Replacing fuel tank on 1993 208 Adventurer

[DennisG01]

Looking nice!

Question... are those strips of rubber that you're laying down? Rubber causes corrosion, FYI.

Are those the original pieces of rubber - and were there just two of them like there are now in the picture? It seems like because of their shape and (low) quantity, that it could deform the tank bottom enough that parts of the tank will, in time, rest on the floor again.

 

[HookUp]

Looking nice!

Question... are those strips of rubber that you're laying down? Rubber causes corrosion, FYI.

Are those the original pieces of rubber - and were there just two of them like there are now in the picture? It seems like because of their shape and (low) quantity, that it could deform the tank bottom enough that parts of the tank will, in time, rest on the floor again.

Those are the original strip that were there, and yes there were just two of them just like you see them.
There are basically just like a smaller version of the rubrails seen on boats made specifically to keep the tank off the deck. The old tank showed absolutely no sign of corrosion or deformation where it made contact with the rubber, and from what I've read this isnt the kind of "rubber" that will cause the corrision that you envision.
On the other hand the wood wedges that secured the tank originally did have a rubber similar to a bicycle tire tube on the edge where it made contact with the tank, but those area's are near the top of the tank where hopefully water would never reach that level in the bilge

 

[leeccoll]

Really nice work

 

[DennisG01]

Ah, so more of a "vinyl", than rubber? Makes sense - thanks for the clarification. That's interesting it didn't cause any deformation. I just would of that it would. I guess, then, there's no real reason to change the setup, but if it was me... I would probably try and do it better, still. No reason you can't improve it, right? Fiberglass or PVC flat stock (say 1/4" x 2") is relatively easy to get. You could 5200 2 or 4 pieces along the length of the tank, before dropping it in (fair the edges). In my opinion that would be a nice improvement.

Looking at the picture, it appears there are "some" areas where corrosion is starting. But given the age of the tank, you certainly can't argue. Was the boat (for most of it's life) kept on a trailer? That may explain why it has fared better than others.

I agree with your thought on the wood - not a good idea, but probably dried out quick enough that it didn't cause problems.

 

[HookUp]

Ah, so more of a "vinyl", than rubber? Makes sense - thanks for the clarification. That's interesting it didn't cause any deformation. I just would of that it would. I guess, then, there's no real reason to change the setup, but if it was me... I would probably try and do it better, still. No reason you can't improve it, right? Fiberglass or PVC flat stock (say 1/4" x 2") is relatively easy to get. You could 5200 2 or 4 pieces along the length of the tank, before dropping it in (fair the edges). In my opinion that would be a nice improvement.

Looking at the picture, it appears there are "some" areas where corrosion is starting. But given the age of the tank, you certainly can't argue. Was the boat (for most of it's life) kept on a trailer? That may explain why it has fared better than others.

I agree with your thought on the wood - not a good idea, but probably dried out quick enough that it didn't cause problems.

Yes, she is a trailer queen.

 

[seasick]

I understand. The problem I ran into with another product was that the adhesive sort of stuck but when I drove in the screws, it pushed away fro the rim it was glued to. I know that was due to the material I used and that is why I ask how the Azek holds up.

Nice job !

 

[HookUp]

I understand. The problem I ran into with another product was that the adhesive sort of stuck but when I drove in the screws, it pushed away fro the rim it was glued to. I know that was due to the material I used and that is why I ask how the Azek holds up.

Nice job !

Did you pre-drill an undersized hole first for the screw?
I have run into the situation you describe assembling other stuff so I know what you mean.
I'll give it a "pull test" when I get home to see what kind of adhesion I got. Hopefully I didnt over do it with the 4200

 

[DennisG01]

Pre-drilling should definitely help to avoid any "push away". Or, a few flush-head through bolts per side should work well, too. Meaning, put the flush-head bolts BETWEEN the existing holes.

Oh, one more thing... don't go too crazy with this part of the job. The hatch doesn't need to be screwed down like there's no tomorrow. You could dribble a little epoxy into each hole to close it up slightly. That would allow each screw to fit a bit tighter. Can't hurt to add the reinforcement - but keep it quick and simple - there's plenty of other things on a boat to do!

 

[HookUp]

Pre-drilling should definitely help to avoid any "push away". Or, a few flush-head through bolts per side should work well, too. Meaning, put the flush-head bolts BETWEEN the existing holes.

Oh, one more thing... don't go too crazy with this part of the job. The hatch doesn't need to be screwed down like there's no tomorrow. You could dribble a little epoxy into each hole to close it up slightly. That would allow each screw to fit a bit tighter. Can't hurt to add the reinforcement - but keep it quick and simple - there's plenty of other things on a boat to do!

This I'll keep in mind.
As a former auto mechanic sometimes I have to stop myself from tightening thing too much

 

[Ky Grady]

Here's the end profile of what the tank is sitting on.

 

[DennisG01]

This I'll keep in mind.
As a former auto mechanic sometimes I have to stop myself from tightening thing too much

I know what you mean. Don't get me wrong, you want it secure, for sure. But I think with how much flex a boat endures, making that hatch super secure with just a bunch of small screws to hold it will likely cause them to loosen up in short time - possibly even elongate the holes some. Heck, I would wager that just using a quality caulk would be enough to keep it in place. At least for a season till you remove it again. Maybe I'm exaggerating some with that - but you get the point.

 

[HookUp]

yep -thats the stuff Ky.

 

[HookUp]

well the good news is I got home and "tried" to pull the Azek pieces off. I could rock the boat on the trailer by pulling on them, so I dont think they are coming off too easy

 

[DennisG01]

I will admit, seeing that profile, I am surprised (and admitedly wrong) it didn't cause any deformation to the tank. I guess the tank is beefier than I give it credit for.

 

[DennisG01]

well the good news is I got home and "tried" to pull the Azek pieces off. I could rock the boat on the trailer by pulling on them, so I dont think they are coming off too easy

Did you do anything to Azek? Like sand it with a course grit sandpaper?

 

[HookUp]

To be quite honest, I didn't sand it, I had some laying around in the shop. I ripped it, shaped it and glued it.
And used a good bead of 4200 I might add

BTW Dennis, the tank is a bit beefier than I also thought it was gonna be.

This was a good project for me and the boat too. The boat has given me nothing but joy for the past 25 + years. The only time she has ever been down is when I re-powered. I'm also glad I have kept her on a trailer. The only regret I have is when I painted the bottom for the one year it was docked at a friends house.
She deserves all the love and care I can afford it

 

[HookUp]

Did you do anything to Azek? Like sand it with a course grit sandpaper?

Wanted to update this :

So the Azek that I first glued in I guess I wasnt liberal enough with the 4200- those pieces came off. The ones that I used a generous amount of 4200 are stuck very well.
Moral of the story - Use plenty of 4200 to glue up Azek. LOL

Tank is in and secured. I will try to post some pics up tonight. Just a few little thing to do before I seal up the floor access hatch, fill her with fuel and go for a sea trial.

 

[DennisG01]

Wanted to update this :

So the Azek that I first glued in I guess I wasnt liberal enough with the 4200- those pieces came off. The ones that I used a generous amount of 4200 are stuck very well.
Moral of the story - Use plenty of 4200 to glue up Azek. LOL

Tank is in and secured. I will try to post some pics up tonight. Just a few little thing to do before I seal up the floor access hatch, fill her with fuel and go for a sea trial.

Thanks, Hook. I'm actually thinking of using this for another project, but that is helpful to know. We pull our docks up (for the winter) onto long skids made of dimensional lumber. I'm thinking the composite stuff might make it easier to slide them back into the water, in the spring.

 

[HookUp]

Thanks, Hook. I'm actually thinking of using this for another project, but that is helpful to know. We pull our docks up (for the winter) onto long skids made of dimensional lumber. I'm thinking the composite stuff might make it easier to slide them back into the water, in the spring.

Are you thinking of securing some azek to the dimensional lumber to use as a skid?
If thats the case I would probably use countersunk screws of some kind in addition to the 4200.

 

[DennisG01]

Are you thinking of securing some azek to the dimensional lumber to use as a skid?
f thats the case I would probably use countersunk screws of some kind in addition to the 4200.

Yes, exactly - a slipperier skid. Yeah, I figured I might add a few screws - or possibly a few through-bolts (to avoid screw pops over time) - but it sounds promising that the 4200 (I'd probably use 5200, though) sticks well enough to the composite stuff so I don't have to run a whole bunch of screws in.