to fill? Do you think one way works better or does it not matter?
Also, what are the pros and cons to "foam in" the tanks?
Thanks a lot guys, this is becoming a fairly large project for this late in the fall
Jeff- yes I have an access through the head into a storage area under the helm but I think my fish box is partially in the way. I will for sure check it out in further depth, thanks
Grog- thats what I was thinking too, just attach the new and the old without any hose clamps and pull them thru as one long piece. Which way did you go, from fill to tank or tank to fill? Do you think one way works better or does it not matter?
Also, what are the pros and cons to "foam in" the tanks?
Thanks a lot guys, this is becoming a fairly large project for this late in the fall
I pulled form the fill end mostly because it was easier to screw the hoses to the dowel. It still took quite a bit of muscle to get the fill through.
You have me thinking about foaming, it will distribute the load better but you have to fabricate dams so the foam doesn't fill the whole cavity.
I'll take working on projects late Fall than Summer any day. June and July were BRUTAL this year. The combination of the heat, lack of shade and vinylester fumes (the working time was ridiculously short) got old fast.
You have me thinking about foaming, it will distribute the load better but you have to fabricate dams so the foam doesn't fill the whole cavity.
I'll take working on projects late Fall than Summer any day. June and July were BRUTAL this year. The combination of the heat, lack of shade and vinylester fumes (the working time was ridiculously short) got old fast.
ROBERTH
GreatGrady Captain
I am very interested in this one also as I am planning on tank removal, inpsection and replacement of all hoses.
On my previous boat, I removed the fuel tank of 20 years. It had some deep pitting where the rubber straps were. I cleaned the tank, sanded it thoroughly, used Marine Tex, epoxy primer to fill and strengthen the areas of pitting, resanded and then coated the entire tank with a layer of 6oz fiberglass mat with polyester resin, just to stop further corrosion on the tank. I then reinstalled, rested on some PVC for drainage from front to back of boat, then filled with closed cell foam. Had to make a top so I could keep the foam from coming up too high and also helped mold it. Just used a piece of plywood with plastic on it so it would pull free from the cured foam. Also put a several holes in the top with a hole saw to allow excess pressure and foam to escape.
2 years later, I pulled the tank again due to a mistake I made on the drainage pipes and had to cut the foam around the tank.Man, that stuff is really good at holding the tank in place! But, end result was no corrosion or any issue with the coating. Tank was very sound.
One thing to worry some with is tank expansion due to heat, etc. I think once the tank is foamed in, it will restrict the movement of the tank. The expansion now will be reliant solely upon the vent system, so make sure it is clear. I think a positive to the foam is less drastic temperature changes to minimize condensation....a big plus with the ethanol fuels. Also, stops any movement of the tank and adds more protection. Just make sure you have good drainage under tank!
Now, 3 years later, the tank is still going strong, no issues.
If I redo a tank now, I would likely use a good Epoxy resin due to Ethanol is known to attack some polyester resins, or I will check for a cheaper polyester resin that claims it is ethanol safe.
GROG, I am interested in the Coal Tar Epoxy...where best to get this? Did a quick search and did not seem like anywhere local carries it like Lowes, Home Depot etc....Looks like they do have a suggested primer before use....did you use the primer?
On my previous boat, I removed the fuel tank of 20 years. It had some deep pitting where the rubber straps were. I cleaned the tank, sanded it thoroughly, used Marine Tex, epoxy primer to fill and strengthen the areas of pitting, resanded and then coated the entire tank with a layer of 6oz fiberglass mat with polyester resin, just to stop further corrosion on the tank. I then reinstalled, rested on some PVC for drainage from front to back of boat, then filled with closed cell foam. Had to make a top so I could keep the foam from coming up too high and also helped mold it. Just used a piece of plywood with plastic on it so it would pull free from the cured foam. Also put a several holes in the top with a hole saw to allow excess pressure and foam to escape.
2 years later, I pulled the tank again due to a mistake I made on the drainage pipes and had to cut the foam around the tank.Man, that stuff is really good at holding the tank in place! But, end result was no corrosion or any issue with the coating. Tank was very sound.
One thing to worry some with is tank expansion due to heat, etc. I think once the tank is foamed in, it will restrict the movement of the tank. The expansion now will be reliant solely upon the vent system, so make sure it is clear. I think a positive to the foam is less drastic temperature changes to minimize condensation....a big plus with the ethanol fuels. Also, stops any movement of the tank and adds more protection. Just make sure you have good drainage under tank!
Now, 3 years later, the tank is still going strong, no issues.
If I redo a tank now, I would likely use a good Epoxy resin due to Ethanol is known to attack some polyester resins, or I will check for a cheaper polyester resin that claims it is ethanol safe.
GROG, I am interested in the Coal Tar Epoxy...where best to get this? Did a quick search and did not seem like anywhere local carries it like Lowes, Home Depot etc....Looks like they do have a suggested primer before use....did you use the primer?
A few years ago I bought some for the new fuel tank in my Mako from us composites and I bought some rustoleum brand this spring from Grainger. I ordered it online and was reasonable. I used a 1/2 gallon to recoat the main 90 gallon tank in my Gulfstream and wull use the rest for the auxillary tank when I yank it in the spring..
Does anybody reccomend a certain type of fill hose? I see Jamestowne Distributers has a couple of different types, all for gas or diesel but drastically different pricing.
Pez- in a thread you mentioned cutting access through an longitudal bulkhead, is this a stringer? I assume that the stringers are slightly less load bearing on outboard boats as opposed to inboard boats?
I have a basic understanding of fiberglass work and I'm not too afraid of cutting, but I dont want to compromise the integrity of the main structure. I really appreciate all the help guys.
Pez- in a thread you mentioned cutting access through an longitudal bulkhead, is this a stringer? I assume that the stringers are slightly less load bearing on outboard boats as opposed to inboard boats?
I have a basic understanding of fiberglass work and I'm not too afraid of cutting, but I dont want to compromise the integrity of the main structure. I really appreciate all the help guys.
When I did mine I had to get in there and enlarge some of the original holes with a rotozip. I then was able to coat the inside of the hole with resin. None of the holes had been coated at the factory after drilling. From what I could see on my boat the tanks and fuel lines were installed before the deck was dropped on and in a couple of spots the fuel line was compressed. It was a tight fit but after enlarging the holes I was able to get the new line up to the fill. The vent went in easier. I don't remember what I used for fuel line. I think I used the good stuff as I did not want to go in there again - ever.
No. The stringers run longitudinally underneath the fiberglass "pads" upon which the fuel tanks rest. If you look at my "before" picture (of the old filthy, corroded main tank) you'll see that the fill and vent hoses run from the tank to the starboard side of the tank compartment, and exit the compartment through two round holes which the factory cut through the glassed/plywood. After heroic attempts to extricate the hoses by pulling them through those existing holes, my professional tank fabricator gained access by cutting a generous, rectangular opening adjacent to them. He saved the cut-out piece and glassed it back into place once the old hoses had been removed and the new hoses were partially installed.
I did not have to make any of the holes through the stringers (2) larger, but I did have to cut a hole in the deck to get the new fill hose for the main tank through the hole in the stringer. I was able to cut the end of the vent hose to a point and put a rope in it and get it through the holes, but the large heavy fill hose (good expensive stuff..1x thing for me too) I could not get to make the turn through the stringer and I could not reach it from the piss poor access hole. I also had to cut a hole in the gunnel inboard of the fuel fills to get the deck fittings out, which were through bolted and not screwed into the gunnel. No way to get to the nuts on the bolts w/o getting inside of the gunnel. I had to drill out the heads of the bolts that I could not get to the nuts...guys at the plant put these things together in a way preventing future maintenance..bastids...for example the nut for the hose clamps was against the gunnel..no way to loosen..
ok well the main tank is out and cleaned. looks like it was shot with a shot gun! corrosion everywhere on the top of the tank. I called Florida Marine Tanks and they said that it was 1300 for the main and 750 for the auxillary. I'm waiting now on some local fab shops to get back with me. Now my question is, what is the benefit of twin tanks? I know a lot of you guys are ocean goers and tend to burn up a lot more fuel but this is a great lakes boat and I cant see us needing all that extra fuel just getting old in the tanks. Every boat I've had (which were all much bigger) had twin tanks but they were large saddle tanks on each side of the boat. Would it benefit me to eliminate the auxilary tank and make a neat storage bin or fish box in its place? thanks again for your thoughts
If you don't need the fuel what the heck don't replace the tank. My I/O just has the main tank. With outboards they installed the aux tank. You would not be hauling around the weight of the extra fuel so that might be a plus. Before you pull the tank you would want to run some numbers and make sure you don't need the extra fuel. I remember a thread somewhere about someone doing exactly what you are thinking about - ie creating a storage locker. I don't recall seeing any pictures of a finished product though. If you do it please post some pics.
many boats were designed with 10 hours cruising range...twin 80's vintage 200s would burn 20 gallons per hour...i ran off the main tank all summer and did not burn more than 40 gallons
ROBERTH
GreatGrady Captain
I run out about 60 miles, troll all day and run back and usually burn around 90 gallons. Twin 200 HPDI's, so that is not too bad. But if old motors, I am sure it would have been a lot more fuel. Good to have a second backup tank in case one has fuel delivery issue either with bad fuel or lines, but likely same fuel will be in both tanks.
leafybug, that is really expensive. I hope when I pull mine, they are not that bad. Anyone else can help maybe where they got their tanks and cost for comparison? I thought these tanks would only run about $500....?
leafybug, that is really expensive. I hope when I pull mine, they are not that bad. Anyone else can help maybe where they got their tanks and cost for comparison? I thought these tanks would only run about $500....?
If you don't put the aux tank back in you're going to have to fab some support for the main tank so it doesn't move around. The main tank sounds shot so definitely replace it (coal tar epoxy before installing). You can put the old aux tank back in, don't use it and replace it at a later date. It's only going to buy you 18" of space and a lot of fab work to make it usable. It is frowned upon but the tanks may be able to be repaired, $10 a gallon is the usual rate for gas tanks.
If you can fill all the fish boxes and livewell on a Sailfish, you're taking back a huge catch.
If you can fill all the fish boxes and livewell on a Sailfish, you're taking back a huge catch.