Repower Options: Seafarer 228G

[brightnight]

Great question. I bought the boat for $17k and have added $7k in upgrades all of which I installed including a radar arch, satellite GPS, Furuno 12kW open array radar, Garmin plotter and sonar, and radio. When I started seeing new motor costs and installment of $30K+ I started getting a bit shy. If I could find a good used motor I would love that but worry that I might be getting someone elses problem. I haven't seen a ton of low hour motors, maybe I don't know the best places to look for them and certainly open to suggestions.

Another thing I struggle with is how long I can reasonable expect a motor to last. If the web is to be believed, even the same model motors can have vastly different life spans. When I bought my 2006 Mercuary 200xl in 2017 it had ~300 hours on it which isn't a ton for 12 years. The motor died this year at 620 hours (powerhead blew) and replaced the compressor last year and I did motor maintance ahead of schedule. On the other hand I see someone people selling outoards with 3000 hours and someone selling and inboard gas merc engine with 3800 hours.

 

[Mustang65fbk]

In my opinion, and of course this is just my opinion… if you’ve already got $24k into your boat and are going to potentially be adding another $25k+ for a repower… I think you’d be pretty upside down on it and struggle to break even. As mentioned before, I’d try to fix what you’ve got if possible, get a replacement powerhead, used motor, etc… as opposed to buying something brand new. I’d do that, sell your current setup, get out from underneath it and move on. Again, just my opinion of course.

 

[brightnight]

Don't feel like you're stepping over the line with suggestions I apprecaite your thoughts. I still haven't made a choice on new/used motor vs new boat but learning towards new/used engine route. Have put hundreds of hours of work into it to get it just he way I want and pretty happy with how she rides, getting 2.7mpg, and hull is sound.

If I went with Suzuki...How hard would it be to move the scuppers and livewell drain up a couple inches? Seems like it would be easy but have others done this? How thick is the hull (how deep of a hole do I have to drill) and would I be effecting the integrity of my stern? I assume I could offset the new holes a litltle and fill in the old scupper holes with fiberglass resin or something but might not be as strong as before.

As suggested I added weight to my engine to similar a suzuki (100lbs extra) and a yamaha (50lbs extra) to see how the boat sat. Since my boat wasn't loaded down with gear, I wasn't in it for these photos, it was calm, and also only had a half a tank of gas it's not a true test but is the best I could do. Boat was sitting uneven so photos represent the worse-case side. I did install a tower and 4' open array located on the CG so that might help a little too but with big waves the extra weight doesn't make feel feel great.

Normal Merc 200xl Merc engine (517lbs), engine in up position:


50lbs added (total engine weight at 567lbs):



100lbs added (total engine weight at 617lbs). In small waves with me in the back water was still and inch below the top of the deck in the scupper:

 

[Mustang65fbk]

Another thing to consider would be the possibility of moving your batteries either into the cabin or further forward. I don't know what your particular setup is, but I’ve got two Interstate 24M-XHD batteries in the stern of my boat, each one weighing in at 45 lbs a piece. Which two of them would be almost 100 lbs of extra weight that you could eliminate if you wanted to lose a few pounds. I imagine that moving your batteries into the cabin or further forward would also be considerably easier, cheaper and less time consuming as opposed to raising the level of the scuppers up on your boat. Just some more food for thought.

 

[Fixit]

Ive often thought about removing scuppers and plumbing deck drains into a shower sump box with a macerator pump. ive seen more then a few sunken boats where the low in the water scuppers caused it to back flow and sink.

 

[Johnny Dollar]

I have a 91 228 with a 2004 Yamaha 250 i love this motor great cruiser and gets right up on plane and only burns 10 -15 gallons per hour at 3700 rpms doing 26-29 mph go with a 250 you won't regret it.

 

[Ky Grady]

Biggest question I would have is, do you plan to keep your boat at least 3-5 more years or do you have the itch to go newer? If you're going to keep it, then consider new motor in the 250 range. Grady's are fairly heavy for their size and more HP is always a good thing. Don't have to use it all, but nice to have it if you need it. I went from a F225 to a F250 last year and the change in performance is fantastic. The 250 handles the boat effortlessly, where the 225 had to work harder to handle it. If you go new, consider fly by wire. No effort what so ever in controlling the motor,, much smoother than cables by a long shot. Yes, it's more expensive, but it was worth it to me. Buy once, cry once. Like having a brand new boat with the motor upgrade.

 

[Thor's Outlaw]

Biggest question I would have is, do you plan to keep your boat at least 3-5 more years or do you have the itch to go newer? If you're going to keep it, then consider new motor in the 250 range. Grady's are fairly heavy for their size and more HP is always a good thing. Don't have to use it all, but nice to have it if you need it. I went from a F225 to a F250 last year and the change in performance is fantastic. The 250 handles the boat effortlessly, where the 225 had to work harder to handle it. If you go new, consider fly by wire. No effort what so ever in controlling the motor,, much smoother than cables by a long shot. Yes, it's more expensive, but it was worth it to me. Buy once, cry once. Like having a brand new boat with the motor upgrade.

This is exactly what I'm doing at the end of this season. I'm replacing my 2002 F225 (1250 hrs) and going for a new F250 however, my local dealer is making a notable effort to talk me out of the the fly by wire and electronic shift for some reason. Telling me to keep it all mechanical. The difference in performance has got to be monumental. Also, Id like to know how you have those outrigger bases mounted. Are those welded in supports or are they the bolt on ones that I've seen in passing but cant seem to locate now?

 

[Ky Grady]

This is exactly what I'm doing at the end of this season. I'm replacing my 2002 F225 (1250 hrs) and going for a new F250 however, my local dealer is making a notable effort to talk me out of the the fly by wire and electronic shift for some reason. Telling me to keep it all mechanical. The difference in performance has got to be monumental. Also, Id like to know how you have those outrigger bases mounted. Are those welded in supports or are they the bolt on ones that I've seen in passing but cant seem to locate now?

Don't let them talk you out of the FBW. It's fantastic. I didn't go electronic steering, kept it SeaStar hydraulic. Maybe he's sitting on a mechanical F250 and wants to off load it onto you. I questioned the FBW throttle/shift longevity with my dealer in Charleston before I ordered mine and they've seen no ill effects by going FBW on any of their boats. I have a longstanding, fantastic/years, relationship with them, and have no reason to doubt them.

The outriggers have backing plates under them wedged between the hardtop and tubes. So far, I've see no issues with this setup. I don't run with my outriggers extended, so I'm not flexing the mounting point.

 

[brightnight]

Another thing to consider would be the possibility of moving your batteries either into the cabin or further forward. I don't know what your particular setup is, but I’ve got two Interstate 24M-XHD batteries in the stern of my boat, each one weighing in at 45 lbs a piece. Which two of them would be almost 100 lbs of extra weight that you could eliminate if you wanted to lose a few pounds. I imagine that moving your batteries into the cabin or further forward would also be considerably easier, cheaper and less time consuming as opposed to raising the level of the scuppers up on your boat. Just some more food for thought.

That's a brilliant idea, thanks for the suggestion! Really didn't want to move the scupper and livewell drain because I'd probably have to remove the livewell to get back there. As long as I choose the right gauge of wire and secure the batteries I think moving them forward should be fine. I'll have to do some research to see where others have put them when moving them forwardand will have to make sure I don't put them anywhere near where there are potential gas fumes. First thought is one in each of the "deck boxes", second is in the bow just under the first deck hatch. I don't have a reserve tank so there's space there but no way to get batteries in and out without cutting up the deck plate and siliconing it back down which I want to avoid.





How long do I expect to own the boat? Great question. I would say probably 3-5 more years. When tuna fishing we run 50 miles offshore and fish for 12 hours and then run back so getting good MPG is important, as is being stabile in swells but there are probably many boats that meet or surpase this, but I am partial to this boat. The boat is in good shape, setup for it, and new/used boats are pretty pricey. I guess I haven't been looking but would need to do some heard searching and find a great deal to switch boats.

 

[Mustang65fbk]

That's a brilliant idea, thanks for the suggestion! Really didn't want to move the scupper and livewell drain because I'd probably have to remove the livewell to get back there. As long as I choose the right gauge of wire and secure the batteries I think moving them forward should be fine. I'll have to do some research to see where others have put them when moving them forwardand will have to make sure I don't put them anywhere near where there are potential gas fumes. First thought is one in each of the "deck boxes", second is in the bow just under the first deck hatch. I don't have a reserve tank so there's space there but no way to get batteries in and out without cutting up the deck plate and siliconing it back down which I want to avoid.


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How long do I expect to own the boat? Great question. I would say probably 3-5 more years. When tuna fishing we run 50 miles offshore and fish for 12 hours and then run back so getting good MPG is important, as is being stabile in swells but there are probably many boats that meet or surpase this, but I am partial to this boat. The boat is in good shape, setup for it, and new/used boats are pretty pricey. I guess I haven't been looking but would need to do some heard searching and find a great deal to switch boats.

I’ve oftentimes wondered why boat manufacturers don’t put the batteries in a better location. My thought process on the matter is that where they are currently seems the most illogical spot in that it’s the furthest rearward and essentially the lowest part of the boat. So… God forbid that the boat sink, but if it were to do so, the batteries would likely be one of the first things to go. Unless they’re in waterproof battery boxes or something similar. I get that this is likely the best place for the batteries in that they won’t vibrate as much or bounce around. But my thought process would be to have a waterproof hatch underneath the captain’s or co-captain’s chairs and have them located in there. I think this would be a happy medium between the stern and the bow of the boat, where the bow is likely going to be the roughest ride for the batteries. In terms of ownership… even at 3-5 years you’re not going to make back that $25k-$30k+ you just spent on a repower. As well as you’re also going to be out of the warranty period depending on which manufacturer you go with and how many years you keep the boat. Which honestly is going to be likely a harder sell for a boat that’s been repowered. I’d spend as little money as possible, get it running again and sell it, or keep it for a couple years and upgrade to a newer boat. Just my opinions on the matter, once again. It’s your money and your boat, so do what’s best for you.

 

[brightnight]

That would be a good location but I will have to think about if I want my batteries in the same area as the gas tank with poential fumes and sparks. Thinking they are seperate for a reason and it's all one big empty space just forward of the 93g tank but you make good points and I appreciate the suggestions.

I’ve oftentimes wondered why boat manufacturers don’t put the batteries in a better location. My thought process on the matter is that where they are currently seems the most illogical spot in that it’s the furthest rearward and essentially the lowest part of the boat. So… God forbid that the boat sink, but if it were to do so, the batteries would likely be one of the first things to go.

Saw that happen a few years ago 10 miles off Chatham MA at the end of October in 55 degree water. Nice big boat and guy didn't realize he was taking on water. Water came in and killed his batteries which also killed his radio (he didn't have a backup). We were trying to figure out why he was waving at us on the deck thinking that he'd call on the radio if there was a problem and usually people have a fish on and are looking for more space during a run. Started making sense when hit lit flares. Boat next to use picked him, his wife, and two dogs up. In less than five minutes his boat sunk and flipped. Ended up being a problem with his livewell that cost him the boat and almost his life. The evening after that I put an order in for a liferaft. Must be some cheap water intrusion alarms out there you can glue at the base of the battery.