Relatively new boater/fisher here. I've been operating a small Bayliner (17' w/120 hp Force), and I've been looking at '96 Voyagers 248 w/single O/B. I'm no youngster & can't afford to make a mistake here. Safefty first. Internet searches on the viability of these boats ranges from good to bad, with some advising against the use of the boat offshore. I contacted GW customer service and they boast of the "foam floatation" and "self-bailing" features of their boats; yet, even on this site there is evidence of these boats taking on water and rollover. The guy that got me hooked on this idea is a surveyor with a '96 himself. Maybe I'm over-analyzing this, but is there anybody out there with advice for a weekender like me, who only gets to put-in about once a month (haven't installed a boat lift on my bulkhead, another problem to deal with), and has to watch his pennies. Lastly, I've recently discovered a '96 Islander 268 for not much more than the Voyager 248. The only real problem I see here (for me) is that I completely lack experience on these larger boats, and the Islander has twin O/Bs, which cost a bundle unless you hug the shoreline, drift and settle for fluke. Looking to defer to the wisdom of those who know what they're talking about. Thanks.
Request for advice - older used
- Thread starter Lmtd-Budget
- Start date
I own a 1996 Voyager and go what I call offshore 20 to 40 miles. That said, I don't go if weather is bad or looks to turn bad. I watch the weather reports and will add XM weather overlay before my next trip.
Maybe others on here will advise yourself and me if I should not be making these trips in a voyager.
Not trying to steal your thread but this is interesting.
Maybe others on here will advise yourself and me if I should not be making these trips in a voyager.
Not trying to steal your thread but this is interesting.
GW VOYAGER: Here are two responses I received directly from GW customer service, both of which argue that even their older boats were built with safety in mind.
" The Voyager model will be a fine offshore platform for you. Grady-Whites were born and bread for offshore use but with any vessel ultimately the skill of the captain will be the most critical issue.
All of our boat models are designed with safety in mind featuring foam floatation which will keep the boat afloat if swamped and a self-bailing system that utilizes gravity to evacuate any water that gathers in the cockpit. For a look at how we build our boats just go to our web-site www.gradywhite.com and take the plant tour. Once at our home page just select "Grady Built" then select "Factory Tour". In the tour you'll see the method we use to construct our boats along with the materials and the workmanship that's involved.
(follow-up email response)
Yes, all of our boats built since the early seventies offer these safety features.
Good luck with your boat search and let us know if we may be of further assistance "
The only thing I've found, which tends to argue in a different direction, are articles on models with the "open transom" that can allow wash-over from wakes or chop. I'm beginning to see a new light here. Now, my only problem is going to be the true operating condition of the O/Bs. I was lucky on the Bayliner's Force; that thing is 13 yrs old and runs like a top. Seems like most GW owners are upgrading to Yamaha, and that can be expensive. Thanks for your response. Your boat pic shows a really good-looking GW.
" The Voyager model will be a fine offshore platform for you. Grady-Whites were born and bread for offshore use but with any vessel ultimately the skill of the captain will be the most critical issue.
All of our boat models are designed with safety in mind featuring foam floatation which will keep the boat afloat if swamped and a self-bailing system that utilizes gravity to evacuate any water that gathers in the cockpit. For a look at how we build our boats just go to our web-site www.gradywhite.com and take the plant tour. Once at our home page just select "Grady Built" then select "Factory Tour". In the tour you'll see the method we use to construct our boats along with the materials and the workmanship that's involved.
(follow-up email response)
Yes, all of our boats built since the early seventies offer these safety features.
Good luck with your boat search and let us know if we may be of further assistance "
The only thing I've found, which tends to argue in a different direction, are articles on models with the "open transom" that can allow wash-over from wakes or chop. I'm beginning to see a new light here. Now, my only problem is going to be the true operating condition of the O/Bs. I was lucky on the Bayliner's Force; that thing is 13 yrs old and runs like a top. Seems like most GW owners are upgrading to Yamaha, and that can be expensive. Thanks for your response. Your boat pic shows a really good-looking GW.
I can't say for sure, but I would guess the majority of roll-over stories you have read 1st started with some type of fitting failure below the water-line.
I have a '99 248 with a single 225 yamaha. It would take a he!! of a wave to swamp this boat. Were I live, if the waves are big enough to take our boat down, no one is having fun anyway.
I too stayed away from the islander because the single 250 was too little enigne and I didn't want the maintenance of twins. That said our 248 would be a lot easier to manuver with twins, but it isn't enough of an issue for me to want to pay for the convenience. Also, if I could have found an islander that was repowered with a single 300, I would have gone that route without a doubt.
I'm sure this will cause controversy, but I would not consider Voyagers or Islanders older than '98 because they did not use the rot resistant stringers/transome. Even my dad's babied and trailered Overnighter had rotted stringers and transome. I don't want to ever go through that again if I can avoid it.
Good luck!
I have a '99 248 with a single 225 yamaha. It would take a he!! of a wave to swamp this boat. Were I live, if the waves are big enough to take our boat down, no one is having fun anyway.
I too stayed away from the islander because the single 250 was too little enigne and I didn't want the maintenance of twins. That said our 248 would be a lot easier to manuver with twins, but it isn't enough of an issue for me to want to pay for the convenience. Also, if I could have found an islander that was repowered with a single 300, I would have gone that route without a doubt.
I'm sure this will cause controversy, but I would not consider Voyagers or Islanders older than '98 because they did not use the rot resistant stringers/transome. Even my dad's babied and trailered Overnighter had rotted stringers and transome. I don't want to ever go through that again if I can avoid it.
Good luck!
Thank you Budget
I have added some safety gear so we feel more comfortable when out. I don't care what boat you are in extreme caution and a little common sense are a must .
1.PLB water proof floating
2.Hand held backup GPS
3.Hand held radio
4.Ditch bag
My motor is a 1996- 225HP Johnson and it sucks gas down but it runs great.
I have added some safety gear so we feel more comfortable when out. I don't care what boat you are in extreme caution and a little common sense are a must .
1.PLB water proof floating
2.Hand held backup GPS
3.Hand held radio
4.Ditch bag
My motor is a 1996- 225HP Johnson and it sucks gas down but it runs great.
Knowing what you're doing and the area is more important then the boat. I've seen 17' skiffs 25 miles out, it wasn't a flat day either but not that bad. If you're worried about safety, get the Islander (bigger boat, twins, hard top). The gas probably isn't that much more but the maitenance and insurance would be. In all fairness everybody picks their days, a bigger boat would winds up with more but not that many more.
For either boat to flip it would take some doing; stuffing the bow and pitching (or any other no-no), anchoring off the stern in nasy seas, hole below the wateline, having no business being out there in the first place...
either way get a survey
For either boat to flip it would take some doing; stuffing the bow and pitching (or any other no-no), anchoring off the stern in nasy seas, hole below the wateline, having no business being out there in the first place...
either way get a survey
You've raised a couple of points. First, any boat may capsize, which simply means it may roll over. The issue becomes whether or not a flooded or capsized boat may sink to the bottom. Grady's foam flotation, like other boats similarly constructed, prevents this, so the boat will float, though partially submerged, upside down or what have you. That's not a good situation, but it's better than the alternative. Second, there are any number of older Grady's which have already been repowered with new Yamaha 4 stroke outboards. I'd look for these. While you're at it, look for those boats whose fuel tanks have already been replaced. Third, I disagree with the dire warnings about the fold down ("notched") transom configurations of some Grady models. The attached pic describes what I'm talking about. This boat has been run offshore in everything from dead calm conditions (shown here 60 miles offshore ... and just the way I like it) to rather sporty following seas, all without incident or any problem. The only addition I found necessary was to add some foam weather stripping as gasket material where the folding transom door interfaces with the aptly named splashwell. Good luck in your search.
To all responders: This is awesome. I'm going to wait awhile longer for additional information (assuming, of course, that any arrive), becuase this is an education in itself. I'm trying to learn from the mistake I made by jumping feet-first into the Bayliner. Within a week of owning it I replaced the lower unit oil o-ring, starter, and water pump. Then the tires on the trailer went. Then the battery. So, in the first year, on a very inexpensive starter, I was out close to two grand. I'm sure you all have your own stories, the point is, if I make the first move the right move, I hope to limit my losses.
As for the wooden pre-98 stringers, I've been told that by GW. However, there are probably hundreds of perfectly good hulls out there, if I take my time. I was in the Chesapeake-Delaware canal a couple of times this past summer with an old salt who's owned and operated a 42' fishing boat (can't remember the manufacturer), that was custom built; looks like an old waterman's boat used for oystering. This boat is almost 35 yrs old; had the Cummins diesel rebuilt one-time. Again, the point here is that some fiberglass hulls, if cared for and not smashed around, can last an incredibly long time. But, I agree with the advice on securing the opinion of a surveyor, hopefully one that's got all the right experience and knowledge.
Again, many thanks for you input.
As for the wooden pre-98 stringers, I've been told that by GW. However, there are probably hundreds of perfectly good hulls out there, if I take my time. I was in the Chesapeake-Delaware canal a couple of times this past summer with an old salt who's owned and operated a 42' fishing boat (can't remember the manufacturer), that was custom built; looks like an old waterman's boat used for oystering. This boat is almost 35 yrs old; had the Cummins diesel rebuilt one-time. Again, the point here is that some fiberglass hulls, if cared for and not smashed around, can last an incredibly long time. But, I agree with the advice on securing the opinion of a surveyor, hopefully one that's got all the right experience and knowledge.
Again, many thanks for you input.
There is no question that grady white boats are designed for "offshore" use. In addition, boating experience and knowledge is a must. If thinking about purchasing an older grady white boat some things to think about. Gas tanks may only last 15-20 years on older boats, and often need to be replaced. Check hull for soft spots or water intrusion. Check thru hull fittings (older boats use plastic fittings). I would replace all plastic thru hull fittings with bronze or stainless steel fittings. Check the integrity of the transom. Always a good idea to have a surveyor check things out if your unsure on what your getting. Purchasing an older boat with a newer engine is a great cost effective way to go, even if hull work needs to be done. Good luck