replacing the transom door board??

[nick1048]

I'm not sure what it is called exactly, but it's the board that goes across the transom that has the (on my boat) 3 doors...battery door on left, oil tank door on right, and middle door for access to the bilge area, etc. A while ago, probably about a year ago, somebody posted pics of a project they had done using Starboard, I think, to replace that whole section. I couldn't find the old topic and was wondering if anybody has done this or had any tips, opinions, etc. Mine is old marine wood that a previous owner used and it is looking a little crummy and needs to be replaced. Thanks for any input.

 

[BobP]

Nick, looks like your question fell off the radar screen ! I'll take it.

You can call it the transom service area panel or bulkhead, we all know what it is.

It was originally a micarta material 1/2 inch thick covered with off white formica on both sides, some had woodgrain formica. Newer ones were white with black plexiglass doors 1/2 in thick.

You can use starboard if you prefer. You can use a good plywood and seal it in resin and formica cover it. The existing one comes out, you first take off the trim pieces and you will see how it goes from there. Just take it to a builder or woodworker and replicate the dimensions, or you can do the same.

The micarta I have is perfect and no rot, but the off white formica is beat up a bit.

 

[nick1048]

BobP,
Thanks for the response. That makes a little more sense...the formica. I'm not in any rush, probably won't do it until this winter, but that's some good info to have. Thanks again, I assumed it was going to be an unanswered post.

 

[gw204]

I think I would make a mold and glass the new panel with a composite or wood core. Molding the panel will allow you to incorporate the hatch stops so you don't have to screw in the afterthought trim pieces.

 

[BobP]

Whoa Brian !

He can also acquire polyester glass in a sheet, of different sizes, 1/8 in thick will do it fine, it's called GP03 and meant for electrical insulation but it's all the same for us, and cut out an opening in it smaller than existing in bulkhead to form the backing / gasket surface and screw in panel from the back. One panel per door, very few screws are needed.

The way Grady did it with those plastic strips - forget it.

GP03 jig saw it, circular saw, drill it, its fiberglass and rigid.

I used it myself.

Since not much choice in color and from the back side and only seen when opening door, color didn't matter to me. ie - couldn't find white.

If I had to make a new bulkhead, would redesign perhaps - make it fixed in a portion of the mid span for about 6 inch in two points off either side of the mid section but rigid heavy, and make left and right sides flap up totally or hinged out totally and off.

No little doors especially the side two.

I consider the bulkhead holding up the mid section of cap (with fishboxes and water weight with it) span from sagging, so I tend to want to go with a marine or similar high count plywood, I luv the off white formica as it last forever to me, and would resin seal the wood heavy in back (no formica back there) and bond the formica with the same thickened resin. Probably nix the plexiglass doors to left and right side, need someting for middle, swing up is ok but lower to start.

You got me started but no more !

Can't get done what I already have on plate.

 

[cgmiller]

My buddy with a 1989 230 replaced his transom door/wave gate with a single piece of starboard and used U channel to hold the hold the board in place. I am considering seperating the 2 sections of mine and just using the bottom half....it is a pain in the arse..