Replacing thru-hulls with stainless steel - costs?

[Num1nole]

I have a 1991, fairly new to me, 232. I’ve had a recurring issue with water accumulating in the forward section of the boat. First noticed it when I left it wet docked at a friends dock. Next morning had water covering about an inch above the access hatch. At the time the bilge pump only worked if the battery switch was on. Later when the boat was on the trailer and it rained, again water in the front. The last several months I have my boat at a marina on a bunk where it again collected water up front. Relocated the bunk to a fairly steep incline and no more rain water up front. Two questions: 1) does anyone know how the rain water is getting into the bow? 2) just to be sure the thru-hull plastic fittings (there are 8) are not leaking I’m going to replace them all with stainless steel and having the bottom repainted. Cost of fittings is $230 and $650 labor. Painting the hull is another $1200. Are these cost reasonable or should I shop around. Thanks for your time!!

 

[seasick]

If the through hull fittings are below the water line, do not use stainless. Use bronze, chromed bronze or Marlon a good plastic option.Often rain water enters the forward bilge through the anchor locker lid or perhaps thewindlass opening. In some cases rain water at the helm may be draining into the mid bilge.

Regarding your bilge pump that only works when the battery switch is on; Does it run when the float switch 'floats' or only when you use the dash switch. The later manual operation is wired through the battery switch whereas the automatic function should be powered directly off of a battery with an in-line fuse. The direct fused connecte d may be wired at the switch but at the batter connection side (not switched) of the switch

 

[Hookup1]

I did my above the waterline thru hulls this past Summer. GemLux stainless. Nice pieces competitive with other stuff out there but better quality.

Water most likely coming in thru anchor locker/windlass. Possible you have a rub rail leak but you should see evidence of it inside. Best answer is to rack the bow higher and let it drain out the back.

As Seasick said - make sure the bilge pump runs via float with battery switches off. Still best to pitch it to drain. Surveyor once told me "Most boats sink on the trailer now days.".

 

[Fishtales]

X2 on the SS over bronze. A must below the waterline. Could use SS above buy why bother.
Wet anchor rode or water getting in the opening, leaking mounts where the hard top supports mount, leaky windows, leaks in the water system, under the rub rail have all been called out in the past. Goint to have to spend some time with colored water and patience.

 

[Fishtales]

When you do this, be ready for some hose replacements as well....

 

[Rlloyd]

Those sound like very good prices to me. I just had my 232 bottom painted, and that was $2k. The thru-hulls (and hoses) are a PIA to change, particularly the ones midship from the live well and cooler (port) and fishbox (starboard). For 8 thru hulls $600 in labor is well worth it. Make sure to replace the hoses, not just the thru-hulls.

 

[seasick]

X2 on the SS over bronze. A must below the waterline. Could use SS above buy why bother.
Wet anchor rode or water getting in the opening, leaking mounts where the hard top supports mount, leaky windows, leaks in the water system, under the rub rail have all been called out in the past. Goint to have to spend some time with colored water and patience.

The proper fittings are CHROME over bronze. I dont think there is such a thing as stainless plated bronze.

 

[SkunkBoat]

All of the bilge spaces are connected. the water can be coming from anywhere on the boat and running forward.

If you trailer the boat and don't use antifouling paint, then stainless is OK below water line. If you are painting the bottom, use bronze or marelon there, paint right over it.

Bronze turns green.
Chrome over bronze eventually gets green pits.
Stainless can weep a rust line.
Marelon isn't shiny and pretty.

 

[Num1nole]

Thanks everyone for the sage advice! Challenged my marine repair guy on the SS below water line and he said you were all right. I decided to go with the Forespar Marelon thru hulls and ordered them myself through Go2Marine. Saved about $60. Regarding the water up front in the bow, my suspicions were that it could be entering through the anchor hatch, but when I looked at that seemed like the rain water should have routed around the rode hole via a channel made for that purpose. Anyway, I’m planning on making a cover to snap over the hatch with hopes that can stop the water. Thanks again everyone for you input!

 

[Hookup1]

I know it's a little late but Marlon thru hulls below the waterline are not the best choice. I would go with bronze. Above the waterline the Marlon is ok but stainless is a better choice.

Marlon thru hulls will pop the mushroom if hit against a dock or something inside the boat. I broke a forward bilge Marlon thru hull off. Was taking some water in thru the hole in rough seas. Bilge pump tried to pump water out but couldn't. No idea what was happening until I got back to the dock. To get to the thru hull you had to pull the refrigerator and climb in the hole under the sink.

I also snapped one off inside my aft storage compartment/bucket.

 

[ROBERTH]

Agree with Hookup1, always go with metal over any type of plastic. Many boats have sunk due to plastics failures. Marelon is tough, but not best choice. When I purchased my Grady used, 2 though hulls, original from factory that were plastic were cracked. One above line was also cracked and leaking, so replaced all with SS as I trailer my boat.

 

[SkunkBoat]

I had 3 out of 4 chrome over bronze 1-1/2" scuppers cracked inside the rim. Old is old.
They don't make Marleon "scuppers" though. Only mushroom thruhulls and flush deck drains. I replaced scuppers with SS because Chrome over Bronze scuppers are crazy expensive.

Grady didn't use Marelon they used nylon. Don't confuse them.
Marelon is ABYC approved for below waterline.
https://www.forespar.com/what-is-marelon.shtml

Bump the endless discussion..
https://www.greatgrady.com/threads/stainless-vs-bronze-vs-marelon-ss-screws.34538/

 

[Hookup1]

My experience was with GW original thru hulls which were nylon. My below the waterline thru hulls are metal assume bronze but not sure.

What Marelon Is

Marelon® is a proprietary formulation of polymar composite compounds using composite reinforced polymer and additives to produce a superior marine-grade product. For use above and below the waterline. Precision molded plumbing systems. Complete freedom from corrosion. U.L. and A.B.Y.C. approved...

www.forespar.com