Rewiring

['84Offshore]

After 10+yrs of ownership, I'm replacing the 32 yr old fuse block.
When removing it seemed like only (4) wires connected to it.
I was able to trace them as follows:
1) Cabin Power (wire going to a box located in the cabin on the port side)
2) Trim Tabs
3) VHF/GPS (Installed by myself)
4) Cabin Light (very small gauge wire)

Is there a wiring diagram for a '84 Offshore available?
I'm sure after 30yrs there are many wires not used anymore.
Looks like there is a 20A fuse under the dash....is this for the ignition (it's an I/O)?

Thanks in advance...........

 

[dstarok]

http://www.gradywhite.com/media/5010/1984-owners_.pdf

 

[jbrinch88]

I just redid mine, went with a blue seas panel. Text/call me if you need a hand or have any questions.

 

[ROBERTH]

I also replaced mine last year with the Blue Seas. Top notch device for sure! No more flaking out of radios, etc. Good clean solid connections.

 

[Lt.Mike]

That panel is nice and deserves a better connector...check this out.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d83XuNDnHLI

 

[g0tagrip]

What a great tip Lt. Mike!

 

[seasick]

That panel is nice and deserves a better connector...check this out.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d83XuNDnHLI

Always a contentious topic but here we go!
Per ABYC specs
11.14.5.7 Solder shall not be the sole means of mechanical connection in any circuit. If soldered, the connection shall be so located or supported as to minimize flexing of the conductor where the solder changes the flexible conductor into a solid conductor.
.

There are many issues with solder connections in marine applications or any application where there may be vibration. The heavier the wire gauge, the greater vibration plays a role. I personally don't use them except in certain instances where structural integrity is not an issue nor it a critical application. I prefer good mechanical crimps and silicone filled shrink tubing

 

[Fishtales]

Agree on the mechanical connection. Wiring should be neat and tied down at various points. Check out and Onslow Bay wiring job. Just a thing of beauty.
The older (I say with a grain of salt, because it is just the most recent ones that are cleanly wired) GW boats were a rats nest of wires. The newer boats are done better at te panels but nowhere to the standards top tier boats do it to. This is an improvement area that GW needs to work on - neater wiring, wire tied down and tinned wire. I hope they are using that today.

For this application you could use liquid plastic to seal the butt ends where the connectors come in contact with the wire insulator. I'd probably leave it as-is at this point. It is just as good if not better than the original wiring and that lasted for years.

My 2 pennies.

 

[Lt.Mike]

I thought that product was cool as heck. Had to share.
Of course you find these things when your 90% through a project. :roll:

I don't like merely crimping connections as corrosion always finds its way in and then its toast.
My own personal way of doing this differs slightly.
Here's what I do, maybe not what you do but its worked for me for over thirty years and I've never had to redo a connection.

1-remove the plastic shield that came with the connector or splice.
2-crimp the connection
3-solder the crimp making a complete connection
4-slide a marine shrink tube over the connection and heat until it fits and the sealant shows on the ends.
Again there always a counter opinion but I've been doing it this way a long time and it lasts.
It also looks as nice as it works.
Mike.

 

[Doc Stressor]

The main problem with soldering marine wire is that in a normal high temperature soldering job, the hot solder runs up the wire and makes the whole end brittle and subject to vibration damage.

But these low melting temp solder heat shrink connectors look like they may not have that problem. In addition, the adhesive heat shrink tubing should provide a good degree of support to the soldered joint. So they probably would meet marine best practice specs.

Very interesting!

 

[Fishtales]

Check it out here.
http://www.thehulltruth.com/onslow-bay- ... gging.html

 

[Lt.Mike]

The main problem with soldering marine wire is that in a normal high temperature soldering job, the hot solder runs up the wire and makes the whole end brittle and subject to vibration damage.

But these low melting temp solder heat shrink connectors look like they may not have that problem. In addition, the adhesive heat shrink tubing should provide a good degree of support to the soldered joint. So they probably would meet marine best practice specs.

Very interesting!

I suppose it'd be brittle if you overheat the wire but electrical solder melts pretty quick so no need to cook it. No need to glob it on either.
Like anything else its not immune to faulty workmanship. In fact I don't use a soldering iron or flame. I use a heat gun that has two settings and the lower works just fine. I find the heatgun easier and more controllable to use. Theory is nice but like I said I've been doing it this way for well over 30 years and never had one fail. I think your more likely to have to replace a loose or corroded connection that is only crimped than one that's been soldered as well.
I'll tell you what will run up a wire and make it brittle is moisture and corrosion. How many times have you had a bad wire and end up stripping it several inches up from the connector to find clean copper and get past that blackened corroded part? Solder didn't do that. Lack of sealing the connector and the wire end from the elements did. Even if you have an open end connection, with the wire tip soldered and marine wrap in place that moisture can't find its way through the strands of wire and up under the jacketing. If any corrosion happens all it'll be isolated to the open connection.
Mike.