Resealing of 33 Express Side Vent

[Bg56126]

Hi all - I’m planning my spring projects out on this snowy evening. I’ve got a 2006 33 Express and have read all the stories of the wet transoms and wet coring on the side. I’ve seen plenty of folks post about the transom repairs but have not seen anyone post on how to reseal the side vents which cause the water leaks. I’d like to tackle that project in the spring.

Is it as simple as pulling the vents off, sealing off the exposed fiberglass/balsa and then putting the vents back on with a new seal around those? What sealant have you used or would you recommend?

I’ll be sure to post pics and a report when I’m done so that others can do the same in the future.

 

[wspitler]

I removed both side vents on my 2007 330 and found there was no real need to seal. All was perfectly sealed. If not, it would be very easy to seal with 4200 or something that seals the edges but mine was completely fiberglass over.

 

[Bg56126]

I removed both side vents on my 2007 330 and found there was no real need to seal. All was perfectly sealed. If not, it would be very easy to seal with 4200 or something that seals the edges but mine was completely fiberglass over.

I hope I find the same. My plan was to use 4200 if I do need to add some sealant.

 

[drbatts]

I replaced and resealed the side vents of my 305. I used 3m 4000.

 

[seasick]

I wasn't aware that the wet coring issue with expresses was due to a vent. Which vent exactly are you referring to.
I thought the issue was due to something else like the deck to hull joint.

 

[Fishtales]

I've head that some folks had water getting into the balsa coring with water getting in under the vent. Prob a good idea to remove and reseal the balsa and glass area and then the backside of the vent.

 

[Hookup1]

Use 3M 4000 not 4200. Easier to take apart in the future and plenty of adhesive properties.

The older windows have black rubber inserts that leak - not usually the frame. You can use a black silicone in the frames and re-use the rubber.

 

[SkunkBoat]

Use 3M 4000 not 4200. Easier to take apart in the future and plenty of adhesive properties.

The older windows have black rubber inserts that leak - not usually the frame. You can use a black silicone in the frames and re-use the rubber.

I think he's talking about the vent for the generator space, not a window/vent. It is thru the balsa core of the hull, under the rub rail of the gunnel.

The bigger Gradys have balsa cored hull sides, sold glass bottoms.

 

[Hookup1]

I think he's talking about the vent for the generator space, not a window/vent. It is thru the balsa core of the hull, under the rub rail of the gunnel.

The bigger Gradys have balsa cored hull sides, sold glass bottoms.

I think he's talking about the vent for the generator space, not a window/vent. It is thru the balsa core of the hull, under the rub rail of the gunnel.

The bigger Gradys have balsa cored hull sides, sold glass bottoms.

I eliminated my front windows this year. Side windows are not balsa cored on my boat. Re-did them before.

 

[SkunkBoat]

I eliminated my front windows this year. Side windows are not balsa cored on my boat. Re-did them before.

heheh I meant the OP.

 

[Bg56126]

heheh I meant the OP.

You’re right. I was referring to the vents circled in the picture attached. Side note: my old boat (272 GW Sailfish) had the front and side windows which all leaked. I was able to fix them by resealing the outside edges with some marine grade silicone. You couldn’t tell it was done and they never leaked again for as long as I owned the boat.

 

[5-Salt]

Prefer GE Advanced Silicone 2 Window and Door Sealant - Almond Color for all sealing above waterline.

Matches Grady Color, 10year no mold performance, and remains pliable much longer (no seal cracking, lot less shrinkage).
Same stuff Grady uses on deck hatches, cockpit sealing, etc.

The color match also does great job of hiding less than perfect sealant installation and clean-up