There has been some discussion on fuel line replacement after so many years in use (age of yacht) with breakdown of the interior of the fuel line. My 2006 208 has now had 17 fun filled years on the planet so....I cut a section at the end of the line where it arrives and leaves the primary filter, no sign of deterioration compared to a piece of new fuel line. Still very pliable (bendable). The only issue was I needed to replace the primer bulb as it was very stiff, partially due having never having to prime the F200. TThought would be appreciated.
Replacing fuel lines
- Thread starter trapper
- Start date
The fact that the line is still flexible is good. If you don't smell gas in the tank coffin or bilge and there are no visible leaks, the lines are probably OK and not a critical item (now).
I would pay extra attention to the line from the filter, and eventually primer bulb. Since much of that run is exposed in the motor well on the 208, it gets a lot of UV rays. The same goes for the line from the primer to the under the cowling filter. I find that the exposed lines and fittings age quicker.
The primer bulbs don't last as long as the lines usually do. I don't think that using them or not using them makes a lot of difference on getting stiff. I have found that the OEM bulbs are generally better made than other replacements. The Yamaha primer bulbs are expensive compared to alternatives but i learned that primers are not a good part to substitute non OEM parts.
I am sure you know that the hose size for the run from the tank all the way to the primer bulb is 3/8 in and the remaining run from the primer into the engine is 5/8 inch.
What may not be obvious is the actual routing of the fuel hose from the tank to the water separator. On my 208, I had to remove the lid over the water tank to get to the hose which was clamped to the stringer on the side of the water tank. In addition, the hose was caulked in the area where it went through the gas tank aft bulkhead,
If I remember correctly and that is getting harder each day, The total length of 3/8 inch hose needed to go from the tank to the primer was longer than I had estimated to to its routing.
I would pay extra attention to the line from the filter, and eventually primer bulb. Since much of that run is exposed in the motor well on the 208, it gets a lot of UV rays. The same goes for the line from the primer to the under the cowling filter. I find that the exposed lines and fittings age quicker.
The primer bulbs don't last as long as the lines usually do. I don't think that using them or not using them makes a lot of difference on getting stiff. I have found that the OEM bulbs are generally better made than other replacements. The Yamaha primer bulbs are expensive compared to alternatives but i learned that primers are not a good part to substitute non OEM parts.
I am sure you know that the hose size for the run from the tank all the way to the primer bulb is 3/8 in and the remaining run from the primer into the engine is 5/8 inch.
What may not be obvious is the actual routing of the fuel hose from the tank to the water separator. On my 208, I had to remove the lid over the water tank to get to the hose which was clamped to the stringer on the side of the water tank. In addition, the hose was caulked in the area where it went through the gas tank aft bulkhead,
If I remember correctly and that is getting harder each day, The total length of 3/8 inch hose needed to go from the tank to the primer was longer than I had estimated to to its routing.
Check your fill and vent hoses carefully. I just had to replace on my 2008 Gulfstream. The section just under the fill cap was the worst and just crumbled while the section under the inspection hatch where it goes into the tank was just fine. Was getting fuel smell upon filling but just then was my clue to start looking.
Thanks, Will check the fill and vent hose. Seasick, the line from the primer bulb runs from under the starboard lidded hatch into the splash well and from there to the F 200. I have all this rigging enclosed with rigging hose. Very little exposure anywhere on the run to UV. The rest of the fuel lines are all under cover. I have my primary fuel filter in the lidded and hinged fresh water hatch, so all under cover there. As always appreciate your input.
"I had to remove the lid over the water tank to get to the hose which was clamped to the stringer on the side of the water tank. In addition, the hose was caulked in the area where it went through the gas tank aft bulkhead," I'm doing the same thing right now...Just wondering how you got that lid off? Looks like use a multi-tool to get the
sealant out and it should come out fine. Is that the way you did it???
Thanks
I just cut the sealant with a utility knife until I could get under the caulk with a small screw driver. I also uses a metal scraper to pry ehr sealant away from its edges. It takes a bit of effort to get started but it wen quickly after the first sections were taken out.
I may have already mentioned this but in case I didn't; There maybe plastic shims of different thicknesses under the bottom edges of the lid. They were where the screws were screwed in. Since thay are different thicknesses, keep them in order as to where they were when reinstalling the lid. They are there to make lid top even with the deck.
I also just notices that I said the fuel lines into the motor were 5/8 inch. Yikes, they are 5/16 inch
I may have already mentioned this but in case I didn't; There maybe plastic shims of different thicknesses under the bottom edges of the lid. They were where the screws were screwed in. Since thay are different thicknesses, keep them in order as to where they were when reinstalling the lid. They are there to make lid top even with the deck.
I also just notices that I said the fuel lines into the motor were 5/8 inch. Yikes, they are 5/16 inch
Hookup1
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I would be planning to deal with the fuel tanks and do all the hoses/lines at that time. Did my 1997 Islander last Summer. No leaks but it was about time.
Thanks! Will start today. I'll be replacing all the fuel hoses, hopefully it will go smoothly.I just cut the sealant with a utility knife until I could get under the caulk with a small screw driver. I also uses a metal scraper to pry ehr sealant away from its edges. It takes a bit of effort to get started but it wen quickly after the first sections were taken out.
I may have already mentioned this but in case I didn't; There maybe plastic shims of different thicknesses under the bottom edges of the lid. They were where the screws were screwed in. Since thay are different thicknesses, keep them in order as to where they were when reinstalling the lid. They are there to make lid top even with the deck.
I also just notices that I said the fuel lines into the motor were 5/8 inch. Yikes, they are 5/16 inch
Hi
Wondering how you replaced those lines. Easy to access under inspection hatch but on my 208 there doesn't seem to be a way to access the fill cap
side with enough clearance to remove the hoses. Maybe the fill cap housing comes out along with the hoses???
Seasick----did what you said and was able to get the hatch above the water tank off... Now replacing the hoses. probably replace the fresh water sprayer hose as well.
Hookup1
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Mine are 3/8 inch between tank and motor. West Marine is $10/foot, wow! Got to bite the bullet here, no amazon special for these hoses!!I just cut the sealant with a utility knife until I could get under the caulk with a small screw driver. I also uses a metal scraper to pry ehr sealant away from its edges. It takes a bit of effort to get started but it wen quickly after the first sections were taken out.
I may have already mentioned this but in case I didn't; There maybe plastic shims of different thicknesses under the bottom edges of the lid. They were where the screws were screwed in. Since thay are different thicknesses, keep them in order as to where they were when reinstalling the lid. They are there to make lid top even with the deck.
I also just notices that I said the fuel lines into the motor were 5/8 inch. Yikes, they are 5/16 inch
I found it less expensive to buy a 25 foot box of hose. In addition, you may need more length than you initially estimate. The run from the tank to the separator and to the primer is not a straight run.
If the primer is old, you should replace that also. buy a genuine Yamaha bulb. Many of the less expensive ones are poorly made.
Finally, make sure the line from the primer to the motor is truly 3/8 inch. The difference between 5/16 and 3/8 is small but can become an issues with routing the line under the cowling. One way to tell for sure what you need is to remove the primer bulb abd see if both barbed ends are the same diameter or different.
bought 3/8 inch line since thats what came out of the boat. Only problem is getting the line on the output fuel tank nipple. It's too tight. Any suggestions??
Seasick, did you have the same problem???
thanks ahead of time for the help
I decided to replace the tank pickup tube. That should eliminate the tight-fitting line. Hopefully it will go smoothly, but when does it ever go smoothly!
Seasick, did you have the same problem???
thanks ahead of time for the help
I decided to replace the tank pickup tube. That should eliminate the tight-fitting line. Hopefully it will go smoothly, but when does it ever go smoothly!
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You can use a heat gun CAREFULLY to soften the hose. You can also try some dish soap and water mixture on the barbed fitting. The soap won't hurt anything
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The fule lines are somewhat locked in place with heavy clear silicone caulk. It is not that difficult to dig it out. When you do you can replace it when you put tanks and hoses back in.
The hoses do not require a heat gun or dish detergent. Maybe a little light coating of a clear silicone lube.
The reason I don't like silicone or ther lubricants is that the stuff remains 'wet' forever and can make it easier for a hose to get loose or pulled off. The dish soap dries out
I also am not sure if the OP has an issue connecting a new hose or instead removing an old one. In the later case, often the best approach is to slice the old hose first.
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Are you sure you're not trying to get the 3/8" line fitted onto the tank VENT fitting? That would be 5/8". Otherwise, if you took 3/8" off the fuel pickup barb and are putting 3/8" back on, there should be no issues. As noted above, any type of lubricant is fine.
Make sure you didn't separate a fuel hose "liner" and that's being pushed inside the hose creating a "clog".