Rod holder strength

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VCinRI

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Do any of you feel it would be necessary to reinforce a factory rod holder for
fighting fish on 80-130lb tackle?

I have seen some inserts that would convert existing straight rod holder in to swivel by just dropping them in.

Any opinions?

Thanks,
VC
 
When we purchased a dedicated planer rod, I knew I needed an additional (i.e. different) rod holder for it. The planer rod is a full length bent butt, so I installed a Lee, Heavy-Duty, Extra-length, 15-degree, swivel base holder on the starboard side, between the two factory-installed rod holders. The XL holder is 14" deep, instead of 10", so we have an insert to use it with regular rods. This rod holder was installed with the large, SS backing plate available from Lee.

The factory rod holders are only nine inches deep. If you put the swivel insert into them, then they don't have enough depth remaining to hold even a short bent butt properly. And swivel base holders are really meant for fighting fish with bent butts in the holders.
 
I would definitely put backing plates on the factory (medium duty) holders. I adjusted my front holders to point out 90 degrees and added new ones pointing at about 30 degrees out between the factory front holders and the rears which point straight back on my 265. I put Tigress backing plates on all of them to support the 50s w/short bent butts that get dropped in for Sword drifts.

If you're doing 80s or 130s you should definitely consider the upgraded heavy duty Lees. Problem you might face is with their extra length and size, if you have 15 or 30 degree holders pointed anything other than straight back they either won't fit your gunnels or will stick out at the bottom - real shin bangers, plus they won't look right.
 
VCinRI said:
Do any of you feel it would be necessary to reinforce a factory rod holder for
fighting fish on 80-130lb tackle?

I have seen some inserts that would convert existing straight rod holder in to swivel by just dropping them in.

Any opinions?

Thanks,
VC
Click to expand...
the factory rod holders,they will fail due to the extreme drag pressure,the rod holders will probably pull out of the gunnels as well...
personally,i would back the entire gunnel area up using 5/4" mahogany,laminated to the existing backing...i would use either the vertical swivel lees or the 15' swivels..the pins in the other rod holders will shear off,if the fish runs...you can try dropping a golf ball into the h/d lee holders,this will allow the rod to swing when the fish runs...but if you're gonna battle from the rod holder,i highly reccomend you back up the gunnel area,it will pull through...
 
I agree with all of the above, if you plan to fish heavy tackle like that I would add swivel mount rod holders. I would also recommend reinforcing all your rod holders, nomatter what you use if you fish offshore. I am switching all of my olders out to swivel mount lees. I only fish 30 and 50lb tackle but even with that, I feel it is necessary to reineforce your holders. I would highly encourage using a backingplate. I only fish 15-17lb of drag at strike and when I troll my rods are usually set at about 14lbs so the medium duty holders will hold as long as the fish does not run to the side really hard before the rod is removed from the holder. Even at a drag setting under 15 lb's, do it enough times and you may start to see cracks around your holders, or shear some pins. Lee's are a great holder, the smith holders are not bad either but I believe they they have less models to choose from and may not have a long swivel mount holder.
 
Remember; drag force is being applied at the reel. The reel actually acts as a clutch so the length of the lever is effectively negated and the pressure applied to the rod holder will not exceed that of the drag.

Do to the relatively small fiberglass surface which the rod holder has to transfer this force it might be worth while to take a look at it in heavy applications. Can’t imagine that anything under 20-25# of drag would amount to a hill of beans.

Perhaps Jimmy knows the tensile strength (psi) of the reinforced fiberglass mat typically used in fiberglass boats. If you know that along with the materil and thickness of the structural backing in the gunnels it’s pretty easy to calculate the amount of drag your holders will withstand.
 
jimmy's marine service said:
VCinRI said:
Do any of you feel it would be necessary to reinforce a factory rod holder for
fighting fish on 80-130lb tackle?

I have seen some inserts that would convert existing straight rod holder in to swivel by just dropping them in.

Any opinions?

Thanks,
VC
Click to expand...
the factory rod holders,they will fail due to the extreme drag pressure,the rod holders will probably pull out of the gunnels as well...
personally,i would back the entire gunnel area up using 5/4" mahogany,laminated to the existing backing...i would use either the vertical swivel lees or the 15' swivels..the pins in the other rod holders will shear off,if the fish runs...you can try dropping a golf ball into the h/d lee holders,this will allow the rod to swing when the fish runs...but if you're gonna battle from the rod holder,i highly reccomend you back up the gunnel area,it will pull through...
Click to expand...

Jimmy,I was just wondering if you ever had to do a gunnel repair because of a failed rod holder and would you have any pics?Thanks.

2005 300 Marlin w/F250's
 
You guys also have to realize that even though you set your drag to a certain lb setting, it can rattle loose and change. Also, if a drag washer is worn a bit, it will not give an even drag curve and may peak above where you set it. It only takes one split second for the force to be above what the fiberglass can handle and it will deform. Fiberglass does not spring back like some metals and plastics do, so once it deforms, it is going to stay that way. Not sure what the gunwales can handle to be honest, would be a great question for Grady. If I knew the fiberglass layup and thickness I could probably find out an approx. limit given I had the time. Grady knows that many of their bigger boats are used offshore so I'm sure they can withstand normal usage. Using 80's and 130's is not normal usage, especially if they are fished from the holder.
 
Are the gunnels backed up and glassed in with 1/2 in. plywood now ?
 
Not sure out plywood backing, but Grady does not use backing plates on rod holders, many heavy duty rod holders have optional backing plates which help to distribute the load, which leads to less possibility of damage. Also, Grady uses medium duty rod holders, they are what 90% of boat builders use, some even use ones of lesser quality. Most boat builders do not install Heavy Duty Rod holders with backing plates unless it is done custom, after market, or the boat is a true big game battle wagon and its intended main purpose is to fish big fish. Grady is by no means giving you a bad rod holder install, they install rod holders for the general population of their users. Most of us out there do not need to worry about the way they are installed and backed unless they do a lot of blue water fishing. If you do, it is not a bad upgrade to invest in, and the job is not that hard to be done by the average person either. The only guys who NEED to reinforce rod holders and upgrade are those who fish offshore almost all the time and are targeting fish that avg over 100lbs, ie: bluefin tuna, blue marlin, big sharks. If you may occasionally fish for a shark and may hook an occasional big eye, you are fine unless you plan to fish the rod from the rod holder.
 
Gunnel rod holders are mounted like gunnel cleats and not far from them, with similar sized fasteners.
I can tow a boat from my gunnel cleats, or be towed.

Either the rod will snap off or the lighter rod holder will fail before the Grady gunnel does.

Manufacturers of rod holders have no idea what boat they will be installed in, including the ones with just glass and no plywood backing.
The backing plates spread out the forces to more glass area. That's what the plywood already does, if one is concerned with their Grady gunnel.

If the holder manuf needs the plate to save the holder from failing, that's another story.

Check with Lee on what they recommend on rod holder class vs. gear class.
 
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