Replacing pump out valve

[grady33]

Have a ‘06 330 and need to replace the 1” bronze ball valve on my waste holding tank pump out. Grady recommends replacing it with what is there already (pic #1). However, I’m considering replacing it with Groco IBVF/C83600 bronze (leaded red brass/85-5-5-5) flanged adaptor w/backing block between the valve flange and the hull. The valve is located in the forward bilge and protected from anything coming in contact with it so

I’m wondering if this is overkill? Also, the Groco valve on there now says 600 WOG but the valve I purchased says 400 WOG. Not sure the difference? I will also be doing this on a lift and only have 8 hours from being out of water.

 

[glacierbaze]

First off, why are you replacing what is there? If it is because it has turned green, green is a good thing.
I was thinking that my seafarer had a seacock, but it is in fact, just a an unsupported ball valve, like yours.

 

[wspitler]

My question as well? Is it bent? Is it leaking? Is it frozen? If it is just the handle or it’s stiff, put a new handle on it take the hose off lubricate the ball valve put it back together. My 2007 330 had the same valve and was stiff I removed the hose sprayed silicon into the ball valve and around the handle tightened up the handle nut and all is well from five years ago.

 

[grady33]

My question as well? Is it bent? Is it leaking? Is it frozen? If it is just the handle or it’s stiff, put a new handle on it take the hose off lubricate the ball valve put it back together. My 2007 330 had the same valve and was stiff I removed the hose sprayed silicon into the ball valve and around the handle tightened up the handle nut and all is well from five years ago.

I broke the actual bolt and what it attaches to so can’t open. Need to replace ball valve. May just replace that valve but not sure what’s gonna happen when I try and unscrew it. Wish it was as easy as replacing the handle.

 

[grady33]

First off, why are you replacing what is there? If it is because it has turned green, green is a good thing.
I was thinking that my seafarer had a seacock, but it is in fact, just a an unsupported ball valve, like yours.
View attachment 30268

No handle and part bolt attaches to are sheared off. May just replace with what I have for now.

 

[wspitler]

I broke the actual bolt and what it attaches to so can’t open. Need to replace ball valve. May just replace that valve but not sure what’s gonna happen when I try and unscrew it. Wish it was as easy as replacing the handle.

If you place a big crescent wrench on the through hull bolt the valve should unscrew pretty easily. Easy for me to say!

 

[seasick]

You have to remove the valve to replace it. It may unscrew easily or it may not. If the thru hull fitting turns at all when removing the valve, that will have to be rebedded or better yet replaced. If you go that route, you will be able to inspect and reseal the inner edge of the hull cutout.
You may be able to prevent the thru hull from turning by using a pipe wrench on the threads but that may damage the threads making the removal of the nut more difficult if needed.
If all else goes south, you will have to cut the thru hull and possible cut the nut.

The larger fitting with the flange may be overkill and depending on how flat the hull is around the hole, it may be tricky to get the flange to sit flat. In addition, it will need additional holes drilled through the hull. Assuming your hull is not cored ( it shouldn't be) the bolt holes should be ok just sealed.
A 400 spec valve will be fine since the application is low pressure.

 

[glacierbaze]

You also need to be aware of possible differences in the threads, especially if you mix brands. You are definitely going to have straight threads on the through hull, but I would expect to find straight threads on the bottom of a sea cock, or a through hull flange, such as pictured in your third photo, and tapered NPT threads on the top nipple. So a ball valve designed to screw directly to a through hull is not the same ball valve that would screw to the tapered threads on a flange or a seacock. But, it is not unusual to find this mismatch, even straight from a manufacturer. Straight threads only go into a tapered fitting a short distance before it feels tight, but it is a very shallow and weak connection. When you remove your ball valve, it would be very interesting to know how deeply it was threaded onto the through hull.
Starting with the through hull, make sure each connection has matching threads.