I spoke to the dealer and they said no issue with a Grady being stored on a roller trailer. I remember some posts I have read about bunk trailers being better then rollers for storage. Spreads the load over more area. Of course he has a load rite roller he wants to sell me. The model is a 2011 Loadrite Elite Model: 29T-9700TG2 and I am putting a 2006 282 Sailfish on it. Help on this would be great.
Roller vs. Bunk Trailer
- Thread starter ayacht
- Start date
It's close. Your hull weight about 6800 pounds and your motors probably weigh about 1200 pounds. Add fuel and the trailer and the always present 'junk' and it looks like that trailer is at about capacity. Remember that gas weighs about 6+ pounds per gallon and water weight 7 1/5 pounds per gallon. Ideally you want to have at least 10% space load capacity.
Per Load Rite, the maximum bow eye to transom length is 27 feet. You length is probably pretty close if not over that number. Personally, for that load, I might lean towards a bigger triple trailer If you have a pulpit, the maximum overall length of the hull is longer than the entire trailer.
Hopefully, someone on the forum will have personal experience with trailering that hull.
Per Load Rite, the maximum bow eye to transom length is 27 feet. You length is probably pretty close if not over that number. Personally, for that load, I might lean towards a bigger triple trailer If you have a pulpit, the maximum overall length of the hull is longer than the entire trailer.
Hopefully, someone on the forum will have personal experience with trailering that hull.
Are you going to store your boat or actually tow it, and if so, how far over what kind of roads? I'm biased in favor of bunk trailers for the better support they obviously provide, but then again, I needed it for the type of trailering I wanted to be able to do, which included long hauls over bad roads. A poorly fitted bunk trailer is probably the worst in terms of proper support for the hull. My trailers have been custom made for my hull, so that the bunks fit it perfectly. This takes time, and if the trailer manufacturer doesn't have a pattern for your specific hull, then they will have to take measurements, perhaps at extra cost. The right choice depends on your needs, including the slope of the ramps you will frequent, and your fear of dumping the boat on the concrete.
I will mostly be using it to store over the winter. So in an out twice a year. Maybe the occasional haul to bring her over to the bay side of the cape or somewhere else. I will have to haul her home about 130 miles and back twice a year for the storage on mostly highway over 80% of the ride. Other then that just the quick haul out due to a storm too. I hope that helps.
With your intended use, I think any style of the proper length that is properly weight rated will suit you just fine.
I ran the calc. myself and it looks like the trailer is too small. I got about 10,600 lb for the fully outfitted weight. Also it does have the pulpit. According to the specs centerline length is 28 ft and the trailer is also only rated up to 27 ft. So I think the previous poster it correct it is just too small by one size?
Link to the specs for the 29T9700TG2
http://www.loadrite.com/LoadRite-GalvanizedTrailers-Roller-Tandem.php
Link to the specs for the 29T9700TG2
http://www.loadrite.com/LoadRite-GalvanizedTrailers-Roller-Tandem.php
I'm not knowledgeable enough to properly size the length of a trailer that will be a good fit for your boat. That would be a question for other 282 Sailfish owners, or for a GW dealer who sells new ones. Check out the available axle ratings, and I think you'll find that 5200#'s is the maximum available for dual axle 10,000# trailers, and that includes the weight of the trailer. I wouldn't want to invest in a triple axle if I didn't have to, but you may be getting close.
I had a heavy duty 8 lug dual axle made for my Sailfish. It is rated higher than a standard triple. I have had a roller on another boat and keeping up the maintenance in the rollers and hardware was a PITA, but man did it load and unload easily!
ayacht said:
A common problem with pulpit equipped boats is winch contact during launch. Whichever trailer you choose, be sure to require an at-the-ramp physical load/un-load try-out before paying the final bill. I didn't do this and ended up struggling to make it right over the coarse of 2-3 months afterward.
I went with a roller for ease of launch/haul (even though it's once a year). Bunks give more support when they're set up properly but way too many are not set up properly and you can see them splaying to the side, a disaster waiting to happen.
Application is the key...If you are regularly trailering the boat there is nothing like rollers. I have rollers and they're great, boat is easy off/easy on!...my son has bunks with his Grady and it can be very tough especially on some ramps. Can't comment on the specific model you are looking at...however I have found (the hard way) that the Tie-Down components of the Load Rite Trailer including the brake actuator and brake assembly are poor quality. If you ever have a Load Rite problem that transends the dealer...good luck...I've found loadrite customer service to be nonexistant.
My two cents,
GOA
My two cents,
GOA
Based on all the advice I think for my little use bunks will make the most sense. Less maint, more support and I will only load and unload once each per year. I am looking at an aluminum tri axle venture bunk trailer rated at 10600 lb. The trailers seem good and a buddy has one that he is very happy with.
I'm on my 2nd Sailfish. First was a 252G and now a 282. I tow extensively. All aluminium I beams trailers are basically the same with the exception of being either single or double bent. Venture trailers are a single bend, with slightly more expensive trailers being double bent. Mine have both been double bent I beams. If I was rarely towing, I don't think I would be concerned.
First trailer was a 10k dual axle aluminum Loadmaster for the 252G. Bunks. Good trailer, towed well. Always felt safe and secure, but it was right at the max weight when everything was loaded.
For the 282 I have a 15k triple axle aluminum Seahawk. Also bunks. Great trailer, tows awesome.
I load and unload by myself about 90% of the time. For the size of boat, I actually find there is no issue at all with properly adjusted bunks with just simple guide posts on the back. Having bow support bunks centers the boat fairly easy.
Process is straight forward. Submerge trailer to a point that you can float the boat on, but not too deep that the front bunks do not center the boat. Have enough strap pulled out that you can clip in- about 6 foot or so. Crank enough to pull boat up taught. Submerge boat and trailer further so it can be cranked up to bow roller.
I can do the entire boat load process by myself on the ramp in 5-10 minutes.
Keys to me- Make sure your trailer has SS hardware. Standard trailers have galv. Worth the very little difference in a very short time.
Don't buy anything with Tie Down associated with it. Get Kodiak brakes without doubt. Don't need stainless, the Nickel Cad works great.
Buy front center bunks and trailer guides for the back.
Buy a trailer well over the boat weight. 10k for a 282 in my opinion is just enough, and a 12k or 15k would be more suitable. Loaded with fuel, water, gear, etc, the boat and trailer weight combo is going to be well over the 10k mark.
First trailer was a 10k dual axle aluminum Loadmaster for the 252G. Bunks. Good trailer, towed well. Always felt safe and secure, but it was right at the max weight when everything was loaded.
For the 282 I have a 15k triple axle aluminum Seahawk. Also bunks. Great trailer, tows awesome.
I load and unload by myself about 90% of the time. For the size of boat, I actually find there is no issue at all with properly adjusted bunks with just simple guide posts on the back. Having bow support bunks centers the boat fairly easy.
Process is straight forward. Submerge trailer to a point that you can float the boat on, but not too deep that the front bunks do not center the boat. Have enough strap pulled out that you can clip in- about 6 foot or so. Crank enough to pull boat up taught. Submerge boat and trailer further so it can be cranked up to bow roller.
I can do the entire boat load process by myself on the ramp in 5-10 minutes.
Keys to me- Make sure your trailer has SS hardware. Standard trailers have galv. Worth the very little difference in a very short time.
Don't buy anything with Tie Down associated with it. Get Kodiak brakes without doubt. Don't need stainless, the Nickel Cad works great.
Buy front center bunks and trailer guides for the back.
Buy a trailer well over the boat weight. 10k for a 282 in my opinion is just enough, and a 12k or 15k would be more suitable. Loaded with fuel, water, gear, etc, the boat and trailer weight combo is going to be well over the 10k mark.
The weight calculation is below. The total with 10% on a 2006 Sailfish 282 is 10619 lb. The total for the trailer is 10625 lb. Granted it is right there but I am not a trailer every weekend guy. Use it once to put her in and once to take her out. Haul it back to my home (probably light on fuel, water and gear). The weight without the 10% is like 9654 lb. So this trailer is plenty big enough for the boat with 1k to spare and will be the correct fit. Next size up is much longer and would not fit the boat. The load rite was way to small at 9700 lb and I do not need the maint. of rollers for my towing needs. I will have help to unload and load so that much better that others can go it alone with a bunk.
Hull 6781
Engines 1168
Fuel 1449
Water 256
Total 9654
Plus 10% 10619
Hull 6781
Engines 1168
Fuel 1449
Water 256
Total 9654
Plus 10% 10619
I'd probably be just fine with the 10k if it was just for a few times a year to tow back and forth from a house.
As for a heavier load trailer being bigger- that should make no difference. The next step up I-beam trailers go with larger I-beams, not a longer trailer. If someone is informing you that the next size up will not fit the boat then they are trying to sell you something, not trying to actually fit your needs. The cost difference between 10,12, and 15k is very minimal.
Here's a pic of my 15k trailer. Notice the I-beams actually are shorter than the boat, and the bunks extend to the end of the hull perfectly. There is just the right amount of room up front to extend past the bow pulpit, and I would not want any shorter of a tongue.
Total length of boat on trailer from tip of the tongue to back of the engines in trailering position is 37 feet. In down position I can get just a hair over 35 feet.
As far as the weight goes....Please excuse my reluctance to accept those weights as realistic, but my real world experience simply does not match up. Items like rocket launchers, outriggers, radar, anchor and rode, ropes and rigging, tackle boxes, tool boxes with tools, extra filters, life raft, spotlight, safety items, etc. add up quick. Throw in a couple of SCUBA tanks, a cooler with ice, chairs, etc. and the weight quickly climbs.
I agree that you can unload the boat and the 10k (carrying weight not GVWR) will be acceptable. Be sure to check and MAKE SURE that the 10k is the actual carrying capacity of the trailer, not the GVWR. The Ibeam trailer will weigh about 1700 lbs or so and some trailer manuf will make their trailers sound better by listing the GVWR which includes the weight of the trailer. A 10K GVWR trailer only has a capacity of 8300lbs.
As for a heavier load trailer being bigger- that should make no difference. The next step up I-beam trailers go with larger I-beams, not a longer trailer. If someone is informing you that the next size up will not fit the boat then they are trying to sell you something, not trying to actually fit your needs. The cost difference between 10,12, and 15k is very minimal.
Here's a pic of my 15k trailer. Notice the I-beams actually are shorter than the boat, and the bunks extend to the end of the hull perfectly. There is just the right amount of room up front to extend past the bow pulpit, and I would not want any shorter of a tongue.
Total length of boat on trailer from tip of the tongue to back of the engines in trailering position is 37 feet. In down position I can get just a hair over 35 feet.
As far as the weight goes....Please excuse my reluctance to accept those weights as realistic, but my real world experience simply does not match up. Items like rocket launchers, outriggers, radar, anchor and rode, ropes and rigging, tackle boxes, tool boxes with tools, extra filters, life raft, spotlight, safety items, etc. add up quick. Throw in a couple of SCUBA tanks, a cooler with ice, chairs, etc. and the weight quickly climbs.
I agree that you can unload the boat and the 10k (carrying weight not GVWR) will be acceptable. Be sure to check and MAKE SURE that the 10k is the actual carrying capacity of the trailer, not the GVWR. The Ibeam trailer will weigh about 1700 lbs or so and some trailer manuf will make their trailers sound better by listing the GVWR which includes the weight of the trailer. A 10K GVWR trailer only has a capacity of 8300lbs.
ayacht, this is what I was trying to pass on on the other site. Great info here, I wish I could have had as much information before buying my trailer. GulfC