Rub rail protector

[w&w]

Our marina slip has a piling just off the bow of our 208. (see pict). A couple of times this year when I've executed a less than perfect docking, the rub rail has made significant contact with that immovable and rusty structure. The rub rail's stainless steel overlap now has noticeable gouges from the encounters. Also, the anchor chain has left some minor scratches. Being a new boat, I would love to protect the rub rail from any more dings, scratches, and what not.

Any suggestions (besides the obvious, “don't hit the piling”) ? Whatever is used can and should be completely sacrificial.

Sticky back vinyl or rubber strips? (Can't find anything on 'net). Custom piece of wood (how to fasten it)? Or anything else?

and I do realize that rub rails are there to be beaten, but I want to retain that new boat look for as long as possible.

thanks

Picts below to illustrate .

 

[Zebulon]

Small world.....you're at Brandt Cove too. Dave has done wonders with the place.
Look familiar

 

[seasick]

It's killing me not to say "Dont''hit..............
but I understand. I have seen on some docks where a section of large profile dock edge has been tie wrapped to the pile ring. The idea is to make it fat enough so that the hull hits the 'bumper' before the rub rail hits the piling.
You should be able to find dock edge or flat fenders that are normally bolted to a dock edge but in your case, attached to the ring. The tie wraps have to go wither between the plastic sleeves on your ring or you may need to remove one piece to gain some space for the tie wraps (long ones)

 

[w&w]

Small world.....you're at Brandt Cove too. Dave has done wonders with the place.View attachment 15560
Look familiar

Yes he has. So happy to be there. If we haven't yet, hope to meet you soon. If you can't tell, we are at slip #27. I think the only 208 .

 

[w&w]

It's killing me not to say "Dont''hit..............
but I understand. I have seen on some docks where a section of large profile dock edge has been tie wrapped to the pile ring. The idea is to make it fat enough so that the hull hits the 'bumper' before the rub rail hits the piling.
You should be able to find dock edge or flat fenders that are normally bolted to a dock edge but in your case, attached to the ring. The tie wraps have to go wither between the plastic sleeves on your ring or you may need to remove one piece to gain some space for the tie wraps (long ones)

Thanks for the idea. I have been trying to figure our how to fender the piling. With the overhang of the deck, it would need be substantial. One slip has a carpeted 2×4 angled (45°) between the two dock pieces. If I can't come up with a boat solution, I will talk to owner about dock/piling solution - he has been exceptionally cooperative about mods.

But I still would have issues with the anchor chain.

And yes, I know the best solution is to NOT HIT THE FREAKING PILING. but the other boat owners DO need entertainment once in awhile.

 

[Zebulon]

Yes he has. So happy to be there. If we haven't yet, hope to meet you soon. If you can't tell, we are at slip #27. I think the only 208 .

I think your right next to my land neighbors in the blue Regulator??

 

[Zebulon]

The Marlin behind you posts on here also.

 

[DennisG01]

"Fender board". I could sit here and type up how to do this, but I'm going to take the easy way out and just suggest you google for how to make one. I have no doubt there are videos out there on how to do this. The trick is going to be dealing with your bow flair where a typical fender hanging off the base of a stanchion is going to "disappear" into the bow flair. So... here's another google assignment -- google for "low freeboard fender". Tie/secure/clip the fenders tightly to the stanchion base and then hang the fender board. There are all sorts of fender hangers that are designed to quickly clip onto bow rails for easy attachment of the fender board - they can be used around the stanchion for the fenders, too. Many of these fender hangers offer easy adjustment of the line. Make this setup to hang between your first two stanchions and I think you'll have something that will easily do the job.

Or... can you move to a different slip?

 

[SkunkBoat]

Forgive this old-timer's cynicism
Replace the stainless with rubber.... or rope....like the good old days....then you can rub against things with your rub rail...imagine that!

 

[w&w]

The Marlin behind you posts on here also.

I think your right next to my land neighbors in the blue Regulator??

I think you might have me displaced. As you walk down the southern ramp

I think your right next to my land neighbors in the blue Regulator??

I have a feeling you may have misplaced us. Third slip on left from south ramp. I think that Regulator is 3 or 4 away.

Right across from us is Tim's Sea Ox (got swamped during storm) . I am uploading old satellite pict. I have colored our slip with red. Name on transom, Sea Star. Stop by and say hello if wife and/or I are on board.

 

[w&w]

"Fender board". I could sit here and type up how to do this, but I'm going to take the easy way out and just suggest you google for how to make one. I have no doubt there are videos out there on how to do this. The trick is going to be dealing with your bow flair where a typical fender hanging off the base of a stanchion is going to "disappear" into the bow flair. So... here's another google assignment -- google for "low freeboard fender". Tie/secure/clip the fenders tightly to the stanchion base and then hang the fender board. There are all sorts of fender hangers that are designed to quickly clip onto bow rails for easy attachment of the fender board - they can be used around the stanchion for the fenders, too. Many of these fender hangers offer easy adjustment of the line. Make this setup to hang between your first two stanchions and I think you'll have something that will easily do the job.

Or... can you move to a different slip?

I know fender boards. I will have to research thoroughly and see if they are a practical solution. I do know they will do the job. But remember, this is a small boat with a very narrow walkway from cockpit to bow and very little storage space. I have kinda discounted fender boards because of their size and ease of putting in place.
BUT I will look further into them .

Yes, I "could" asked to be moved. But Dave has done such a great job since he bought the marina in 2019 that there is HUGE demand for space now. But still, that is not off the table.

Thanks for the input.

 

[DennisG01]

Oh... anchor chain... minor scratches can be buffed out. But, how much anchor chain do you have? One option is to install an anchor roller. You have really good access so it would be very simple. Look at Windline website for examples (good manufacturer).

 

[w&w]

Forgive this old-timer's cynicism
Replace the stainless with rubber.... or rope....like the good old days....then you can rub against things with your rub rail...imagine that!

Essentially, that's what I want to do without actually replacing. I want something like rope, rubber, wood, or vinyl that will easily attach (stick) to existing rub rail.

YES, RUB against a rub rail with no trading paint, gel coat or anything. You know what I want.

Thank you

 

[w&w]

Oh... anchor chain... minor scratches can be buffed out. But, how much anchor chain do you have? One option is to install an anchor roller. You have really good access so it would be very simple. Look at Windline website for examples (good manufacturer).

It's not so much how much anchor chain I have, it's about how much chain these old arms, hands, and shoulders can keep away from the rub rail. My right wing just came out of a sling (rotator cuff repair) about two weeks ago. Very little strength and coordination in my dominant arm. Cant even cast a lure.

I will look into the anchor roller. Thanks.

 

[DennisG01]

It's not so much how much anchor chain I have, it's about how much chain these old arms, hands, and shoulders can keep away from the rub rail. My right wing just came out of a sling (rotator cuff repair) about two weeks ago. Very little strength and coordination in my dominant arm. Cant even cast a lure.

I will look into the anchor roller. Thanks.

There is another idea - but it really does depend on length of chain.

But, knowing your current "condition"... it's probably even more about how much chain you have - maybe going back to all rope for a while would be easier.

 

[w&w]

There is another idea - but it really does depend on length of chain.

But, knowing your current "condition"... it's probably even more about how much chain you have - maybe going back to all rope for a while would be easier.

After our last exchange, that was exactly my thought. We dont use anchor that much, so I could probably get away with - carefully inspecting rope after each use.
-Thanks.

 

[SkunkBoat]

Essentially, that's what I want to do without actually replacing. I want something like rope, rubber, wood, or vinyl that will easily attach (stick) to existing rub rail.

YES, RUB against a rub rail with no trading paint, gel coat or anything. You know what I want.

Thank you

Well, there are plenty of screws holding the stainless so you could attach using longer screws. Look at the various rub rail inserts and find one with a shape that will lay over the stainless.
I''m guessing you just mean the bow area.
idk if the stainless is one piece and you don't want to cut. You could replace the stainless near the bow with a rubber insert of the same shape.

 

[DennisG01]

Don't go too crazy with inspecting it. While there is merit to a chain being more durable, the primary reason for chain is help the anchor set (and stay set) better. All rope will be just fine - many, many boaters use rope only. Tip: If you aren't doing this already, launch and retrieve the anchor OVER the bowrail. This allows you to essentially use the bowrail as a poor man's anchor roller (it can work if the chain is short, too). The big benefit is that it allows you stand back from the edge and stand up straight. You'll need to lean over to do the initial launch and final retrieve, but even that is easier than under the rail. You can sort of do the same thing using the rubrail, but it's even easier using the rubrail.

Skunk - great idea! A length of vinyl/rubber hose that is cut in half lengthwise would do it.

 

[w&w]

Well, there are plenty of screws holding the stainless so you could attach using longer screws. Look at the various rub rail inserts and find one with a shape that will lay over the stainless.
I''m guessing you just mean the bow area.
idk if the stainless is one piece and you don't want to cut. You could replace the stainless near the bow with a rubber insert of the same shape.

This is what I have been wondering about. But a nervous nelly about removing screws and replacing with same diameter and thread but longer to hold down the necessary length of ANYthing - even split garden hose. Or maybe a thin piece of wood that would bend (no steamer have I). ANYthing.

thanks for supporting an idea I was scared about

 

[w&w]

Don't go too crazy with inspecting it. While there is merit to a chain being more durable, the primary reason for chain is help the anchor set (and stay set) better. All rope will be just fine - many, many boaters use rope only. Tip: If you aren't doing this already, launch and retrieve the anchor OVER the bowrail. This allows you to essentially use the bowrail as a poor man's anchor roller (it can work if the chain is short, too). The big benefit is that it allows you stand back from the edge and stand up straight. You'll need to lean over to do the initial launch and final retrieve, but even that is easier than under the rail. You can sort of do the same thing using the rubrail, but it's even easier using the rubrail.

Skunk - great idea! A length of vinyl/rubber hose that is cut in half lengthwise would do it.

Thanks for the clarification of the purpose of the chain.

I think I have pulled it up over the rail, but did not launch it so. I will look into that method. And it will be easier to protect the rail with even a towel or split a vinyl chafe guard.

good ideas. thanks.