Sailfish Model Windlass Install Photo's?

[ROBERTH]

Anyone have any photos of your Sailfish with windlass layout?

Have been searching for some photo to see how the install works on this model boat. Assume all 25' and 27' Sailfish models are the same in regards to the bow pulpit and anchor locker setup.

I have found a couple of photo's that appear to have the windlass mounted directly on top of the pulpit at the very back still allowing access to the anchor locker hatch and with no modifications to the anchor locker hatch. But these photo's are mostly from the front to side at a distance, so not able to see the actual position and location of the windlass.

I am not interested in modifying the hatch where one would cut it in half and screw part down permanently, etc.

 

[Renovator]

Here's a couple of pics of mine, I removed the factory hatch and replaced it with the starboard material in Seafoam which matches the GW gelcoat pretty well. By doing so I was able to move it further back over the rode locker where it works better and save the original hatch cover if I need to re install it later. The new location is much better performance wise, I have 600' of rode and it stores fine.

I used a thin piece of Starboard to cover the old windlass hole. Mortise in the existing hinges and screw her down through the gutters.
Good luck with it.

 

[ROBERTH]

Thanks for the pics! That is not a bad look compared to some I have seen.

So in this setup, you have no way to open the hatch beside of the unit to clear a jamb right? DId you just put in screws or through bolts? It seems that since you put hinges on and I see the latch that it can be opened up? Just a little confused on that detail.

 

[Renovator]

To clear the occasional jamb, my locker has a hatch at the front of the cabin so it's easy to get to. The screws are through bolted where I could, others are just screwed through. I left the hinges on so it is easier to service the unit, remove screws, flip up and grease as needed. Fairly simple really, I did upgrade the wiring though from the factory set up. This unit is the Lewmar Freefall 1000, maybe overkill but works like a charm.

 

[ROBERTH]

That makes sense!

Thanks for the clearup! Looks very good. I like this one.

Anyone else care to share?

 

[ocnslr]

That is a beautiful installation above.

Here is the installation on our Islander 270:

Although not as far aft, we also have 600-ft of rode - but I had to go to 8-plait to get that in there. Also 30-ft of chain.

I ran dedicated breaker and wiring from the batteries to the helm area, then used the factory wiring from the helm to the bow. But our windlass is a lot smaller.

I also installed a chain stopper, and reinstalled the original cleat to the side of the windlass so the rode can be tied off. The need to secure the rode and not "ride to the windlass" is addressed by almost all windlass manufacturers in their instruction manuals.

 

[ROBERTH]

Nice! Do you have any stacking issues or does the 8 plait lay down without hassle? Asking more on that since it seems the more forward the windlass is installed the more stacking issues based upon what some others mentioned.

I do like the ease of install at the back end of the pulpit so I can still open the hatch and less modification, even though Renovator's looks great!

Intersting that you have two types of anchor's? Is the one on the pulpit for Mud bottom? Does it work in Sand? I have only used the Danforth type design like the one in the holder in your pic.

I notice you have bow cleats on both sides. Forget if I have them on mine. Will have to check this weekend. Can't they be used over the one on teh pulpit? However, that is a great idea too.

 

[ocnslr]

Nice! Do you have any stacking issues or does the 8 plait lay down without hassle? Asking more on that since it seems the more forward the windlass is installed the more stacking issues based upon what some others mentioned.

I do like the ease of install at the back end of the pulpit so I can still open the hatch and less modification, even though Renovator's looks great!

Intersting that you have two types of anchor's? Is the one on the pulpit for Mud bottom? Does it work in Sand? I have only used the Danforth type design like the one in the holder in your pic.

I notice you have bow cleats on both sides. Forget if I have them on mine. Will have to check this weekend. Can't they be used over the one on teh pulpit? However, that is a great idea too.

Quite correct that having more "fall" below the windlass is better, as is the wider(widest) section of the anchor locker. If we use up to 200-ft of rode, then no problem recovering without any stacking issues. If we have to use more (very rarely), then we can assist the stacking through either the access at the forward end of the V-berth, or through the anchor locker hatch on the bow. With your greater beam and length, your anchor locker is a bit larger and I would not expect you to have any issues. Most of us don't try to cram 600-ft of rode in there, either.

Please note that all these considerations are based on a horizontal windlass, not a vertical model. The verticals are definitely neater looking, but require a lot more "fall" due to the several directional changes made by the rode as it goes around the windlass and then has to turn 90* to go down into the locker.

The Danforth 12H is or second/backup anchor. I have too many years of experience to go anywhere without backup ground tackle. It can also be used as the 'offshore' anchor when you beach the boat, or at least bring it up into the shallows. There is a 200-ft rode plus chain and shackle under the aft port side of the V-berth for that anchor.

The Delta Fastset is a great all around anchor, and will penetrate a grassy bottom that the Danforth might skip over. They probably have about equal holding power in mud or sand, but the Delta is 22# and the 12H is 12#.

Use of the bow cleats is not good with the anchor and roller arrangement I have, as the rode would lead at an angle off the roller and likely chafe. Could pull the rode up from forward of the roller to a cleat, but that is a PITA.

The cleat on the pulpit had been mounted there on the centerline and had to be removed to make room for the windlass. It would have been in the direct line of the chain and rode if the windlass had been mounted as Renovator did, as it would have been a fouling hazard. Looking at the chocks on the sides of Renovator's pulpit, I would guess that he had a centerline cleat as well, as those chocks are set to lead to it.

I think I have addressed your questions.

Brian

 

[ROBERTH]

Yes, most definately. I feel like a sea sponge right now soaking up all this info! :shock:

 

[Renovator]

As ocnsir mentioned in his post, the 8 plait is the way to go for the rode if you really want to cram a lot in there and have it lay flat, but they sure are dang proud of it when you go to buy it!

 

[grady248]

Brian,

Do you happen to know the manufacturers/part for the Danforth holder and the chain stopper? Also, what did you use to protect the boat from the Danforth shank?

 

[ocnslr]

Brian,

Do you happen to know the manufacturers/part for the Danforth holder and the chain stopper? Also, what did you use to protect the boat from the Danforth shank?

Windline Rail Mount Holders PM-1 and PM-2, for horizontal or vertical rail respectively. https://windline.com/index.php?act=viewmodels&cat=17

That is simply a piece of reinforced hose, with a nylon cable tie (visible in the lower photo) holding it to the stanchion. Just have to lift the Danforth 12H vertically out of the bracket, and the hose, then connect the rode/chain with a shackle, and ready to use.

Brian

 

[ahill]

My 272 is mounted like ocnslr install. Stronger mounting point secured thru pulpit and deck with ss threaded rod.