Routing Starboard

[Blaugrana]

As it’s the first time I am working with King Starboard, I was curious if anyone has recommendations on router bits used? I am between a Rabbet and Straight bit. Also, any advice would be appreciated.

I ended up purchasing a panel fromTAP Plastics and will route the backside so it sits nicely on the dash covering the compartment. Then will cut out the two holes for my displays. They already did the rounded edges and radial corners.

With it being just 3/8in, what’s the most I could possibly take off the back? Thinking 1/8 - 3/16. This will be where the screws will be inserted.

 

[seasick]

you would use a bottom bearing rabbit bit but the bit will determine the depth of the cut. The following link shows a bit with interchangeable bearings which allow for different cut depths.

https://www.amazon.com/Freud-Rabbeting-interchangeable-bearings-32-504/dp/B0000225ZR

Note that these type of bit needs a smooth edge to follow.

 

[Fishtales]

Agree. I'd do a 1/4 round over on the front edge and leave the rear flat.

 

[glacierbaze]

Give yourself some working room around your router. The plastic 'sawdust' from KSB will get in everything within 10 feet of your router, unless your vacuum system is a lot better than mine. I put down a tarp to catch as much as possible, to make clean up easier.

 

[Fishtales]

good point. use a pad under it as well to keep small pieces especially from shifting. makes it easy peasy.

 

[Blaugrana]

you would use a bottom bearing rabbit bit but the bit will determine the depth of the cut. The following link shows a bit with interchangeable bearings which allow for different cut depths.

https://www.amazon.com/Freud-Rabbeting-interchangeable-bearings-32-504/dp/B0000225ZR

Note that these type of bit needs a smooth edge to follow.

Thanks!

Pretty sure I will take off approximately 1/4 -1/2 from each side except for one where I might need to take an inch.

For the one where I will be removing more from the back, is it better to use a straight or rabbet in that scenario? Or a combination of both?

 

[Blaugrana]

thanks for all the feedback!

I’ll be using a handheld and doing the work at my parents since that’s where the boat is. No vacuum system and since my dad is a neat freak, I might be stuck doing the work outside if it’s that messy.

The panel should be delivered next week so hoping to tackle this in the next 2-3 weeks

 

[glacierbaze]

Much easier to work with a table mounted router, than a handheld one. Remember that you will need to countersink your screws in the thinned down edge, so leave enough for that.

 

[Blaugrana]

Yes, I keep reading to countersink the screws and to make the pilot holes the size of the screw rather than a size smaller as you would with wood.

Ive seen some folks that have used a screw every 2-3 inches and others very spaced apart. My plan is to minimize the holes and see if I can target that lip where the lid sits on in case someone wants to revert back

 

[Hookup1]

From your description you are looking to do a quality job. My best advice is to buy or borrow a router table. Too hard to do right without one. Practice cutting too. There is a right way to feed material into the router bit too. Feeding the wrong way will kick out and hack the material.

 

[Blaugrana]

So I just got my piece from TAP Plastics and I am routing a bit from the backside so it recesses into that dash compartment....

Any idea what is causing the rough cut? Am I not going fast enough? Moving it too slow, etc? RPMs not high enough...

Brand new bits, also

Considering this is the back, it’s not a big deal but I want to learn for the future.

 

[Hookup1]

There is a proper direction to feed the router bit. That may be your problem. Look at YouTube videos.

Take some scraps and practice. Are you using a router table?

 

[Boosted1]

To me it almost looks like either the router speed was too high or you went to fast feeding the board in causing the board to melt and stick to itself? I never messed with starboard but I have used all sorts of pvc trim boards over the years and I know speed and sharp blades/bits plays a big role in the quality of cuts. But, I’m here to learn about starboard as well, curious to see what others say.

 

[Hookup1]

I have done some starboard work. Mostly rounding edges or cutting out templates. It works much like wood. For straight cuts I use my table saw. No speed adjustment on my router so proper feeding is important. When in doubt cut slow. I do use a table.

Starboard is sandable but you should be getting better results on your edges. Let the bit do the work - if motor slows down feed slower. Its possible with a wide cut like you are doing the router may be underpowered.

Try this:

 

[glacierbaze]

Show us your router, and bit. Did you get a table, or did you stick to hand held? Half of the job should be screwed, or clamped down, either the work or the tool. Hard to control a handheld and a loose board. A P-lam router is harder to control than a router with a larger surface.

 

[Blaugrana]

Thanks - I’m using a Dewalt 20v router. Below are some notes from my effort...

- Out of 7 speeds , I put it around 4.5-5 as I thought starboard was considered a soft wood per the manual.
- Clamped the panel to my table
- Each side I went approximately 4-5 times, adjusting the height and width so I didn’t eat up a ton
- Went counterclockwise (after watching the video, I need to double check if I misread the bit)


I still need to take some more off the back so will reduce the speed and go slower with the machine. Maybe I pushed it too much.

What’s odd to me is that the depth cut didn’t leave thesame look on the outside, only the width cut left that mark on the inside.

Router Bit used: https://www.amazon.com/Yonico-14705q-Rabbet-Router-Bearings/dp/B00KZM1XEA


Router: https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DCW60...t=&hvlocphy=9003516&hvtargid=pla-698493525499

 

[glacierbaze]

I have never used an adjustable speed router, didn't know they made them. To me, bit speed is your friend for a smooth cut. The key is finding the right speed to push the router. Hard to hold that router perfectly flat, with that heavy battery so high up. Wobble may be some of your problem.
Hate to be redundant, but you make that cut in one pass on a table with a fence instead of a bearing guide. For the price of a good carbide bit.

 

[ROBERTH]

I have a Freud Table mounted router and it runs full speed when working with Starboard and does a good job! For sure, it has to run the correct direction or will chip out.
Also, I use Freud router bits. I have seen too many complaints of those cheaper bits you can get from Amazon/Ebay, etc. Some would even bend under pressure or get dull very fast! I don't trust them. The price of the Freud bits hurts, but you get what you pay for.

 

[seasick]

If the roughness is hard bumps, your speed is too high, Direction of cut should be counterclockwise if the bit spins clockwise looing down at the router. You may also want to take a smaller (less deep cut. That you can do my using a bearing larger than the final cut. you may need several passes with smaller bearings. You should also sand the edge that you are using as a guide if it is rough. Check the bearing on the bit for buildup frequently

 

[Blaugrana]

I have a Freud Table mounted router and it runs full speed when working with Starboard and does a good job! For sure, it has to run the correct direction or will chip out.
Also, I use Freud router bits. I have seen too many complaints of those cheaper bits you can get from Amazon/Ebay, etc. Some would even bend under pressure or get dull very fast! I don't trust them. The price of the Freud bits hurts, but you get what you pay for.

Agreed. I was about to purchase a Freud bit but was tempted by the Yonico based on reviews/ demos sites had and it being available at HD as well.

Definitely next job I’ll upgrade to one of those. I bought a Skil router set that did a nice job on wood and had none of these issues. Unfortunately, has a ton of bits but none with the rabbets