Routine Maintenance/things to know (265 Express)

[slapshot1848]

Greetings!

As a new owner of the 265 express, are there any specific maintenance items or things to know to keep an eye out for regarding this boat? For example, at the end of the year things that need to be done, maybe items mid season to take a look at, and also when refueling...how much oil should I add in the oil reserves vs amount of fuel added. Also, will any grade fuel work or should I aim for premium...

Thanks in Advance!

 

[richie rich]

Fog engines, change lower unit oil, clean and grease prop shaft, flush engines, fill tanks with fresh gas and marine stable as recommended, spray all contacts with WD type product, fully charge battery or leave on battery tender....or take inside if in freezing weather for the winter, add RV/Marine antifreeze to all pipes, drains, hoses, bilge area, wash and wax the boat, remove your electronics for winter if you can, cover/shrink wrap and use ventilation to keep mold down including a damp rid product to remove moisture,,,,,you should get a winter storage/winterization list from a local shop and see everything they do to a boat before storage for a reference/starting point. Also get a shop manual for the engine

 

[HMBJack]

I had a 265 and now own a 330. One's just bigger than the other.

My advice: Try to keep your interior as dry as possible. I use a small dehumidifier to remove (not move around) water in the air. The one I use is called Eva Dry I think (about $80 on Amazon). This will keep mold and smell to a minimum.

In addition, I try to keep my bilge as dry as possible as well becuase guess where that moisture goes - yep - right up into the cabin. This is a harder task as water seems to enter the bilge from many places. On the 265, I found the plastic scuppers on the main deck leaked a bit. I had to remove and re-seal them to stop water leaks into the bilge. Also, the lift out containers on your port and starboard stern corners leak alot as well. Spray a hose on them and you will see what I mean. 265 is a good boat. Hope you enjoy it!

 

[amansithm]

$80 on Amazon). This will keep mold and smell to a minimum.thank you!




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[Salinity Now]

Use "No Odor" packets in the head, Ive bought one box at west marine, and its lasted over a year (granted I dont use the head much) but i can tell once I pump out the head, if i don't add a pack right after, the smell is noticeable very soon, add a pack to the water and flush....smell goes away.

Check your o-rings on the fuel fills, the water run off channels from the bow/windows run right over the top of those fuel fills.

Dont worry about how much oil you have in the reservoir indirect relation to how much gas you add, it doesn't matter (understandably, as long as you have enough for BOTH to complete your trip). I keep my oil tanks full all the time, I like the idea of having good head pressure for those pumps to the engines, lack of air in the system sitting prevents drying out of any oil/film on tanks & it keeps down on tank sweating/moisture. Seems like the bilge can be quite a trap for moist air on these boats, so its worth it to me.

Either way, just know, no matter how much gas or oil you have in the tank(s) or how little, their correlation is completely independent of how much one has vs the other. Just make sure you have enough (of both products) to cover your distance for the trip.

 

[grady33]

If you plan to keep this boat a long time, I would invest in a good canvas (poly guard) boat cover. Not only does it keep mold down, it will probably pay for itself in a few years. I purchased one from boat covers direct a few years back and only wished I purchased one in 2000 when I bought the boat. Would have saved me a ton of time waxing the boat.

 

[seasick]

I suggest that you get and read a copy of the boat owner's manual AND the engine owner's manual (different than the service manual). Both have recommended maintenance lists and good advice.
You can get the boat manual from the Grady web site. I can't remember where I got my motor manual, Yamaha perhaps?

 

[ROBERTH]

Yamaha manual from SIM Yamaha. Check all areas that require caulk to ensure seals and no water access to core.

 

[bc282]

particularly the end of the season/winterizing list of things to do is a long one and a PITA, but you gotta do it and do it right if you want to keep things nice and dependable and ready for turn key in the Spring.

Regular stuff? hmm, what comes to mind other than what others have mentioned:
- 2 stoker? check oil reserve tank(s) and ensure you have more than enough for trip (always carry extra oil!)
- 4 stroke? regularly check oil level and condition from dip stick (should inspect each trip)
- inspect and drain water from fuel filters (easier with Racor type filters with visible bowl and drain cocks--before every trip! otherwise once a season min.)
- inspect gear oil (cloudy/milky means contaminated with water, you may have a lower end leak)
- inspect prop, lower drive for damage or possible line wrap
- inspect bilge for water and smell (gas or other? should do before each trip)
- check seals/o-rings around fuel caps, water fill caps,
- Corrosion-X, BoeShield or similar anti-rust spray on elec. terminals/connection
- tighten any loose screws (always keep a multi-bit screwdriver handy on my boat)
- keep head clean and holding tank flushed and empty
- one or twice a season try to check and top off battery fluid level if using wet lead/acid batteries
- got canvas and snaps? wax stick or "snap-stick" lube your snaps to keep then removable and from seizing up together.
- can't remember the name, but special 3M plastisizer/cleaner spray on your eisenglass to keep them UV protected and from premature cracking, clouding
- exercise sea cocks or valves, especially ones very infrequently used (never us the AC, but try to exercise that seacock a couple times a season)
- as per Grady manual (just read this one myself) open deck plate(s) and fresh water rinse the top of the alum. fuel cell(s) twice a season; leave deck plates open to help dry after rinse
- grease all points (nipples) on engine(s)
- inspect steering and hydraulic fluid levels
- check all lights (markers, cabin, console, cockpit, etc., catalogue and carry spares)
- check battery cables/wires and terminals/connections
- after you are done with all of the above, sit down, drink beer and relax because there is no more time left for boating :mrgreen: just jokin'

PS. i've heard much debate and logic or mislogic on using premium fuel for boats, but i started to do it last season and it seems that the boat is happier AND faster with the premium fuel. My yami gauges and "seat of my butt" tell me that i cruise 1-1.5 knots on average faster with premium (91 Oct) over mid grade (89 Oct) which i usually filled up with. Local Co-Op fill station sells "Premium marked marine" fuel for same price as regular, so i'll continue to take the premium and take the "perceived" improvement of speed with it.