Rust stains
- Thread starter Whazzup
- Start date
Stainless steel stains "less" than other metals. It resists staining when exposed to air, but in those small gaps, water collects and air doesn't get to the metal... and then you get the rust weeping out. There are a myriad of products out there that will quickly and easily take that off. StarBrite makes one called... are you ready? Rust Stain Remover! But really, anything with oxalic acid or HCl will work fine. Iron Out, for example, which can be got at Home Depot.
You can learn a lot about what causes that type of corrosion by reading about "crevice corrosion".
https://www.corrosionclinic.com/types_of_corrosion/crevice_corrosion.htm
https://www.corrosionclinic.com/types_of_corrosion/crevice_corrosion.htm
Bar Keepers Friend works great too, also sold at Home Depot & grocery stores. If its got oxalic acid in it, it'll work on the rust stains.
Also keeps the ants away.
Also keeps the ants away.
I have Sonax wheel cleaner for my car. I think it works on oxidized metals. Would this be appropriate? Do the other products harm the gel coat?
Doc Stressor
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Any acidic rust remover will clean up the rust. The issue is keeping it from coming back. You will need to remove the grab rail by unbolting it from inside of the hull. This can be a real PITA. After cleaning up and drying the part and the bolts and removing the rust from the fiberglass, you need to make a water-tight bedding seal between the metal and the gelcoat when you replace the part. Whatever you use needs to maintain flexibility. 5200 is not a good choice. I've had the best luck with old fashion butyl tape, which you can get from an RV dealer and with BoatLife Lifeseal. You need to fill up the entire area in contact with the gelcoat or rust will continue to weep out.
If that is the case is this a warranty issue that I should have the dealer manage?
It's probably not a "true" warranty issue - the same way an oxidizing gelcoat is not a warranty issue. It probably falls more under a maintenance item. However, given it's only a year old, they may very well take care of it for you at no charge. It's certainly worth contacting them. My "guess" is that they'll just say "sure, no problem - we'll fix that". Whether or not they get Grady to cover the repair and reimburse them - may depend on how they word the warranty claim.
If you're close enough to the dealer, go for it. If it's inconvenient to get the boat to them, then I'd probably just take care of it myself.
If you're close enough to the dealer, go for it. If it's inconvenient to get the boat to them, then I'd probably just take care of it myself.
Doc Stressor
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You are seeing complaints about the same problem on many new boats these days, not just Gradys. Some think it has to do with a decline in the quality of 316 Stainless Steel that is used for marine hardware. There are different grades of 316 and a lot of the stuff coming from China is at the bottom end of the spectrum.
Grady has never done a particularly good job of bedding their hardware. But some of the stuff on my 2008 Seafarer just started to bleed rust 2 years ago. So maybe the stuff they used in the past was of better quality. I've gradually been bedding my hardware piece by piece as it starts to bleed. The grab rails have been the first to go. A few of the bow rail mounts are starting to go now. I'll probably remove the bow rail and fix it right when it cools down around here. I'm not looking forward to the job.
If I had a one-year-old boat I would certainly take it back to the dealer and bitch.
Grady has never done a particularly good job of bedding their hardware. But some of the stuff on my 2008 Seafarer just started to bleed rust 2 years ago. So maybe the stuff they used in the past was of better quality. I've gradually been bedding my hardware piece by piece as it starts to bleed. The grab rails have been the first to go. A few of the bow rail mounts are starting to go now. I'll probably remove the bow rail and fix it right when it cools down around here. I'm not looking forward to the job.
If I had a one-year-old boat I would certainly take it back to the dealer and bitch.
Thanks for your help. This is my first boat, and I expect to be moving up in the future.I assume these imperfections would impact future sales price, so I will definitely mention it to my dealer. They are 7 minutes from me by water, so easy to get to.
Try not to get your knickers in a wad before you talk to the dealer. There is not a builder around that can prevent crevice corrosion. Component design and mounting practices can reduce the number of crevices on a boat but any crevices with metal as one or both mating surfaces will generate corrosion if left to sit in a moist condition. Regardless of grade of stainless steel involved. Higher grade will resist corrosion longer but will generate corrosion eventually. Just read all you can about what is causing your condition so that you know more than the dude at the dealer does. Preparedness is power.
https://nace.org/resources/general-resources/corrosion-basics/group-1/crevice-corrosion
https://www.materials.sandvik/en/materials-center/corrosion/wet-corrosion/crevice-corrosion/
https://nace.org/resources/general-resources/corrosion-basics/group-1/crevice-corrosion
https://www.materials.sandvik/en/materials-center/corrosion/wet-corrosion/crevice-corrosion/
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Seconding the Barkeepers Friend. It looks like and works like the old fashioned Ajax or more modern Comet powdered cleanser and I use it with an old tooth brush to remove rust stains in cracks and crevices. I keep a container on board the Gulfstream ready to use when I have a moment, waiting for Commodore to come aboard.
Doc Stressor
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If you don't want to go through re-bedding, there is a temporary fix that will keep the bleeding from coming back for a year or maybe longer.
After cleaning up the rust, let everything dry for a few days. The seal around the edges of the metal where it comes in contact with the gel coat using a moderately adhesive sealant. I've used clear Boatlife Life Seal with pretty good results. Remove as much overflow as possible while it is still wet. Silicon doesn't work very well since it doesn't adhere much to the metal and lets water in.
After cleaning up the rust, let everything dry for a few days. The seal around the edges of the metal where it comes in contact with the gel coat using a moderately adhesive sealant. I've used clear Boatlife Life Seal with pretty good results. Remove as much overflow as possible while it is still wet. Silicon doesn't work very well since it doesn't adhere much to the metal and lets water in.
Whether this is normal or not I would not be happy with this. Like others said you may be able to keep this under control but the corrosion underneath the base of the rail will only get worse and continue to bleed through. My 2011 doesn't even have the slightest hint of rust. Being this is an entirely new hull replacing the 209, maybe this particular part which is also new could be easily traced to the supplier.