Rigging hose replacement!

[Moxsea]

I'm looking to replace my rigging hose. I currently have the standard black hose, it looks like a vaccum hose. The joint near the collar of the motor has repeatedly torn open. If you were to replace it would you use stock hose (Black or Blue) or would you use another option? looking for suggestions before I launch end of the month.

Found hose at SIM: http://www.simyamaha.com/Yamaha_Rigging_Hose_p/abb-righs-bk-25.htm

Thanks for your advice!

 

[Fishtales]

Hi,

Same issue here. I had it down when lifting the engines out of the water, turn a bit to port prior to trimming up and there was no stress on them. If you raise them straight or turned to starboard they are stressed. They messed them up last year in the shop when winterizing.

The problem with the arrangement is you have to remove all the wiring and fuel lines to the darn motors to replace. This isn't a trivial job - especially with twins. Someone needs to come up with a clean solution that can be installed over the wiring & lines in place. That would be a big seller.....

 

[Tuna Man]

I have never bought anything from this place but, I like the idea of the this rigging hose:
http://www.iboats.com/Zippered-Rigging- ... _id.341267

 

[Fishtales]

Thanks guys... I found them online at Walmart (same part number - assuming same product) for $32 each (48").
Worth a shot. Will report back.

 

[onoahimahi]

The problem with the arrangement is you have to remove all the wiring and fuel lines to the darn motors to replace. This isn't a trivial job - especially with twins. Someone needs to come up with a clean solution that can be installed over the wiring & lines in place. That would be a big seller.....

I wonder if you could buy that solid hose from SIM and rip it down the middle on a table saw or similar to install over the wiring and lines in place. Put the seam down and hold it together with some black tie-wraps.

I did something similar with a piece of waste hose to protect my hull from my piling loop:

http://www.thehulltruth.com/boating-for ... -hoop.html

 

[Fishtales]

Thought about that, but if the stress breaks it when whole, I suspect it will be worse cut. I don't see the ends holding it too well either. Give it a try and let us know how it works out.

 

[jjb232G]

I've seen two pieces of corrugated hose ripped lenth wise and put on top of each other with the seams 180 degrees apart. Zip-tie every 3-4 inches.

 

[ROBERTH]

Moxsea, I purchased new hoses and fittings for Yamaha engine to hose and new fittings on transom. The new ones on the transom were larger so I had to resize the holes.
Andy at Sim convinced me to get the blue one's and it was the right choice. Not only do they look better, the don't get as hot in the sun.

The rigging is always fun. Get some rigging lube to help makes a big difference.

The intention here is to seal from water intrusion, so any zipper or cuts would let water in.
The hose screws on to the motor flanges and screws in to the transom flanges to make it mostly water tight. With a little silicone added to them, it will seal very well. I have not found any water to get in to transom area or motors after new rigging completed.

 

[Fishtales]

Got the zippered ones today. They look like an acceptable solution. Need to check if they will fit over the exiting rigging tubes though. The stock rigging tubes are broken at the motor end. Unfortunately this is an application issue in my opinion with the GW engine mounting. If you don't position the motors correctly prior to trimming out of the water, you can place stress on the rigging tubes and they break. Not as nice as new rigging tubes, but I'm not dealing with the all the work to disassemble and reassemble with the new tubes this time of year. I want to get her in. Maybe next fall, if I get her out early. Then again, maybe never as someone will just break them again....

 

[Moxsea]

Moxsea, I purchased new hoses and fittings for Yamaha engine to hose and new fittings on transom. The new ones on the transom were larger so I had to resize the holes.
Andy at Sim convinced me to get the blue one's and it was the right choice. Not only do they look better, the don't get as hot in the sun.

The rigging is always fun. Get some rigging lube to help makes a big difference.

The intention here is to seal from water intrusion, so any zipper or cuts would let water in.
The hose screws on to the motor flanges and screws in to the transom flanges to make it mostly water tight. With a little silicone added to them, it will seal very well. I have not found any water to get in to transom area or motors after new rigging completed.

Had to put the hose off until I repaired the trim motor caps and seals, what a pain. The center piston was oozing all over the lower unit. So, I changed all the piston seals. once they were off I saw everyone had been damaged, probably water beneath the seal wiped them out after this brutal winter.

I bit the bullet and ordered the blue hose from Andy. I also decided to change out the trim sensor and rubber boot at the wire connection since it is torn. just chipping away at issues since I see salt residue in the lower cowling.

Thanks for all the advice!

 

[ROBERTH]

Good choice. I know it is a bit of a pain to do, but will lasts many years with newer parts.
The boot part that is on the motor side is a newer version from the original and is hard plastic and seems to be much better engineered to withstand the stress from the hose. 2nd year and no signs of any weakening or damage and no water getting inside.
Andy recommended this upgrade and it was sound advice as he knew how much better it was in quality from original.

 

[DennisG01]

I replaced mine yesterday, that part went smoothly - not too hard to pull everything through. I did tape some things together and used a couple pull strings to make things easier. But overall, that part was OK. The question I have is in regards to the length of the hose. The old one was tattered and broken quite badly. What should I be looking for in relation to how long to make the hose? With the motor tilted all the way down, should there be just a slight dip to the hose? Is it just a "gut" feeling? I can always cut it shorter, but I can't go the other way! The engine is on a bracket.

 

[ROBERTH]

Hmm, I made mine about an inch longer that original if I recall, but with no reference, I think maybe measure length of existing cables and how they would bend when tilting up and down, then go from there. They need a bend so they can flex naturally in most installations.

 

[DennisG01]

Hmm, I made mine about an inch longer that original if I recall, but with no reference, I think maybe measure length of existing cables and how they would bend when tilting up and down, then go from there. They need a bend so they can flex naturally in most installations.

Thanks, Robert.

 

[ROBERTH]

Sure, np. Was able to take some pics this weekend to show you for any ideas how mine worked out.