Running Offshore w/Panda Generator On

[grady33]

When I bought my 330 Express last year, I was told it wasn't a good idea to run the generator when on a plain. Trolling was OK. My 2006 330 Express has a 4200 Panda Generator so I contacted Grady White Customer Service to ask. This is the reponse I received:

The Generator is OK to run while the boat is underway. This should not damage the unit while the boat is running. Here's a caution that is in your Owners Manual for the Generator. (page 8-8). Do not leave the generator seacock open while the boat is in motion and the generator is off. You can use the generator while the boat is moving. However, when the generator is shut down the intake seacock should be closed immediately. If the seacock remains open, excessive seawater may be forced into the generator cooling system causing water to back up into the exhaust manifold.

So apparently it is OK to run the Generator. Has anyone experienced any problems with their panda generators because of this? Also, I'm getting ready to splash the boat for the season. We changed the generator oil and filter when we winterized and will be replacing the impeller once we get the boat in the water. I'm nearing 500 hours on the generator and I'm thinking it probably needs a valve adjustment.

I contacted James Gagnon, Service Manager for Fischer Panda Generators USA (service@fischerpanda.com) and he sent me a one page pdf with directions. I'm enclosing the wording below. Has anyone attempted this? Doesn't look that difficult for a DIY. Any other maintenance I should watch for with these diesel generators?

Thanks,
David

Valve setting:

Check that the decompression device is in operating position ( pin on 9 o’clock ). Set piston on TDC compression stroke. Use a 0,2 mm feeler gauge to control and reset the valve clearance of both valves. (Insert feeler gauge between valve stem and rocker arm). Open the lock nuts of the setting screws to reset clearance. Tighten the nuts while counterhold the setting screws with a screwdriver. Recheck clearance when finished.

Valve setting on installed engines:

Remove valve cover. Insert a crankhandle and rotate slowly to valve overlaping position. Remove crankhandle and check drive pin inside the crankhandle guide => vertical position ! Insert crankhandle once again ad turn around ½ rotation ( drive pin = vertical position again ! ) Check and reset the valves.

 

[NikM820]

I run mine all the time while underway, no issues. The maintenance is easy and should be no problems for you.
Nick

 

[wspitler]

Just don't run on a plane with the seacock open and the generator shut down. I run on a plane with it running all the time. Valve adjustments aren't rocket science, but access is not easy.

 

[grady33]

Thanks. When we bought the boat it had a litte over 430 hours on the generator. I assume a valve adjustment was done at the 100 hour service. Were going to attempt one this spring sometime. Does anyone know where the oil filter is on the 4200?

 

[wspitler]

There isn't an oil filter, it a simple screen and is probably fine if the oil is clean. The parts breakdown will show you how to get to it.

 

[grady33]

Thanks for the help guys. Why wouldn't there be a oil filter? Is this common?

 

[wspitler]

Not too many small engines such as this one cylinder have a dedicated oil filter. Lawn mowers etc. I guess they are less likely to get the oil contaminated with small particles between oil changes. The screen takes care of larger particles. Good question though.

 

[grady33]

Thanks Bill. Sunds like we have a similar boat. Spoke to a Yamaha factory guy and told him that at some point I would like to upgrade engines to 300. Told me the 250s I have now are great engines and have had no problems over the years. 300s would def give me more quick pick up power and better fuel burn. Not doing anything now but was good to here what he had to say. Have you had any issues with your 250s?

 

[NikM820]

Coconut a member on here and a friend of mine went from the 225 to 300 and has seen a huge difference. From the education I got from THT their "experts" say the 225s are more like 200hp each and the 250s are more like 270 hp. Going from the 250 to 300 you would prob not see much deference other than cool factor, and we both know they are sexy :mrgreen: A lot of their experts also say the f250 is one of the best engines yamaha made in the F series, but I also own 2 so my opinion is bias :dance

 

[wspitler]

Grady28, I had a corrosion problem on my port LF250 with less than 400 hours. I bought the boat used in 2011 with about 250 hours. It ran great, but I discovered an oil leak down the side and took off the prop to troubleshoot and noticed a piece of loose cast aluminum metal in the exhaust behind the prop shaft support that was too big to come out of the exhaust. Turns out it was a piece of the exhaust tuner that had corroded off and fallen down into the exhaust. It was still under warranty and the oil leak was from corrosion around the oil pan. I only lost a small trickle of oil and compression on all cylinders was and remains good. The fix cost Yamaha, not me, but required the head to come off, new oil pan, etc. We inspected the starboard engine and it appeared to be fine, no corrosion on the tuner or around the oil pan. Only appeared to be problem on the port engine. I bought the boat used so I can't vouch for the flushing regimen before me. I'll reinspect next water pump replacement. I think 300s might be better. I'm Ok with the 250s, but it sure isn't a speedy boat. I'd probably opt for 300s if I had to repower, although they are heavier.

 

[grady33]

Thanks. Corrosion problem on F250 say it isn't so. I sure hope it isn't related to the problems with the older 225s. I will need to make sure we inspect this the next time the water pumps are changed.