Rub Rail

Mudwasp

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Hi All,

I wanted to give a shout out to Mark 508-897-8339 at Barbour / Integrity Marine for his help in getting me a new Navy Blue rub rail for my 89 Overnighter 20. After much dead end internet research and even some incorrect guidance directly from Grady White, I found an old 2012 post by Enough Already on this forum which pointed me in the right direction. I have received the new rail and it IS, in fact, the correct original replacement rail, stiffener and round insert!! Mark was very helpful and my rail arrived less than a week from placing my order. Price was not much more than a generic rail kit which are not available in the original color and profile.

Thank you?
 

Ky Grady

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Nice to know Mudwasp, especially for the guys with the older Grady's that are re-doing them. Mine is in fair shape for now, but good to have options.

I see you're a new member and your first post. Welcome!

If you have pics of you rub rail project, by all means post up. We like to see project pics.
 

Mudwasp

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Nice to know Mudwasp, especially for the guys with the older Grady's that are re-doing them. Mine is in fair shape for now, but good to have options.

I see you're a new member and your first post. Welcome!

If you have pics of you rub rail project, by all means post up. We like to see project pics.

Thank you and will do. Hopefully will be getting going on the project in a few weeks.

This is a continuation of a project started last year. I bought the boat a few years ago. It had been severely neglected but had also been repowered with a Honda 4-stroke so between that and the fact that it was a GW......certainly worth the investment. I have cleaned it up and been running it but have more work to go!
When they repowered it, they had to remove one of the 2 batteries to reduce the weight on the stern to keep the scuppers and drains at the proper level vs the water line. I am adding a 3000 watt inverter so I wanted to go back up to 2 batteries. Rather than raise the scuppers I decided shortening the fuel tank (down to 60 gallon (don’t need 80 with the Honda)) and relocating the batteries to in front of the gas tank (under the wheelhouse) was a better solution. I spoke with GW and got their blessing on my idea and started the project last year.

Most of the heavy work is done but, as with any boat project, it turned in to more than I had hoped or expected! The remaining finish list includes: new stainless scuppers, new stainless aft deck drains, new batteries w/mounting-cables-inverter & wiring, new, fuel/vent/filler lines, new bilge paint, new Dynaplate bonding, new deck wash-down pump, new Atlantic Towers hard top, a small cosmetic fiberglass repair (left over from the previous owner) and of course.....the rub rail.

I am certainly willing to post pics if there is interest.

Also, always welcome ideas and product recommendations from other folks who have done similar projects.

BTW.....highly recommended bestboatwire.com for excellent wiring products, price and service. I try to buy from local marinas whenever I can but it is impossible for them to stock all the different wire sizes/lengths and accessories that everyone needs. I also found that most around me didn’t stock tinned wire (maybe because I am in a freshwater/lakes area?). bbw.com is the best one-stop wiring vendor I have found.
 

Mudwasp

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Finally made time to get started! Old rail is off. Started getting Atlantic Tower top in place. Glad I started this early because ended up needing to make a hardware kit swap so, I have been working with them on that. They have been great! In the mean time I have begun working on the starboard bow fiberglass damage that I inherited with the boat. I have also been working on lighting/wiring while waiting for parts/etc. Have some pics below................

Damage doesn't look too bad in this pic. because I had put a little paint on it to hide it. That will be getting stripped off so some reshaping can be completed and the new rub rail gets its smooth contour line back
Top Front.JPG

Side view. Just figuring some angles.......
Top side veiw.JPG

Stern view of top.......
top stern.JPG

Original (80 gallon) aluminum gas tank cut down (to 60 gallons) with all new lines. Tank is coated with etching primer and epoxy bilge paint. The rear of the tank sits in the same position as the original. The 20 gallons were cut off the forward section to allow room for the batteries to be mounted under the wheelhouse.
Gas Tank.jpg

This shows the wheelhouse hatch tipped open to show the new battery mount. The gas tank ends just behind the rear edge of the hatch opening
Battery Box.jpg

This is a rotated view (left edge of this pic is the bottom edge of the pic above) You can just see the wall of the gas tank compartment on the left. Battery trays are set in place.
Battery Trays.jpg

Pics of LED below deck service lights installed to make checkpoints easy to view at a glance
Lit Batt Trays.jpg Lit Fuel Tank Hatch.jpg
Starboard Stern Compartment.jpg Port Stern Compartment.jpg

More to come..................
 
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leeccoll

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Agreed, wow significant work there Mudwasp!!
 

CJ7Rob

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I have the same boat, I like the under deck lighting idea. I also like that top, what does Atlantic Towers get for something like that? thx
 

Mudwasp

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I have the same boat, I like the under deck lighting idea. I also like that top, what does Atlantic Towers get for something like that? thx
A little pricey at around $4000 but, this is the perfect boat for what I do. I like the layout, size and vintage. With all the work I have done to-date and all of the work I plan to do coupled with fact that it had been re-powered with the Honda, it was worth the investment to me. I priced out a lot of options including building my own with my friend that owns a fab shop and this was the best/most cost effective deal. They also make the exact same top frame with a Sunbrella top instead of the fiberglass hard top that I picked. The canvas is less expensive and is still a very nice top. I saw one on a Seafarer that I looked at last year which is what made me "pull the trigger" on my hard top. I had them add the canvas rail along the inner edge of the frame to make the windshield and side curtains easier for the canvas shop when I get to that point. Go to their website and check it out. They have a photo gallery showing installed tops that you can search/sort by boat make/model. You can also talk or email with Shelly Golden. Very helpful. Tell her what boat you have and what you want to do and they have likely already done it and are happy to do it again. Finally, I'm pretty sure they have price specials during boat show season.
 

CJ7Rob

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A little pricey at around $4000 but, this is the perfect boat for what I do. I like the layout, size and vintage. With all the work I have done to-date and all of the work I plan to do coupled with fact that it had been re-powered with the Honda, it was worth the investment to me. I priced out a lot of options including building my own with my friend that owns a fab shop and this was the best/most cost effective deal. They also make the exact same top frame with a Sunbrella top instead of the fiberglass hard top that I picked. The canvas is less expensive and is still a very nice top. I saw one on a Seafarer that I looked at last year which is what made me "pull the trigger" on my hard top. I had them add the canvas rail along the inner edge of the frame to make the windshield and side curtains easier for the canvas shop when I get to that point. Go to their website and check it out. They have a photo gallery showing installed tops that you can search/sort by boat make/model. You can also talk or email with Shelly Golden. Very helpful. Tell her what boat you have and what you want to do and they have likely already done it and are happy to do it again. Finally, I'm pretty sure they have price specials during boat show season.

Thanks good to know, I was looking at their arches too
 

Mudwasp

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A little more progress while I wait for the rest of my top hardware.......

Below are the deck drains. I really wanted to use stainless since the sun beats up the plastic pretty bad over time. I had trouble finding the correct OD to fit into the contour of the deck. These are Atwoods that I turned down on my buddy’s lathe to make them fit properly


FACCFFBA-E85B-4E5F-A0CD-7E41C501A3A2.jpeg
61A100CD-9A6A-47B5-BC7F-BB00F773138F.jpeg

Pics of the piping to the scuppers.......
D115B71A-6FAA-4CE1-9FBE-47242ED9E5B2.jpeg

5D0E9546-83A3-45F6-810D-D76A888169D9.jpeg

Washdown pump plumbing........
DBECAE97-6EC6-4E8B-B0D5-A0450D47CFC3.jpeg

Recessed mount hose connection point and power switch for washdown pump ........
BF3F59FA-2D2B-475F-A641-B58F28F5A90A.jpeg
 

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CJ7Rob

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Yea that looks super clean, you have washdown pump on port side? Also you happen to have Attwood part# on those deck drains? I might have to do the same eventually, Thanks
 

Mudwasp

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Yea that looks super clean, you have washdown pump on port side? Also you happen to have Attwood part# on those deck drains? I might have to do the same eventually, Thanks
Sorry I missed your question. Yes, pump is in the port side. I cannot for the life of me figure out where I bought those Attwood drains and even after searching, can’t even find them online. We have a local mom and pop marina that has stock that goes back 30+ years so I’m wondering if I picked them up there and maybe they are discontinued?? I didn’t have to turn them down much. If I find a part number I will post it for sure.
 

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Hi All,

I wanted to give a shout out to Mark 508-897-8339 at Barbour / Integrity Marine for his help in getting me a new Navy Blue rub rail for my 89 Overnighter 20. After much dead end internet research and even some incorrect guidance directly from Grady White, I found an old 2012 post by Enough Already on this forum which pointed me in the right direction. I have received the new rail and it IS, in fact, the correct original replacement rail, stiffener and round insert!! Mark was very helpful and my rail arrived less than a week from placing my order. Price was not much more than a generic rail kit which are not available in the original color and profile.

Thank you?
Mudwasp, would you happen top know the size or model# rubrail and insert that Integrity marine gave you. My fiberglass guy says the original rubrail and insert is not made anymore and gave me a white insert over the navy blue rubrail, and it looks like a$$. I know this is an older post but any help you can give me would be much appreciated.
 

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